Calvin Klein Collection
Calvin Klein Collection (renamed Calvin Klein 205W39NYC in 2017 under new creative director Raf Simons) is the brand name for the high-end designer menswear and womenswear lines from fashion house Calvin Klein.
Designer apparel, dresses, coats, dress shirts, eyewear, footwear and leather goods are sold under this 'black label' line which represents the top level in the brand pyramid of the various Calvin Klein brands. Most products are made in Italy, USA, and China.
Calvin Klein Collection is one of several Calvin Klein brands owned by Calvin Klein Inc., a wholly owned subsidiary of Phillips Van Heusen (PVH). PVH describes the Collection as "the most prestigious and luxurious brand, setting the tone of elegance and modern sophistication for all of the other Calvin Klein brands."
 Collection women's dresses retail at about US$900–2,000, but can cost up to $3,000 or more. A men's suit enters at around US$1,300. These prices are significantly higher than those for comparable, mass-produced items in the company's platinum label (for Europe & Asia only), white label (jeans, underwear, etc.) and sportswear lines.
Calvin Klein Collection clothing was traditionally presented bi-annually during New York Fashion Week (womenswear) and Milan Fashion Week (menswear). For the fall/winter 2009-10 shows at New York Fashion Week in February 2009, "as a one-off event" and at the occasion of the brand's 40th anniversary, Calvin Klein Collection menswear returned to New York City "after years of showing in Milan". The spring/summer 2010 collection was shown in Milan again as it had always been clear that “the brand plans to return to the runway in Milan for future shows”. Under Raf Simons and with the new name, the women's and men's collections were combined into one show in New York.
The label sewn into the clothes used to be off-white with black characters until fall 2004. After that, it was black with a tonal logotype. The signature font did not change. Since 2017, it has been a black label with the new name in white characters and capital letters (CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC).
Licensing and Production
Before PVH decided in 2003 to license the Collection business, the design of Calvin Klein Collection had been managed out of the label's West 39th Street headquarters in New York City by Mr. Klein and his design staff, even though the pieces were European-produced. The worldwide license for the Collection was then held from 2003 by Vestimenta SpA, an Italian high-fashion manufacturer, whose bankruptcy led Fingen SpA of Italy (the parent of the licensees for Calvin Klein Jeanswear in Europe and Asia and ck Calvin Klein bridge apparel in Europe) to take over the license starting with the Spring 2006 line in the form of a subsidiary named CMI (Confezioni Moda Italia). In late 2005, the New York-based Warnaco Group, an apparel manufacturer that already cooperates with Calvin Klein in their sportswear and Jeans business on the US market, arranged to acquire the worldwide license from "Florence-based Fingen SpA for $286 million" for the 2008 to 2013 period. However, in December 2007 it was announced that PVH will take design and production duties for the collection back in-house to regain full control of the label and Warnaco will instead receive the rights to operate Calvin Klein Jeans retail stores in Europe, Asia and Latin America and ck Calvin Klein accessories stores in Europe and Latin America.
Designers at Calvin Klein Collection
Before the house of Calvin Klein was sold to PVH in late 2002, Mr. Klein himself oversaw the design of the women's and men's collection. After the sale he functioned as a creative consultant for a short time and was later released from all duties within the company.
Former Creative Director for Calvin Klein Collection for women Brazilian-born Francisco Costa, a former Gucci designer, who had already worked with Mr. Klein directly before the founder’s departure from the company. Italo Zucchelli, a former Jil Sander and Romeo Gigli designer, had worked as Sr. Designer for menswear at Calvin Klein for six seasons before he became Creative Director of the Calvin Klein Collection menswear line in spring 2004 until April 2016. Ulrich Grimm is the Creative Director of men’s and women’s Collection shoes and accessories.
On August 2, 2016, Calvin Klein, Inc. announced the appointment of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer of the brand.
Simons will lead the creative strategy of the Calvin Klein brand globally across the Calvin Klein Collection, Calvin Klein Platinum, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Calvin Klein Underwear and Calvin Klein Home brands. As part of his role as Chief Creative Officer, Simons will oversee all aspects of Design, Global Marketing and Communications, and Visual Creative Services. Simons’ first collections will debut for the Fall 2017 season.
The arrival of Raf Simons as Chief Creative Officer signifies a momentous new chapter for Calvin Klein,” said Steve Shiffman, CEO of Calvin Klein, Inc. “Not since Mr. Klein himself was at the company has it been led by one creative visionary, and I am confident that this decision will drive the Calvin Klein brand and have a significant impact on its future. Raf’s exceptional contributions have shaped and modernized fashion as we see it today and, under his direction, Calvin Klein will further solidify its position as a leading global lifestyle brand.”
Calvin Klein Collection Advertising
The Calvin Klein Collection advertisements use two "house/signature" models every season (one male, one female) to advertise the brand, in addition to modeling on the runway. Models for past seasons include Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, Natalia Vodianova, Toni Garrn, Suvi Koponen, and Andrew Stetson.
Calvin Klein Collection stores
Currently PVH operates only one store under the Calvin Klein Collection brand:
- 654 Madison Ave., New York (flagship store)
The Paris store at 53, Avenue Montaigne closed in March 2006 because PVH decided it was unprofitable. It was the label's only international signature outlet owned by PVH. The space is now occupied by German fashion company Escada. A third store in Dallas' Highland Park was closed after 20 years in January 2006 for the same above-mentioned reason. There are other international locations, such as London, Paris, Madrid, Barcelona, Hong Kong, Singapore and Bangkok where Calvin Klein Collection stores or shop-in-shops can be found that are maintained by partners.
- pvh.com Calvin Klein Collection
- Calvin Klein
- Vogue: Calvin Klein's Homecoming (31 July 2008)
- men.style.com Calvin Klein Collection Fall 2009 men's (15 February 2009)
- Fashionwireddaily Calvin Klein Bringing Men’s Show Back to New York (29 July 200)
- Daily News Record: Fingen replaces Vestimenta as licensee for firm's men's (10 October 2005)
- WWD: Calvin Klein and Fingen said in deal for Collection licence (30 September 2005)
- financials.com: Warnaco announces agreement to acquire licensed Calvin Klein businesses in Europe and Asia (20 December 2005)
- Business Wire: PVH reaches agreement with Warnaco for Calvin Klein, Inc. to assume operation of Calvin Klein Collection business (10 December 2007)
- Reuters: PVH reaches agreement with Warnaco for Calvin Klein (10 December 2007)