Alexander Huber

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Alexander Huber
Alexander Huber (2009).jpg
Personal information
NationalityGerman
Born (1968-12-30) December 30, 1968 (age 50)
Trostberg
Height176 cm (5 ft 9 in)
Weight74 kg (163 lb)
Websitewww.huberbuam.de
Climbing career
Type of climberFree climbing, mountaineering
Highest grade
Known for
Updated on 13 May 2013.

Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968), is a German climber and mountaineer. He became a professional mountaineer in 1997, and was one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers of the 2000s. While being an all-round climber, Huber is most famous for his bold free ascents of big walls, and his expeditions in the Karakoram, Antarctica, and Greenland.

Biography[edit]

Huber was born in Trostberg, Bavaria. He lives in Bavaria with his wife and children. He has a Masters in Physics.

When they were still young Alexander Huber and his brother Thomas Huber were taken into the mountains by their father, Thomas Huber, himself a noted climber known for early fast ascents of now classic climbs. Together with his brother Thomas, he became interested in extreme alpine climbing.

Huber was state-certified mountain and skiing guide in 1992. He studied physical meteorology, became a professional mountaineer in 1997, and was one of the most successful climbers and mountaineers of the 2000s.

The 1000 m wall of El Capitan, where Huber bolted five new routes
Lavaredo's western peak, where Huber bolted and climbed Bellavista, world's first 8c multi-pitch route, and Pan Aroma (8c)

Notable climbs[edit]

  • 1992 First Ascent of Om (5.14d/9a), Triangel / Bavaria
  • 1994 First Ascent of Weisse Rose (5.14d/9a), Schleierwasserfall / Austria
  • 1995 Free Ascent of the Salathé Wall (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite Valley
  • 1996 First ascent of Open Air (5.15a/9a+), Schleierwasserfall / Austria, the most difficult sport route of its time. It was initially graded as 9a, but recently found its second ascent by Adam Ondra, who upgraded it to 9a+ trying to fit to the "new school" grading situation.
  • 1997 Tsering Mosong, West Face of Latok II, 7108m, Karakoram, VII 5.10c A3, 2200 m: FA with Thomas Huber, Conrad Anker and Toni Gutsch[1]
  • 1998 Cho Oyu (8201m), Himalaya, Nepal
  • 1998 First Ascent of El Nino (5.13c), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 1998 First Ascent of Free Rider (5.12d), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 2000 First Ascent of Golden Gate (5.13a), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 2001 First Ascent of Bellavista, (5.14b/8c), Lavaredo's western peak, Dolomites, Italy
  • 2001 First Ascent of El Corazon, (5.13b), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 2002 Free Solo Ascent of the Direttissima (500m, 5.12a) of Cima Grande, Dolomites, Italy
  • 2002 Cerro Torre, Cerro Standhardt and Fitz Roy in Patagonia
  • 2003 First Redpoint Ascent of Free Zodiac (5.13d), El Capitan, Yosemite
  • 2004 Free Solo Ascent of the Kommunist (5.14a), Austria[2]
  • 2004 Speed Record on the Zodiac, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 1:51:34[3]
  • 2005 First Redpoint Ascent of Voie Petit (5.13d/8b) on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc[4]
  • 2006 First Ascent of Golden Eagle (5.11/A1), Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia
  • 2006 Free Solo Ascent of the South Face (5.11a) of Dent du Géant (4013m), Mont Blanc
  • 2007 First Ascent of Pan Aroma (5.14b/8c), Lavaredo's western peak, Dolomites, Italy[5]
  • 2007 Speed Record on The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite, CA, USA in 2:45:45, till 07/2008[6]
  • 2008 First Ascent of the Westface (5.11/A1) of "La Silla", Patagonia
  • 2008 With an ascent of Torre Egger, Alexander finished the collection of the three Torres: Cerro Torre, Torre Egger and Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia
  • 2008 First Ascent of Sansara and Feuertaufe, both 5.14a, two alpine multi-pitch climbs in the Tyrolean Alps
  • 2008 First Free Solo Ascent of Grand Capucin (5.10), Mont Blanc
  • 2009 First Free Ascent with Thomas Huber of Eternal Flame, (5.13a), on Trango ("Nameless") Tower (6,239 m), Pakistan.[7][8]

Literature[edit]

  • Alexander Huber und Thomas Huber: The Wall. BLV, 2000
  • Alexander Huber: Yosemite. Ottobrunn : Bergverlag Rother, 2002
  • Alexander Huber und Willi Schwenkmeier: Drei Zinnen. Bergverlag Rother, 2003
  • Alexander Huber, Heinz Zach: Yosemite. Baton Wicks, London, 2003. Compilation of essays by important Yosemite rock climbers.

Movies[edit]

  • To the Limit (2007) − Speed climbing The Nose, El Capitan, Yosemite.
  • Center of the Universe Climbing in Yosemite [9]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Huber, Alexander; Huber, Thomas; Anker, Conrad; Gutsch, Toni (1998). "The West Face of Latok II: El Cap on top of Denali". American Alpine Journal. New York: American Alpine Club. 40 (72): 34–42. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
  2. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Huber Solos 5.14". climbing.com. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  3. ^ Dougald MacDonald. "Zodiac Record". climbing.com. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  4. ^ Alexander Huber (1 December 2005). "Grand Capucin, Voie Petit". alpinist.com. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  5. ^ "Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites". planetmountain.com. 8 August 2007. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  6. ^ "The Nose speed record by Alexander and Thomas Huber". planetmountain.com. 18 October 2007. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  7. ^ "Eternal Flame, Nameless Tower, first free ascent by Huber brothers". planetmountain.com. 1 October 2009. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  8. ^ Erik Lambert (1 October 2009). "Hubers Redpoint Eternal Flame". alpinist.com. Retrieved 2 July 2013.
  9. ^ "Archived item". Archived from the original on 2009-11-15. Retrieved 2010-01-08.

External links[edit]