Brioni (brand)

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Coordinates: 41°54′14″N 12°29′40″E / 41.9040134°N 12.4943797°E / 41.9040134; 12.4943797

Brioni
TypeSubsidiary
IndustryLuxury menswear
Founded1945; 76 years ago (1945)
FounderNazareno Fonticoli
Gaetano Savini
Headquarters,
Key people
Mehdi Benabadji (CEO)
Norbert Stumpfl (Creative Director)
OwnerKering
Websitewww.brioni.com

Brioni is an Italian menswear luxury house based in Rome and specialized in sartorial ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrance, and provides a tailor-made service (Bespoke).

Brioni was founded in Rome in 1945. In 1952, the brand organized the first menswear runway show in the modern history of fashion. The brand invented the trunk show and the Prêt Couture. Brioni opened the tailoring school Scuola di Alta Sartoria in Penne, Italia, in 1985. Brioni was acquired by the luxury group Kering in 2011. Mehdi Benabadji is the CEO of Brioni since December 2019, and Norbert Stumpfl the creative director since October 2018.

History[edit]

Peacock Revolution[edit]

The first Brioni store, a tailor menswear boutique, was established on Via Barberini 79 in Rome in 1945 by Nazareno Fonticoli and Gaetano Savini.[1] The name Brioni is a reference to the Italian Brionian Islands (now part of Croatia), a vacation destination for European jet-setters in the early twentieth century.[2]

Brioni was the first tailor for menswear to use bold colors and lighter material, introducing new silhouettes using slimmer shapes with natural shoulders.[1] In 1952, Brioni staged the first menswear fashion show in the modern history of fashion, inside the Sala Bianca at Palazzo Pitti in Florence, where the Peacock Revolution was introduced.[1] Brioni also invented the trunk show, during which the collections were presented directly in stores, allowing customers to personalize the garments with the Su Misura service (made-to-measure).[3] Brioni promoted the “total look”, manufacturing suits, hats, ties, shirts and shoes. In 1959, a production plant was opened in Penne, Abruzzo, birth town of Nazareno Fonticoli. Called Brioni Roman Style, the state-of-the-art factory introduced the concept of Prêt Couture, or ready-to-wear Haute Couture that sealed the international rise of the brand.[1]

During the 1950s, Brioni organized fashion shows in 9 US cities[4] which launched the distribution of the brand in the USA.[5] Brioni raised interests from celebrities, heads of state and business leaders. American movie stars of the 1950s such as Clark Gable, John Wayne and Cary Grant wore Brioni suits in Hollywood, giving international exposure to the brand.[6] In 1959, Brioni launched a production plant, the Brioni Roman Style in Penne, which introduced the concept of Prêt Couture that also precipitated the international rise of the brand.[7]

Expansion[edit]

In 1985, the company opened a tailoring school in Penne with the aim of transmitting to younger generations the specific Brioni sartorial method.[8] The same year, Brioni opened a store in New-York's Fisher Building on 52nd Street.

In 1990, Umberto Angeloni was appointed CEO of Brioni. He embarked the company in a diversification of its product lines, from sportswear to womenswear (Lady Brioni) and accessories. Between 1995 and 2001, the company's revenue grew threefold to 150 million dollars[9] In 2007, Brioni tied a partnership with the Royal College of Art in London to train master tailors through a 3-year program[10] (the partnership ended in 2019).

In 2006, Angeloni was replaced by three joint CEOs: Antonella de Simone, Andrea Perrone, and Antonio Bianchini.[4] In June 2007, Angeloni and his wife sold their 17% share in the company.[11] In 2009, Brioni was hit by the economic crisis but refused to relocate its manufacturing outside of Italy. Instead, the brand released new categories of products with new fabrics[12] [13] and introduced a men’s scent, the brand’s first foray into fragrances since the release of the 1958 Good Luck fragrance.[14] Andrea Perrone took over as CEO[15] and appointed Alessandro Dell'Acqua as creative director of womenswear in May 2010,[16] but the brand discontinued its women’s line the following year.[17]

The New Brioni[edit]

In 2011, Brioni was acquired by the French luxury group PPR (renamed Kering in 2013).[18] For the past decade, the brand had been struggling to redefine itself, the influence of streetwear and casual office wear was driving the younger clientele away from the traditional suits tailored by Brioni.[19] Francesco Pesci, an employee of the company since 1994, acted as CEO of Brioni during the transition.[20] In July 2012, Brendan Mullane was appointed creative director of Brioni.[21][22] Mulllane experimented with silk, hand-painted fabrics, ,and kimono-belted suits in his collections.[23] In 2014, the brand launched the Brioni Eau de Toilette.[24]

