Gérald Genta

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Gérald Genta
Gerald Genta.jpg
Born
Gérald Charles Genta

(1931-05-01)1 May 1931
Geneva, Switzerland
Died17 August 2011(2011-08-17) (aged 80)
OccupationWatchmaker, businessman, designer
Years active1950–2011

Gérald Charles Genta (1 May 1931 – 17 August 2011) was a Swiss watch designer and artist. He is known for his eponymous line of timepieces as well as his design work with other high-end watch manufacturers, including IWC, Omega SA, Universal Genève, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Christie's auction house of New York has called Genta's work "the Fabergé of watches",[1] while The Wall Street Journal has called them the "world's most complicated and pricey watches".[2]

Early life[edit]

Genta was born in Geneva to a Swiss mother and father of Piemonte (Northern Italian) descent.[citation needed] At age 20, Genta finished jewellery and goldsmith training in his native Switzerland, earning a Swiss federal diploma.[3]

Starting career with Universal Genève[edit]

Subsequently, Genta was recruited by Universal Genève SA, at the time one of the most recognized manufactures in both the U.S. and Europe for its chronograph models.[citation needed] After Universal Genève settled a patent dispute involving the micro-rotor caliber, Genta designed Universal's Polerouter Microtors in the 1950s, as well as the Golden and White Shadows during the mid-1960s.[citation needed] The Shadows contained a micro-rotor, unisonic and accutron movement, the latter two a result of the quartz crisis starting in the late 1960s.[citation needed]

Notable watch designs[edit]

Genta's work with Universal would be a precursor to future collaborations with other brands in Switzerland and throughout Europe, including Omega's Constellation (1959); Patek Philippe's Golden Ellipse (1968). Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak (1970), IWC's Ingenieur (1976); Patek Philippe's Nautilus (1976); and Cartier's Pasha de Cartier (1985).[4]

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak[edit]

One of Genta's most recognisable designs was that of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, which was considered to be the first luxury sports watch in the world.[5] The watch was inspired by traditional diving helmets and therefore featured exposed screw heads as well as a unique case design.[6][7] The watch also featured an integrated bracelet.

Patek Philippe Nautilus[edit]

In 1976, Patek Philippe introduced the Nautilus collection, designed by Genta, after deciding it was time to produce an exclusive sport watch with finishes of the highest quality.[8][9] The first model was Ref. 3700 and was made of steel.[10] The Nautilus was released by Patek Philippe during the quartz crisis in the hope that it would help re-attract people's attention to high-end Swiss mechanical watches.[9]

The Nautilus collection played a key role in Patek Philippe's overall marketing strategy as it had to refresh the brand image while perpetuating tradition. The target was represented by dynamic business managers of the new generations.[11] The Nautilus wristwatch has become one of the most popular collections from Patek Philippe, and the Ref. 5711 & 5712 models, which the company introduced in 2006 to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the collection, are among the most popular models.[9][12] Today the model Ref - 5711 has become a true icon of success and style as it is adorned by various famous celebrities and sports stars.

Eponymous brand & Designs[edit]

Gerald Genta Gefica Biretro Safari Blue Note
Gerald Genta Gefica Mt. Kilimanjaro

After starting his own brand in 1969, Genta would create the sonneries, among them the Gérald Genta Octo Granda Sonnerie Tourbillion, which contained four gongs and an emulated Westminster Quarters bell ring at each quarter and on the hour, "the same melody rung out by London's Big Ben", and priced at $810,200.[13] In 1994, he designed the Grande Sonnerie Retro, the world's most complicated wristwatch, and priced at approximately $2 million.[14] For private requests, Genta hand-designed the movements, dials and cases of his timepieces and employed limited or no external assistance, outsourcing or mechanization during the process; it was not unusual for a single watch to take up to 5 years to complete.[15]

During the 1980s, Genta obtained special licensing with The Walt Disney Company and distributed a limited edition of Disney character watches to the public; previously, they had been an unofficial private request by one of Genta's repeat customers. The dials consisted of illustrations of Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, Donald Duck, Scrooge and Goofy, with cases made of 18 carat gold. Designed in Le Brassus, Switzerland, the watches retailed between $3250–$3650 in 1988.[16][17]

Famous clients[edit]

Gerald Charles A-Evolution

Genta's clients have included athletes, business people, musicians, movie stars, politicians, and royalty, including Prince Rainier of Monaco, King Hassan II of Morocco, King Juan Carlos and Queen Sofia of Spain, King Fahd of Saudi Arabia and Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother of England.[18]

Acquisition by Bulgari[edit]

After his eponymous company, trade marks, patents and designs were acquired by Bulgari in 2000, Genta resigned and created a new venture called Gerald Charles. As of 2010, Gerald Genta watches were marketed solely under the Bulgari brand. In 2019, Bulgari celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Gerald Genta mark.[19]

Family and posterity[edit]

With his wife and business partner Évelyne, Gérald had two children: Frédéric Genta and Alexia Genta.

