Alexander Huber

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Alexander Huber
Alexander Huber (2009).jpg
Personal information
Born (1968-12-30) December 30, 1968 (age 50)
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight74 kg (163 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberFree climbing, mountaineering
Highest grade
Known for
Updated on 13 May 2013.

Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German climber and mountaineer. He became a professional mountaineer in 1997, and was one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers of the 2000s. While being an all-round climber, Huber is most famous for his bold free ascents of big walls, and his expeditions in the Karakoram, Antarctica, and Greenland.


Huber was born in Trostberg, Bavaria. He lives in Bavaria with his wife and children. He has a Masters in Physics.

When they were still young Alexander Huber and his brother Thomas Huber were taken into the mountains by their father, Thomas Huber, himself a noted climber known for early fast ascents of now classic climbs. Together with his brother Thomas, he became interested in extreme alpine climbing.

Huber was state-certified mountain and skiing guide in 1992. He studied physical meteorology, became a professional mountaineer in 1997, and was one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers of the 2000s.

The 1000 m wall of El Capitan, where Huber bolted five new routes
Lavaredo's western peak, where Huber bolted and climbed Bellavista, world's first 8c multi-pitch route, and Pan Aroma (8c)

Notable climbs[edit]

  • 1992 First Ascent of Om (5.14d/9a), Triangel / Bavaria
  • 1994 First Ascent of Weisse Rose (5.14d/9a), Schleierwasserfall / Austria
  • 1995 Free Ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite Valley
  • 1996 First ascent of Open Air (5.15a/9a+), Schleierwasserfall / Austria, the most difficult sport route of its time. It was initially graded as 9a, but recently found its second ascent by Adam Ondra, who upgraded it to 9a+ trying to fit to the "new school" grading situation.
  • 1997 Tsering Mosong, West Face of Latok II, 7108m, Karakoram, VII 5.10c A3, 2200 m: FA with Thomas Huber, Conrad Anker and Toni Gutsch[1]
  • 1998 Cho Oyu (8201m), Himalaya, Nepal
  • 1998 First Ascent of El Nino (5.13c), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 1998 First Ascent of Free Rider (5.12d), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 2000 First Ascent of Golden Gate (5.13a), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 2001 First Ascent of Bellavista, (5.14b/8c), Lavaredo's western peak, Dolomites, Italy
  • 2001 First Ascent of El Corazon, (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 2002 Free Solo Ascent of the Direttissima (500m, 5.12a) of Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy
  • 2002 Cerro Torre, Cerro Standhardt and Fitz Roy in Patagonia
  • 2003 First Redpoint Ascent of Free Zodiac (5.13d), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 2004 Free Solo Ascent of the Kommunist (5.14a), Austria[2]
  • 2004 Speed Record on the Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 1:51:34[3]
  • 2005 First Redpoint Ascent of Voie Petit (5.13d/8b) on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc[4]
  • 2006 First Ascent of Golden Eagle (5.11/A1), Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia
  • 2006 Free Solo Ascent of the South Face (5.11a) of Dent du Géant (4013m), Mont Blanc
  • 2007 First Ascent of Pan Aroma (5.14b/8c), Lavaredo's western peak, Dolomites, Italy[5]
  • 2007 Speed Record on The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 2:45:45, till 07/2008[6]
  • 2008 First Ascent of the Westface (5.11/A1) of "La Silla", Patagonia
  • 2008 With an ascent of Torre Egger, Alexander finished the collection of the three Torres: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia
  • 2008 First Ascent of Sansara and Feuertaufe, both 5.14a, two alpine multi-pitch climbs in the Tyrolean Alps
  • 2008 First Free Solo Ascent of Grand Capucin (5.10), Mont Blanc
  • 2009 First Free Ascent with Thomas Huber of Eternal Flame, (5.13a), on Trango ("Nameless") Tower (6,239 m), Pakistan.[7][8]


  • Alexander Huber und Thomas Huber: The Wall. BLV, 2000
  • Alexander Huber: Yosemite. Ottobrunn : Bergverlag Rother, 2002
  • Alexander Huber und Willi Schwenkmeier: Drei Zinnen. Bergverlag Rother, 2003
  • Alexander Huber, Heinz Zach: Yosemite. Baton Wicks, London, 2003. Compilation of essays by important Yosemite rock climbers.


  • To the Limit (2007) − Speed climbing The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite.
  • Center of the Universe Climbing in Yosemite [9]

See also[edit]


  1. ^ Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas; Anker, Conrad; Gutsch, Toni (1998). "The West Face of Latok II: El Cap on top of Denali". American Alpine Journal. New York: American Alpine Club. 40 (72): 34–42. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
  2. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Huber Solos 5.14". Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  3. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Zodiac Record". Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  4. ^ Alexander Huber (1 December 2005). "Grand Capucin, Voie Petit". Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  5. ^ "Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites". 8 August 2007. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  6. ^ "The Nose speed record by Alexander and Thomas Huber". 18 October 2007. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  7. ^ "Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers". 1 October 2009. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  8. ^ Erik Lambert (1 October 2009). "Hubers Redpoint Eternal Flame". Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  9. ^ "Archived item". Archived from the original on 2009-11-15. Retrieved 2010-01-08.

External links[edit]