Boyan Petrov, 2017
|Born||February 7, 1973|
|Disappeared||May 5, 2018 (aged 45)|
Nyalam County, Tibet, China
|Status||Missing for 1 year, 5 months and 18 days|
|Known for||Climbing 10 out of the 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen|
At the time of his disappearance he had climbed 10 out of the 14 eight-thousanders, all without supplementary oxygen. As of October 2019, this achievement tied him with Atanas Skatov as the Bulgarian altitude climber with the highest number of successful ascents of peaks over 8000 meters. He was the first Bulgarian to summit four of those mountains: Gasherbrum I (2009), Kangchenjunga (2014), K2 (2014) and Manaslu (2015).
On 20 May 2014 he became the first Bulgarian to climb the third highest peak on Earth Kangchenjunga (8586m), as well as the first diabetic to ascend to such an altitude and without oxygen. On 23 July he climbed Broad Peak (8047m). On 31 July 2014 he became the first Bulgarian to climb the second highest peak on the planet K2 (8611m), which also made him the 35th person to climb three eight-thousanders in less than 100 days. His double climb – on Broad Peak and K2 - in 8 days, is also a world record. For these remarkable successes the Bulgarian climber was greeted with a video message by mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner. His documentary film about his climbs "3x8000" was broadcast on Bulgarian National Television in December 2014. He reached the summit of Mt. Dhaulagiri (8167m) on 29 September 2017 at 01:00 pm without the help of supplementary oxygen.
Boyan Petrov was a cancer survivor and a diabetic. In 2008 he fell while climbing in the Alps and broke his leg. During the descent of Gasherbrum II in 2009 he fell in a glacial crevasse and was saved by a group of Spanish climbers. In 2013 Petrov suffered another leg fracture due to a car accident. Despite his injuries, in the following year he achieved a hat-trick by successfully climbing Kangchenjunga, Broad Peak, and K2 with internal fixators in this leg. After the descent of K2, he suffered a serious hypoglycemic crisis while in base camp, lost consciousness and was able to recover with the help of Polish climbers.
This section needs expansion. You can help by adding to it. (May 2018)
Petrov was declared missing on 5 May 2018 while climbing Shishapangma. The search for him was discontinued on 16 May. According to other climbers, he may have fallen into a crevasse on the way to the top.
|2001||Broad Peak||8047 m||Karakoram||Pakistan||Altitude reached 7300 m|
|2003||Lenin Peak||7134 m||Pamir||Kyrgyzstan|
|2004||Denali||6195 m||American Cordillera||USA|
|2005||K2||8611 m||Karakoram||Pakistan||Altitude reached 8200 m|
|2007||Khan Tengri||6995 m||Tian Shan||Kazakhstan|
|2009||Gasherbrum I||8080 m||Karakoram||Pakistan||First Bulgarian ascent. Without oxygen|
|2009||Gasherbrum II||8035 m||Karakoram||Pakistan||Altitude reached 8030 m|
|2010||Peak Korzhenevskaya||7105 m||Pamir||Tajikistan|
|2010||Ismoil Somoni Peak||7495 m||Pamir||Tajikistan|
|2014||Kangchenjunga||8586 m||Himalayas||Nepal||First Bulgarian ascent. Without oxygen|
|2014||Broad Peak||8047 m||Karakoram||Pakistan||Without oxygen|
|2014||K2||8611 m||Karakoram||Pakistan||First Bulgarian ascent. Without oxygen|
|2015||Manaslu||8163 m||Himalayas||Nepal||First Bulgarian ascent. Without oxygen|
|2016||Annapurna I||8091 m||Himalayas||Nepal||Without oxygen|
|2016||Makalu||8485 m||Himalayas||Nepal||Without oxygen|
|2016||Nanga Parbat||8126 m||Himalayas||Pakistan||Without oxygen|
|2017||Gasherbrum II||8035 m||Karakoram||Pakistan||Without oxygen|
|2017||Dhaulagiri||8167 m||Himalayas||Nepal||Without oxygen|
|2018||Shishapangma||8027 m||Himalayas||China||Reached Camp 3 at 7,500 m before disappearing|
- "Край на операцията... Боян остава завинаги под Шиша Пангма! | Dnes.bg" (in Bulgarian). Retrieved 12 August 2018.
- Boyal Petrov, NMNHS
- Тайнствен глас водил Боян Петров към върха Archived 13 December 2014 at the Wayback Machine, Монитор
- Bulgarian Mountaineer Boyan Petrov Climbs Kangchenjunga Summit
- Boyan Petrov: The most successful summer of Bulgarian mountaineering, Bulgarian National Radio
- Боян Петров: Най-добрият алпинист е живият алпинист OFFNews
- БНТ излъчва втора част на филма „3x8000“
- БНТ излъчва филм за алпиниста Боян Петров
- "Bulgarian mountaineer Boyan Petrov summited Dhaulagiri without Oxygen". dreamwanderlust.com. 2 October 2017.
- Гергана Лабова, "Боян Петров: жив си, когато не се отказваш", www.gnezdoto.net, 2015, in Bulgarian. Retrieved 28-07-2016.
- Мара Калчева, "Боян Петров: Диабетик съм, но катеря осемхилядници!", www.blitz.bg, 28-05-2013, in Bulgarian. Retrieved 28-07-2016.
- Бойко Оков, "Покорителят на Гашербрум -1 и Гашербрум - 2 Боян Петров: Бях сам, спикел и щека на 30 метра от върха", www.verticalworld.net, 28-08-2009, in Bulgarian. Retrieved 28-07-2016.
- Бойко Оков, "Властелинът на осемхилядниците покорил К2 с 12 пирона в крака", www.blitz.bg, 17-08-2014, in Bulgarian. Retrieved 28-07-2016.
- Michał Bugno, "Dziękują Polakom za uratowanie człowieka na Broad Peak. "To bohaterstwo!", sport.wp.pl, 12-09-2014, in Polish. Retrieved 28-07-2016.
- Стефан Чолаков, "Боян Петров: Под К-2 имах криза заради кръвната захар" Archived 16 August 2016 at the Wayback Machine, "24 часа", 14-08-2014, in Bulgarian. Retrieved 28-07-2016.
- "The final report puts to rest all speculations surrounding the Boyan Petrov Search Operation", "Dream Wanderlust", 17.05.2018.
- "Boyan Petrov's Team: The Rescue Operation is Over". Novinite.xom. 16 May 2018. Retrieved 17 May 2018.
- CV of Boyan Petrov, National Museum of Natural History, Sofia, Official Site. Retrieved 24-05-2016.