Fitz Roy

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This article is about the mountain. For other uses, see Fitzroy (disambiguation).
Monte Fitz Roy
Fitz Roy Chalten Argentina Todor Bozhinov 2013.jpg
Monte Fitz Roy in 2013
Highest point
Elevation 3,405 m (11,171 ft) [1]
Prominence 1,951 m (6,401 ft) [1]
Listing Ultra
Coordinates 49°16′16.6″S 73°02′35.6″W / 49.271278°S 73.043222°W / -49.271278; -73.043222Coordinates: 49°16′16.6″S 73°02′35.6″W / 49.271278°S 73.043222°W / -49.271278; -73.043222
Monte Fitz Roy is located in Tierra del Fuego
Monte Fitz Roy
Monte Fitz Roy
Location in the Southern Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile
Location Patagonia, ArgentinaChile border
Parent range Andes
Mountain type Granite
First ascent 1952 by Lionel Terray & Guido Magnone
Easiest route Franco Argentina (650m., 6a+, 6c/A1)

Monte Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, or simply Mount Fitz Roy) is a mountain located near El Chaltén village, in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile.[2][3] First climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone, it remains among the most technically challenging mountains for mountaineers on Earth.

Monte Fitz Roy is the basis for the Patagonia clothing logo following Yvon Chouinard's ascent and subsequent film in 1968.


Argentine explorer Francisco Moreno first saw the mountain on 2 March 1877. He named it Fitz Roy, in honour of Robert FitzRoy, who, as captain of the HMS Beagle had travelled up the Santa Cruz River in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.[4]

Cerro is a Spanish word meaning hill, while Chaltén comes from a Tehuelche (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", due to a cloud that usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy, however, was only one of a number of peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.[4]


It has been agreed by Argentina and Chile that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit,[2] but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined.[5] The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine Santa Cruz Province, which includes its representation on its coat of arms.[citation needed]

Notable ascents[edit]

  • 1952 Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge (aka Franco-Argentine Ridge)(First Ascent - February 2, 1952)[6]
  • 1965 Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge (from Argentina) via Supercanaleta (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90deg) in 2-1/2 days (Second Ascent)[7]
  • 1968 Southwest Ridge aka The Californian Route (3rd ascent of peak). FA by Yvon Chouinard, Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores and Douglas Tompkins (all from USA).[8]
  • 1972 Southeast Ridge (4th ascent of peak). Ian Wade, Dave Nicol, Mo Anthoine, Guy Lee, Larry Derby & Eddie Birch. Ian & Larry from USA others UK.
  • In 1980 following the Col Americano route Gino Casassa, Chilean, monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile, and Walter Bertsch, from Austria, arrived the peak together. Alejandro Izquierdo (Chilean too), arrived just to 2800 mts.[9]
  • 1984 Franco Argentina Route by Marcos Couch, Eduardo Brenner, Alberto Bendiger y Pedro Friedrich.
  • 2002 Dean Potter, solo Supercanaleta[7]
  • 2009 Colin Haley, solo Supercanaleta[7]
  • 2009 Matthew McCarron, solo The Californian Route [7]
  • 2012 Jorge Morales and Alejandro Heres broke the speed record of ascent.
  • 2014 Between the 12th and 16 February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge-line of Cerro Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks in southern Patagonia.[10]


Panorama of Monte Fitz Roy in the morning
Mount Fitz Roy on January 16 2015
Fitz Roy and lake Capri - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares - January 16 2015

See also[edit]


  1. ^ a b "Argentina and Chile, Southern - Patagonia Ultra Prominences". Retrieved 2013-10-05.
  2. ^ a b "Border agreement between Chile and Argentina". 1998. Archived from the original on 2016-05-31. Retrieved 2006-08-07. 
  3. ^ Mount Fitz Roy -
  4. ^ a b Moreno, FP (2006) [1879]. Viaje a la Patagonia Austral (in Spanish). La Nacion (Elefante Blanco). p. 2. ISBN 987-96054-7-0. Como este volcan activo no ha sido mencionado por los navegantes ni viajeros, y como el nombre de Chalten que le dan los indios lo aplican tambien a otras montanas, me permito llamarle volcan Fitz Roy - English: Since this active volcano has not been mentioned by navigators or travellers, and since the name Chalten that the Indians call it is also applied to other mountains, I allow myself to name it Fitz Roy volcano 
  5. ^ "Map showing border between Chile and Argentina (partly undefined)". Retrieved 2016-06-26. 
  6. ^ Silleck, H (2007-02-03). "Patagonia: Fitzroy". Retrieved 2009-02-02. 
  7. ^ a b c d MacDonald, D (2009-01-15). "Haley Solos Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta". Climbing Hot Flashes. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2016-08-15. 
  8. ^ Thompkins, D; Carter, HA (1969). "Fitz Roy, 1968". American Alpine Journal. 16 (43): 263–9. 
  9. ^ "First chilean climb of Mount Fitz Roy - Perros". 
  10. ^ MacDonald, D (2014-02-18). "Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse". Climbing News. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2016-08-15. 

Further reading[edit]

  • Kearney A, 1993. Mountaineering in Patagonia. Seattle, Washington: Cloudcap.
  • Terray L, Conquistadors of the Useless, p. 307-8, Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1963. ISBN 0-89886-778-9

External links[edit]