Ashima Shiraishi

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Ashima Shiraishi
Personal information
Nationality American/Japanese
Born (2001-04-03) April 3, 2001 (age 16)
New York, NY
Occupation Student and Rock Climber
Climbing career
Type of climber Bouldering, Sport Climbing
Highest grade

Ashima Shiraishi (born April 3, 2001 in New York, NY) is an American rock climber. She is known for being one of the strongest female climbers of all time. She started climbing at age six at Rat Rock in Central Park. Even though she is a professional climber, her only "acclaim to fame" with her friends is that Ansel Elgort climbs at one of her home gyms: The Cliffs of LIC. When she started climbing competitively, she was coached by professional climber Obe Carrion, but he no longer coaches her because he moved away from New York.[1]

The New York Times has called her a "bouldering phenom".[2] Outside Magazine has described her as a "young crusher".[3] At age 13 she became the second[4][5] female, and youngest person, to climb a sport route with a difficulty grade of 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+) .[6] In 2016, she got the first female ascent of the Dai Koyamada V15 "Horizon" in Mount Hiei, Japan and became the first female climber to climb the grade.[7]

Biography[edit]

Ashima was born in New York, NY on April 3 of 2001. Her parents, Tsuya and Hisatoshi Shiraishi, immigrated from Japan in 1978 to New York, NY. Her father, Hisatoshi Shiraishi was trained as a dancer in Butoh.[8] When Ashima was 6, her parents took her to Central Park and she discovered Rat Rock where she first started to rock climb and later started climbing at Brooklyn Boulders in Gowanus, Brooklyn.[1]

Ashima first made a name for herself by bouldering at a very high level at a very young age. At age 8, Ashima climbed the classic Hueco Tanks boulder problem Power of Silence (V10). At age 9, she also climbed Chablanke (V11/12) and Roger in the Shower (V11) in Hueco Tanks, Texas, and several other difficult boulders. At age 10, Ashima climbed Ethan Pringle's notorious Crown of Aragorn (V13) also in Hueco Tanks. She is the youngest person ever to climb this grade, and one of very few female climbers to climb a confirmed V13.[9]

Ashima has also excelled in sport climbing. At age 11 in October of 2012, she climbed Southern Smoke at the Red River Gorge, a grade 5.14c (8c+) sport climb. Ashima is the youngest person to climb a sport climbing route of this difficulty.[10]

In 2013, Ashima continued to excel at both bouldering and sport climbing, adding 5.14a at Céüse in France,[11] then two more V13s with One Summer in Paradise[12] and Automator,[13] and finally two 5.14c's (24 Karats and 50 Words for Pump)[14] to her already impressive ticklist. In July 2014, she climbed what might be her first V14, Golden Shadow; however, there is a suggestion Golden Shadow is V13 or V13/V14.[15] She was the second officially recorded female climber (after Tomoko Ogawa) to successfully climb a V14 problem.[16] On the first day of 2015, Ashima climbed her second V14 (V13/V14), The Swarm, claiming the first female top-out of the problem.[17][18][19]

At age 13, Ashima climbed her first 5.14d/9a, 'Open Your Mind Direct R1' in Santa Linya. The route was thought to be harder while Ashima was attempting it, for she had broken hold near the top.[20] Although, on Christmas Day of 2015, Edu Márin Garcia climbed the route past Ashima's end point to the second top and confirmed Ashima's route as a 5.14d/9a.[21]

In the same climbing trip Ashima climbed 'Ciudad de Dios', making her the youngest athlete to climb a 5.14d/5.15a (9a/9a+) and the second female climber to climb at this level.[6][20][22] The route has been climbed by 6 other athletes, but there is still no definite consensus on whether the grade is 5.14d or 5.15a.

In 2015 Ashima won the IFSC World Youth Championships for both lead and bouldering in the Female Youth B category.

In 2016, she became the first female climber to climb an 8C/V15 boulder problem, which she did at Mount Hiei in Japan.[7]

In 2016 Ashima won the IFSC World Youth Championships for both lead and bouldering in the Female Youth B category in Guangzhou, China.[23]

In 2017, she was the winner in the female sport category at the USA Climbing Sport & Speed Open National Championships (SCS nationals) held in Denver, Colorado, and placed second at the USA Climbing Bouldering Nationals (ABS nationals) to 10-time champion Alex Puccio.[24]

She is sponsored by Evolv, The North Face, Clif Bar, Petzl, Coca Cola Japan, All Nippon Airways and Nikon.

Alongside fellow American climber Kai Lightner, she is featured in the short film "Young Guns" in Reel Rock 11 (by Sender Films). The film covers her successful attempt of the 8C (V15) climb in Japan in 2016.

