Charlie Porter

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to navigation Jump to search

Charlie Porter (June 12, 1950 in Massachusetts – February 23, 2014 in Punta Arenas) was an American mountaineer and climate change scientist.[1] He is best known for his bold first ascents in Yosemite (particularly on El Capitan), Canada and Alaska;[2] and his significant influence on other notable climbers and the climbing community,[3] in part due to his creation and development of innovative climbing equipment.[4][5] He has also garnered a reputation as an adventurer (he was one of the first people to round Cape Horn in a kayak[6]) and geoscientist in South America.[7]

Notable ascents[edit]

El Capitan, Yosemite, USA[edit]

Porter's notable first ascents on El Capitan include[8][9]

  • Zodiac 1972
  • The Shield 1972
  • Mescalito 1973
  • Tangerine Trip 1973
  • Excalibur 1975[10]

Prior to the above routes, Porter's 1972 solo ascent of New Dawn (a variation of Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell's Wall of the Early Morning Light) in which he dropped his haul bag early in the route but continued to complete the climb 9 days later, sleeping in slings and an improvised sleeping bag made from ensolite foam, gained him significant notoriety in the climbing community.[2]



Tierra del Fuego[edit]

Adventurer and scientist[edit]

In 1979 Porter kayaked around Cape Horn, becoming one of the first people to do so.[6] From the 1980s onward he lived in South America where he continued his spirit of adventure, sailing to remote locations, regularly chartering his yacht and guiding services to marine and climate scientists whose research is based in southern South America.[16][17]


  1. ^ Holyoke, John. "Climate change scientist, legendary climber Charlie Porter dies at 63". Retrieved 2014-03-07.
  2. ^ a b Chapman, Mark; Bracksieck, George (1993). "Charlie Porter". Rock & Ice.
  3. ^ Cerro Torres: Epic Hall of Fame No 224 Climbing Magazine Archived June 1, 2010, at the Wayback Machine
  4. ^ Middendorf, John "Mechanical Advantage", Ascent 1999
  5. ^ "The Nuts Museum". Archived from the original on 2011-10-01. Retrieved 2011-07-27.
  6. ^ a b New York Times 6 May 2001
  7. ^ Madre de Dios Speleo 2008 Oxford University Expedition
  8. ^ Chris McNamara, Yosemite Big Walls - 3rd Edition May 2011
  9. ^ "40 Years of American Rock", Climbing Magazine Archived October 23, 2011, at the Wayback Machine
  10. ^ "El Capitan : Climbing, Hiking & Mountaineering". SummitPost. Retrieved 2014-03-07.
  11. ^ '
  12. ^ McLean, Russell (1977). "Middle Triple Peak". American Alpine Journal (New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club) 21 (51): 102–105. ISBN 978-0-930410-31-5
  13. ^ Doug Scott, "Mount Asgard", in World Mountaineering (Audrey Salkeld, editor), Bulfinch Press, 1998, ISBN 0-8212-2502-2
  14. ^ Pushing the limits: the story of Canadian mountaineering Chic Scott, Rocky Mountain Books Ltd, 2000 ISBN 978-0-921102-59-5
  15. ^ Jim Wickwire, Dorothy Bullitt Addicted to Danger Simon and Schuster, 1999 ISBN 978-0-671-01991-4
  16. ^ Abrupt Climate Change - Ice cores from Patagonia, Climate Change Institute 2005 [1] Archived 2012-03-23 at the Wayback Machine
  17. ^ Madre de Dios Speleo 2008 Oxford University Expedition

External links[edit]