During his life, Gerald Genta drew over 100 000 watch designs. When he died, he left Évelyne Genta over 3200 of his designs. This huge selection of drawings is made up of his most famous designs but mostly of unseen pieces. One hundred of them are being auction by Sotheby’s in Spring 2022,[20] each with a corresponding NFT.[21]

After Gérald died in 17 August 2011 at the age of 80,[22] Evelyne Genta founded in 2019 the Gerald Genta Heritage association in order to honor his unrivalled contribution to the watch industry as well as encourage and nurture young talent in the industry. The association created the yearly Gérald Genta Prize in order to reward "the young talented designers and the high potentials of watchmaking".[23]

External links[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Guest, Tim (2005). My Life in Orange: Growing Up with the Guru (page 258). Mariner Books. ISBN 0-15-603106-X.
  2. ^ The Wall Street Journal (Index, Volume 1; page 429). Dow Jones & Company. 1996. {{cite book}}: Missing or empty |title= (help)
  3. ^ Farmelo, Allen (2019-09-23). "Meet the Man Behind Nearly Every Iconic Watch Design of the 20th Century". Robb Report. Retrieved 2021-05-22.
  4. ^ "Iconic Models". Gerald Genta Heritage. Retrieved 2021-11-03.
  5. ^ Fiona Macdonald. "The most iconic timepieces of the last 100 years". Retrieved 2020-04-08.
  6. ^ "History of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak". Time and Watches | The watch blog. Retrieved 2020-04-08.
  7. ^ Williams, Alex (2016-01-04). "How the Royal Oak Watch Became a Cult Classic". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020-04-08.
  8. ^ GENEVE, PATEK PHILIPPE SA. "Patek Philippe | Company | History". Patek Philippe SA. Retrieved 2019-01-05.
  9. ^ a b c "Secrets of the Patek Philippe Nautilus | Christie's". www.christies.com. Retrieved 2019-01-05.
  10. ^ "History of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, Part 1 - The Birth of an Icon, the 3700 (1976/1990)". Monochrome Watches. 2016-10-11. Retrieved 2019-01-05.
  11. ^ History of the Patek Philippe Nautilus, 2015
  12. ^ Koch, Written byJens (2018-12-14). "Luxury in Steel: A History of the Patek Philippe Nautilus". WatchTime - USA's No.1 Watch Magazine. Retrieved 2019-01-05.
  13. ^ Jack Forster, "For whom the bell tolls; For thee if you wear a minute repeater, the most complicated watch there is", p. 101 December 2009 Forbes Life
  14. ^ Aylmer, Editor in Chief, Sean (1998). Business Review Weekly (Volume 13, Issues 33-42). Fairfax Media. {{cite book}}: |last= has generic name (help)
  15. ^ Chilton &, Co (1995). Jewelers' circular-keystone (CK., Volume 166, Issues 7-9).
  16. ^ Texas Monthly (December 1988). Emmis Communications. 1988.
  17. ^ byWatchTime, Written (2011-08-19). "Gérald Genta Has Died at Age 80". WatchTime - USA's No.1 Watch Magazine. Retrieved 2021-05-22.
  18. ^ "The Genta Touch" (PDF). Retrieved 3 January 2013.
  19. ^ "SIHH 2019 - Bvlgari Gerald Genta 50th Anniversary 103191 Arena Bi-Retro". Monochrome Watches. 2019-01-15. Retrieved 2019-02-15.
  20. ^ [https://www.europastar.com/the-watch-files/archives-heritage/1004091732-secret-gerald-genta-designs-soon-to-be-revealed.html Secret Gérald Genta designs soon to be revealed, Europa Star, February 2020
  21. ^ Watch list: Gérald Genta’s most sought-after designs to go under the hammer, Financial Times, December 20th 2021
  22. ^ "Tribute to Gérald Genta". Archived from the original on 10 September 2011. Retrieved 28 August 2011.
  23. ^ Un prix Gérald Genta pour le meilleur jeune designer horloger, Le Point, April 9th 2019