Notable ascents[edit]

Bouldering[edit]

Lead climbing[edit]

  • 9a or 9a+ / 5.14d or 5.15a (grade of route that have not reached consensus[6][20][22])
    • Ciudad de Dios: 9a/9a+ (5.14d/5.15a). First Female Ascent, March 23, 2015 (Santa Linya, Spain).[6]
  • 9a/5.14d
    • Open Your Mind Direct R1: 9a (5.14d). First Female Ascent, March 17, 2015 (Santa Linya, Spain)[20][21][22]
  • 8c+/5.14c
    • Southern Smoke: 5.14c (8c+). September 2012 (Red River Gorge, USA)[28]
    • Lucifer: 5.14c (8c+). September 2012 (Red River Gorge, USA)[28]
    • 24 Karats: 5.14c (8c+). October 2013 (Red River Gorge, USA)[29]
    • 50 Words for Pump: 5.14c (8c+). October 2013 (Red River Gorge, USA)[29]
    • La Fabela: 8c+ (5.14c). First Female Ascent, March 2014 (Santa Linya, Lleida)[30]
  • 8c/5.14b
    • Digital system: 8c (5.14b). March 2014 (Santa Linya, Lleida)[30]
    • Rollito Sharma extension: 8c (5.14b). March 2014 (Santa Linya, Lleida)[30]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b Bosman, Julie (2012-05-12). "Ashima Shiraishi, 11, Conquers Difficult Bouldering Climbs". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2015-04-21. 
  2. ^ Doyne, Shannon (2012-04-12). "Bouldering Phenom". New York Times. Retrieved 2013-04-16. 
  3. ^ Roy, Adam (2011-07-09). "Science of Young Crushers". Outside. Retrieved 2013-04-16. 
  4. ^ MacDonald, Dougald (May 11, 2005). "Josune Climbs Possible 5.15". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved March 25, 2016. 
  5. ^ "Josune Bereziartu repeats a 9a+". UKClimbing.com. UK Climbing. May 2005. Retrieved March 25, 2016. 
  6. ^ a b c d "Ciudad de Dios, 9a/+, by Ashima". UK Climbing. 23 March 2015. Retrieved 7 April 2015. 
  7. ^ a b Planetmountain (22 March 2016). "Ashima Shiraishi claims first female 8C boulder with Horizon". 
  8. ^ Paumgarten, Nick. "The Wall Dancer: Ashima Shiraishi’s route to the top". The New Yorker. Condé Nast (2016-01-11). 
  9. ^ Fox, Amanda (2012-03-21). "10 year old repeats crown of aragorn". Climbing. Retrieved 2013-04-16. 
  10. ^ Climbing, DOM (2012-10-26). "Ashima Sends Southern Smoke". DPM Climbing. Retrieved 2013-04-16. 
  11. ^ Larson, Jens (2013-07-26). "Céüse 8b+ by Mirko (12) and Ashima (11)". 8a.nu. Retrieved 2013-10-25. 
  12. ^ Parker, Chris (2013-08-15). "12-Year-Olds Mirko Caballero and Ashima Shiraishi Send V13 in Magic Wood". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2013-10-25. 
  13. ^ Kahn, Chris (2013-09-25). "Ashima sends Automator V13/8B". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2013-10-25. 
  14. ^ Hewitt, Andrew (2013-10-07). "Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 2013-10-25. 
  15. ^ "Golden Shadow". 27 Crags. 
  16. ^ Leslie Hittmeier (11 July 2014). "Ashima Shiraishi Becomes Second Female To Climb V14". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 11 July 2014. 
  17. ^ "The Swarm". 27 Crags. 
  18. ^ "Ashima Shiraishi and Paige Claassen Join The North Face". 2015-01-29. Retrieved 2015-02-09. 
  19. ^ "Ashima Shiraishi Earns FFA of The Swarm". cruxcrush.com. 2015-01-01. Retrieved 2015-02-09. 
  20. ^ a b c d "Shiraishi Becomes First Female to Climb a 5.15". Outside. 18 March 2015. Retrieved 24 March 2015. 
  21. ^ a b Fernández, Isaac. "Edu Marín hace 'Open your mind direct' 9a+: "2015 ha sido uno de mis mejores años"". Desnivel.com. Retrieved 1 February 2016. 
  22. ^ a b c "Reaching new heights: girl ascends to rock-climbing royalty – at only 13". Guardian. 22 March 2015. Retrieved 24 March 2015. 
  23. ^ "BOULDERING: Double Victories for Females". Retrieved 2016-11-15. 
  24. ^ Yap, Audrey Cleo. "15-Year-Old Ashima Shiraishi Nabs First Place at USA Climbing Championships". nbcnews.com. NBC News. Retrieved 2017-03-19. 
  25. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n http://onbouldering.com/8b-senders-ladies-club/
  26. ^ http://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs/sleepy-rave
  27. ^ http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/3rd-v13-ashima-shiraishi
  28. ^ a b "Red River Gorge: Adam Ondra 9a flash and Ashima Shiraishi 8c+ redpoint - Planetmountain.com, climbing, News, mountaineering". www.planetmountain.com. Retrieved 2015-04-08. 
  29. ^ a b "Ashima Shiraishi Makes First Female Ascent of 24 Karats (5.14c) in the Red". www.rockandice.com. Retrieved 2015-04-08. 
  30. ^ a b c Cusidó, Oscar (2014-07-26). "Ashima Shiraishi, la niña araña" (in Spanish). Am14. Retrieved 2014-07-30. 

External links[edit]