Chogolisa seen from the "shoulder" of K2
7,668 m (25,157 ft) |
|Prominence||1,624 m (5,328 ft) |
August 2, 1975 (Chogolisa I)|
1958 (Chogolisa II)
|Easiest route||rock/snow/ice climb|
Chogolisa (Urdu: چوگولیزا from Chogo Ling Sa; literally: Great Hunt) is a mountain in the Karakoram region of Pakistan. It lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa I) rises to 7,668 metres (25,157 ft). The second highest at 7,654 metres on the NE side (Chogolisa II) is the one named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892. 
In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498 m (24,600 ft) from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a world altitude record.
Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SE ridge. On June 27 a sudden snow storm forced them to retreat and on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face. His body has never been found.
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.
- List of mountains in Pakistan
- List of highest mountains
- List of Ultras of the Karakoram and Hindu Kush
- "Chogolisa/Bride Peak". Everest News. Retrieved 2004-01-03.
- "Karakoram and India/Pakistan Himalayas Ultra-Prominences". peaklist.org. Retrieved 2010-08-05.
- This region is disputed and controlled by Pakistan; the whole region is claimed by India. See e.g. The Future of Kashmir on the BBC website.
- Conway, Sir William Martin (1894). Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalayas. Indus Publishing. ISBN 81-7387-122-1.