The eight-thousanders are the 14 independent mountains on Earth that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) high above sea level. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia. Their summits are in the death zone.
The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt was unsuccessful when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.
The first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian Reinhold Messner, who completed this feat on 16 October 1986. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat. Kukuczka is also the man who established the most (9) new routes on the main eight-thousanders. Messner summitted each of the 14 peaks without the aid of supplemental oxygen. This feat was not repeated until nine years later by the Swiss Erhard Loretan in 1995. Phurba Tashi of Nepal has completed the most climbs of the eight-thousanders, with 30 ascents between 1998 and 2011. Juanito Oiarzabal has completed the second most, with a total of 25 ascents between 1985 and 2011. The Italian Simone Moro is the only mountaineer to have made the first winter ascent of four of the eight-thousanders, Jerzy Kukuczka made four winter ascents as well, but one of them was a repetition (K2 has never been summited in the winter).
The first woman who summited all 14 eight-thousanders with no disputed climbing was the Spanish Edurne Pasaban, in 2010. In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.
The first couple and team who summited all 14 eight-thousanders together were the Italians Nives Meroi (second woman without supplementary oxygen), and her husband Romano Benet in 2017. They climbed in alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen.
The country with the highest number of climbers that have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders is Italy with seven climbers, followed by Spain with six climbers and South Korea with five climbers. Kazakhstan and Poland have three climbers each that completed the "Crown of the Himalaya".
List of eight-thousanders
Climbers with verified ascents of all 14 eight-thousanders
Field O2 lists people who have climbed all 14 without bottled oxygen.
|2||Jerzy Kukuczka||1979–1987 (deceased)||1948||39||Polish|
|3||2||Erhard Loretan||1982–1995 (deceased)||1959||36||Swiss|
|8||Young-Seok Park||1993–2001 (deceased)||1963||38||Korean|
|30||Chhang Dawa Sherpa||2001–2013||1982||30||Nepali|
|34/35||16/17||Romano Benet||1998-2017||1962||55|| Italian
Claims in which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascents of all 14 peaks. The disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses.
|Fausto De Stefani (Lhotse 1997)||1983–1998||1952||46||Italian|
|Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)||1987–2005||1954||53||British|
|Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma 2000, Broad Peak 1995)||1993–2004 (deceased)||1953||49||Ukrainian|
|Eun-Sun Oh (Kangchenjunga 2009)||1997–2010||1966||44||Korean|
|Carlos Pauner (Shishapangma 2012)||2001–2013||1963||50||Spanish|
No. 1 – Everest
No. 2 – K2
No. 3 – Kangchenjunga
No. 4 – Lhotse
No. 5 – Makalu
No. 6 – Cho Oyu
No. 7 – Dhaulagiri
No. 8 – Manaslu
No. 9 – Nanga Parbat
No. 10 – Annapurna
No. 11 – Gasherbrum I
No. 12 – Broad Peak
No. 13 – Gasherbrum II
No. 14 – Shishapangma
- Explorers Grand Slam, also known as The Adventurers Grand Slam
- List of deaths on eight-thousanders
- List of highest mountains
- List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit
- List of ski descents of Eight-Thousanders
- Seven Second Summits
- Seven Summits
- Three Poles Challenge
- Volcanic Seven Summits
- In making any "highest mountains" list, one needs to use a criterion to exclude subpeaks and only list independent mountains. There is no universally agreed-upon such criterion. However the (generally accepted) list of 14 eight-thousanders is obtained if one uses a topographic prominence cutoff of between 200 and 500 metres (610 and 1524 feet). Some eight-thousand metre subpeaks have been climbed as goals in themselves, for example Lhotse Middle, but this is quite rare.
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...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen.
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Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers - becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen.
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13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen.
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Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
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...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen.
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- Nives Meroi and Romano Benet climbed all the Eight-thousanders together, it wasn't revealed if one of them climbed the last peak a few moments before the other, thus they share the same position
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