Gasherbrum IV

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Gasherbrum IV
Gasherbrum IV.JPG
Gasherbrum IV from Baltoro Glacier
Highest point
Elevation 7,925 m (26,001 ft) 
Ranked 17th (6th in Pakistan)
Prominence 715 m (2,346 ft)
Geography
Gasherbrum IV is located in Tibetan Plateau
Gasherbrum IV
Gasherbrum IV
Parent range Baltoro Muztagh, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent August 6, 1958 by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri
Easiest route snow/ice climb

Gasherbrum IV is the 17th highest mountain on Earth and the 6th highest in Pakistan. It is one of the peaks in the Gasherbrum massif.

The Gasherbrums are a remote group of peaks located at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier in the Karakoram range of the Himalaya. The massif contains three of the world's 8,000 metre peaks (if one includes Broad Peak). Gasherbrum is often claimed to mean "Shining Wall", presumably a reference to the highly visible west face of Gasherbrum IV; but in fact, it comes from "rgasha" (beautiful) and "brum" (mountain) in Balti, hence it actually means "beautiful mountain."[1]

Left to right: Gasherbrum IV, VII, V, VI[2]

Notable ascents and attempts

  • 1958 First ascent by Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri by the Northeast Ridge on an Italian expedition led by Riccardo Cassin.[3]
  • 1985 First ascent of the 10,000 ft (3,000 m) high West face by Robert Schauer (Austria) and Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland). However, bad weather and extreme exhaustion forced them to stop at the north summit, missing the true summit.[4]
  • 1986 First ascent of the Northwest ridge by Greg Child, Tim Macartney-Snape and Tom Hargis. This was the second ascent of Gasherbrum IV.[5][6]
  • 1997 First ascent of the Central Spur of the west face by a Korean team (a different line). Bang Jung-ho, Kim Tong-kwan and Yoo Huk-jae reached the summit after a sieged ascent quoted as 5.10 A3.[7]
  • 1999 Second ascent of the Northwest ridge by Kang Yeon-ryong and Yun Chi-won, part of a 13-member Korean team.[8]
  • 2008 Third ascent of the Northwest Ridge by a Spanish team composed of Alberto Iñurrategi, Juan Vallejo, José Carlos Tamayo, Mikel Zabalza, and Ferran Latorre[9] The team did not get to the main summit, but stopped at a minor peak a short distance from the true summit.[10]

References

  1. ^ H. Adams Carter, "Balti Place Names in the Karakoram", American Alpine Journal 49 (1975), p. 53.
  2. ^ Jerzy Wala, The Eight-Thousand Metre Peaks of the Karakoram (orographical sketch map, revised), Kraków, Poland, 1994
  3. ^ Griffin, Lindsay (Aug 30, 2008). "Gasherbrums Update". Alpinist Newswire. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved Nov 16, 2009. 
  4. ^ Griffin, Lindsay (Aug 30, 2008). "Gasherbrums Update". Alpinist Newswire. 
  5. ^ Griffin, Lindsay (Aug 30, 2008). "Gasherbrums Update". Alpinist Newswire. 
  6. ^ Child, Greg (1987). "Gasherbrum IV's Northwest Ridge". American Alpine Journal 1987. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 29 (61): 17–25. ISBN 0930410297. 
  7. ^ Griffin, Lindsay (Aug 30, 2008). "Gasherbrums Update". Alpinist Newswire. 
  8. ^ Griffin, Lindsay (Aug 30, 2008). "Gasherbrums Update". Alpinist Newswire. 
  9. ^ Carbonell, Rafael (August 8, 2008). "Oro en el Himalaya". El País. 
  10. ^ mounteverest.net - Interview with Juan Vallejo, member of the Spanish team