In November 2014, Gianluca Flore took over as CEO of the brand.[25] In March 2016, Justin O’Shea was appointed creative director of Brioni.[26] O'Shea looked for a reinvention of the brand by appealing to new customers, featuring stronger shoulders, smaller waist and longer jackets.[27] After 6 months, O'Shea left Brioni.[28][29] In March 2017, Fabrizio Malverdi became the new CEO of Brioni, [30][31] and appointed Nina-Maria Nitsche as creative director in June 2017,[32] who was credited for revitalizing Brioni.[33] The Primo suit was introduced, a contemporary interpretation of the brand's tailoring.[34] In July 2018, Nina-Maria Nitsche exited Brioni, her style being described as elegant yet “too safe”.[35]

In October 2018, the Austrian designer Norbert Stumpfl was appointed Design Director of Brioni.[36] Norbert Stumpfl introduced a more tonal suit design with enhanced sumptuous fabrics. Cashmere, silk, vicuna and suede prevailed to create a lighter informal feel to the house’s iconic yet muted suit designs.[37] [38] In 2019, Mehdi  Benabadji was appointed CEO of Brioni.[39]

Description[edit]

Brioni is an Italian menswear luxury house based in Rome, Italy, and specialized in sartorial ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, eyewear and fragrance, and provides a tailor-made service (Bespoke). In 2020, Brioni operated 30 stores[40] and had 1,350 employees, including 1,000 tailors in production facilities.

Since 1985, Brioni has operated the tailoring school Scuola di Alta Sartoria located near its factory in Penne, Italy. A made-to-measure suit requires 200 tailors and quality control specialists before shipment.[41] A Brioni's jacket requires 12 000 stitches, only 17% of which are visible externally.[42] Garments are pressed and steamed around 80 times to lengthen the fabric.[41]

Brioni has hired iconic stars for its advertising campaigns coined "Tailoring Legends": Samuel L. Jackson[43] and Sir Anthony Hopkins[44] in 2017, Harvey Keitel[45] and Pierce Brosnan[46] in 2018, Matt Dillon in 2019,[47] Brad Pitt in 2020.[48]

Governance[edit]

CEOs
  • 1990-2006: Umberto Angeloni
  • 2006-2009: Antonella de Simone, Andrea Perrone, Antonio Bianchini
  • 2009-2010: Andrea Perrone
  • 2010-2014: Francesco Pesci
  • 2014-2017: Gianluca Flore
  • 2017-2019: Fabrizio Malverdi
  • 2020-present: Medhi Benabadji
Creative designers
  • 2013-2016: Brendan Mullane
  • 2016: Justin O’Shea
  • 2017-2018: Nina-Maria Nitsche
  • 2018-present: Norbert Stumpfl

In the popular culture[edit]

Brioni has dressed Pierce Brosnan in all his James Bond movies since GoldenEye (1995), and Daniel Craig in Casino Royale (2006).[49] In the 2000 movie American Psycho, Patrick Bateman (played by Christian Bale) wears a Brioni tie.[50]

Bibliography[edit]

  • Farid Chenoune, Brioni (Universe of Fashion), ed. Universe. 1998.
  • Fernando Morelli, Lea Della Cagna and Michelle Finamore, Gaetano Savini, the Man Who Was Brioni, ed. Assouline. 2011.

