Derby shoe

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A Plein Derby shoe

A derby (UK: /ˈdɑːrbi/ (About this soundlisten) DAR-bee, US: /ˈdɜːrbi/ DUR-bee; also called gibson) is a style of boot or shoe characterized by quarters, with shoelace eyelets that are sewn on top of the vamp.[1] This construction method, also known as "open lacing", contrasts with that of the Oxford shoe.[2][3]

In American English the derby shoe may be referred to as a 'blucher', although technically the blucher is a different design of shoe where only eyelet tabs (not larger quarters) are sewn onto a single-piece vamp.

In modern colloquial English the derby shoe may be referred to as 'bucks' when the upper is made of buckskin.[4]

The derby became a popular sporting and hunting boot in the 1850s. By the turn of the 20th century the derby had become appropriate for wear in town.[5]

Detail of a man's derby-style dress shoe showing lacing eyelet tabs sewn on top of the vamp

See also[edit]


  1. ^ Definition of Derby
  2. ^ "The Difference Between An Oxford and a Derby". Walk London. Retrieved 2020-01-23.
  3. ^ "Footwear Guide". Friday, April 10, 2020
  4. ^ The White Buck Dress Shoe,
  5. ^ Flusser, Alan. Dressing the Man Harper Collins, 2002, pg 195.