Api (mountain)

Coordinates: 30°00′15″N 80°56′00″E / 30.00417°N 80.93333°E / 30.00417; 80.93333
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Approached from the Mahakali Khola, the southern/western aspects of Api.
Highest point
Elevation7,132 m (23,399 ft)[1][2]
Prominence2,040 m (6,690 ft)[1]
Coordinates30°00′15″N 80°56′00″E / 30.00417°N 80.93333°E / 30.00417; 80.93333
Api is located in Sudurpashchim Province
Location in Nepal
Api is located in Nepal
Api (Nepal)
DistrictDarchula District
Parent rangeYoka Pahar Subsection, Gurans Himal, Himalayas
First ascent10 May 1960 by K. Hirabayashi, Gyaltsen Norbu
Easiest routerock/snow/ice climb
Api south face

Api is the highest peak in the Yoka Pahar Section of Gurans Himal, part of the Himalayas in the extreme northwest corner of Nepal, near the border with Tibet.[3][failed verification] It is a little-known peak in a rarely visited part of the Himalayas, but it rises dramatically over the low surrounding terrain.[citation needed]

Notable features[edit]

Although low in elevation among the major mountains of Nepal, Api is exceptional in its rise above local terrain; the surrounding valleys are significantly lower than those surrounding most higher Himalayan peaks.[4][failed verification]

Api peak's south face rises 3,300 metres (10,830 ft) above its base.[5]

Climbing history[edit]

The Api region was visited by Westerners in 1899, 1905 and 1936, but the peak was not attempted until 1953 on a visit by W. H. Murray a Scottish Mountaineer with John Tyson. This attempt was unsuccessful, as was another, by Italians, in 1954 which resulted in the death of two expedition members.[6]

The first ascent of Api occurred in 1960. The Doshisha Alpine Society of Japan successfully completed the Northwest Face route attempted by the 1954 party.[6][7]

In 1980, a British Army Mountaineering Association expedition made an attempt to climb the peak by the south face reaching within a few hundred metres of the summit.[5]

On 24 December 1983, Polish climbers Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Bieluń made the first winter ascent. Bieluń had reached the summit first alone but did not return to camp.[7]

The Himalayan Index lists three more ascents of the peak, in 1978, 1996, and 2001.[2]


  1. ^ a b "Ultra-prominent peaks of Nepal". peaklist.org. Archived from the original on 25 December 2008. Retrieved 6 January 2009.
  2. ^ a b "Himalayan Index". Alpine Club. Retrieved 2009-12-24.
  3. ^ Carter, H. Adams (1986). "Classification of the Himalaya". The Himalayan Journal. The Himalayan Club. 42. Retrieved 17 April 2019.
  4. ^ "DEM files for the Himalaya (Corrected versions of SRTM data)". viewfinderpanoramas.org. Archived from the original on 10 December 2009. Retrieved 24 December 2009.
  5. ^ a b Agnew, Crispin (1981). "Soldiers on Api" (PDF). Alpine Journal: 167–171. Retrieved 17 April 2019.
  6. ^ a b Neate, Jill (January 1990). High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks. Mountaineers Books. ISBN 0-89886-238-8.
  7. ^ a b "Api, Winter Ascent and Tragedy". Climbs and Expeditions, 1983. American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club: 262–263. 1984. Retrieved 15 June 2020.