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b c d Koski, Lorna (23 September 2015). "Gaetano Savini's Daughter Pens Intro to 'Gaetano Savini, the Man Who Was Brioni'". WWD. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  2. ^ "Brioni Brand Story". Uomo Group. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  3. ^ "Mencyclopaedia: Brioni". Telegraph.co.uk.
  4. ^ a b "Brioni". FASHION DATABASE. 2019-07-12. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  5. ^ Tailored Trap for Men. Life. 10 October 1955.
  6. ^ Koski, Lorna (2015-09-23). "Gaetano Savini's Daughter Pens Intro to 'Gaetano Savini, the Man Who Was Brioni'". WWD. Retrieved 2021-04-28.
  7. ^ "A Temple of Tailoring The Timeless Elegance of Brioni". Grailed. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  8. ^ Visiting the source: making Brioni suits The New York Times, 14 April 2014
  9. ^ Nalley, Richard. "Caruso's Umberto Angeloni: Fashion's Comeback King". Forbes. Retrieved 2021-04-28.
  10. ^ Czerny, Anna (27 October 2007). "Brioni joins forces with the Royal College of Art". Drapers. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  11. ^ "Angeloni Sells Stake in Brioni". WWD. 19 June 2007. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  12. ^ Schwartz, Nelson D. (2009-08-10). "Brioni, Suitmaker to Presidents, Adapts to Crisis". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  13. ^ "FEATURE : Brioni, tailor to the glitterati, carries on doing what it does best despite recession - Taipei Times". www.taipeitimes.com. 5 May 2010. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  14. ^ Beastall, Chris (15 October 2009). "Brioni Launches Men's Scent". Ape to Gentleman. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  15. ^ "Brioni Names Andrea Perrone Group CEO". Elite Traveler. 2009-07-15. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  16. ^ Zargani, Luisa (2010-05-27). "Dell'Acqua to Design Brioni's Women's Line". WWD. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  17. ^ Lerévérend, Anaïs. "Brioni discontinues women's line". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  18. ^ Mark Scott, PPR Acquires Italian Suit Maker Brioni, Nytimes.com, November 8, 2011
  19. ^ Trebay, Guy (2020-01-08). "Brioni Girds for Men's Wear Combat". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-04-28.
  20. ^ Szmydke, Paulina (22 October 2014). "Kering Names Gianluca Flore Brioni CEO". WWD. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  21. ^ kering.com Brioni is strengthening its creative capacity and appoints Brendan Mullane as Creative Director 9 July 2012
  22. ^ Lauren Milligan, vogue.co.uk Brioni's Brit 9 July 2012
  23. ^ Schneier, Matthew (2014-04-30). "Dressing the Man of Means". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-04-28.
  24. ^ Who Is the Brioni Man?, Vanityfair.com, 12 November 2014
  25. ^ Szmydke, Paulina (22 October 2014). "Kering Names Gianluca Flore Brioni CEO". WWD. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  26. ^ Marc Bain, Lovers of Brioni suits shouldn’t worry that a heavily tattooed Australian is the brand’s new creative head qz.com March 23, 2016
  27. ^ Schneier, Matthew (2016-07-02). "The New Brioni, Shaken and Stirred". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  28. ^ Abraham, Tamara (4 October 2016). "Justin O'Shea Exits Brioni". The Business of Fashion. Retrieved 2021-03-31.
  29. ^ Berrington, Katie (4 October 2016). "Justin O'Shea Parts Ways With Brioni". British Vogue. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  30. ^ Conlon, Scarlett (17 March 2017). "Brioni Appoints CEO". British Vogue. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  31. ^ "Malverdi è il nuovo CEO di Brioni". Pambianconews.com (in Italian). 17 March 2017. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  32. ^ Brioni Names Nina-Maria Nitsche as Creative Director The New York Times, Elizabeth Paton, 2017/06/16
  33. ^ Garner, Stephen (2018-07-27). "BRIONI PARTS WAYS WITH CREATIVE DIRECTOR NINA-MARIA NITSCHE". MR Magazine. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  34. ^ Mazaheri, Tyler. "Brioni x Armie Hammer | The Primo Suit". Flaunt Magazine. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  35. ^ Muret, Dominique (27 July 2018). "Brioni creative director Nina-Maria Nitsche exits label". FashionNetwork.com. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  36. ^ Zargani, Luisa (2018-10-01). "Brioni Taps Norbert Stumpfl as Design Director". WWD. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  37. ^ Leitch, Luke. "Brioni Spring 2021 Menswear Collection". Vogue. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  38. ^ Clarke, Ashely (November 2020). "Introducing An Exclusive, Era-Defining Collection From Brioni". Mrporter.com.
  39. ^ Spencer, Mimosa (2019-12-17). "Brioni Names Mehdi Benabadji CEO". WWD. Retrieved 2021-04-02.
  40. ^ "The Kering Group: number of stores by brand worldwide 2020". Statista. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  41. ^ a b Casale, Rocky (4 April 2014). "An Exclusive Education on the Making of Brioni's Suits". The New York Times.
  42. ^ "Brioni: A Tailoring Tradition With Deep Roots". Luxury Highlights. January 2020. Retrieved 2021-04-05.
  43. ^ Brioni reaffirms bond to legendary men with Samuel L. Jackson-fronted effort, Luxurydaily.com, 14 March 2017
  44. ^ Sir Anthony Hopkins Is The Face For Brioni Fall 2017 Campaign, Daman.co.id, 1 August 2017
  45. ^ Harvey Keitel face of Brioni in latest campaign, Arabnews.com, 1 February 2018
  46. ^ Palmieri, Jean E. (2018-09-21). "Brioni Taps Pierce Brosnan for Fall Ads". WWD. Retrieved 2021-04-28.
  47. ^ Brioni taps Matt Dillon for new 'Tailoring Legends'campaign, MMr-mag.com, 10 July 2019
  48. ^ Brioni Taps Brad Pitt as Brand Ambassador, Wwd.com, 18 November 2019
  49. ^ James Bond: The 6 designers of the 007 suits from the last 50 years, Designlovr.com
  50. ^ Dress like Patrick Bateman in American Psycho, Apetogentleman.com, 28 October 2015

External links[edit]