Hemmerle

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Hemmerle is a Munich-based jeweller founded in 1893 by brothers Joseph and Anton Hemmerle.[1]

Background[edit]

Anton and Joseph Hemmerle established Hemmerle when they received a Royal warrant of appointment to create medals for the Royal Bavarian Court, Bavarian Order of Merit.[2] The Hemmerle boutique at 14 Maximillianstrasse opened in 1904 and remains there today.[3]

Stefan Hemmerle, Joseph's grandson, manages the company along with his wife Sylveli. Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle, their son and daughter-in-law, manage design and product development.[4]

Stefan Hemmerle in 1995 designed a ring for the wife of a Munich art collector, in response to her practice of wearing Berlin iron jewellery (which Germans received in exchange for donating their gold and silver jewels toward funding the War of Liberation). He set a diamond in textured iron rather than in gold or platinum. The combination of common metal with a precious stone was unusual.[5]

Design[edit]

Hemmerle jewellers use gemstones including orange-pink sapphires, green diamonds or conch pearls.[6] often set in unorthodox materials such as copper, steel or wood.[7][8] Each piece is designed bespoke. The family import materials including South China Sea Melo pearls[9] or blue aquamarines from Brazil's Santa Maria mines.

Hemmerle's styles include the tassel earring, created using a traditional Austrian technique of knitting together cut stones often in bright colours into invisibly stitched strands.[10]

Hemmerle's harmony bangle was included in the permanent collection of the William and Judith Bollinger Jewellery Gallery at London's Victoria and Albert Museum in October 2010.[11]

In 2011, the Hemmerles co-wrote a book Delicious Jewels with the chef and author Tamasin Day-Lewis, published by Prestel Publishing.[12]

Hemmerle's Bangle Bracelet, Egyptian Story, 2012, became part of the permanent collection of the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York City in January 2013.[13]

In 2014 the company designed a jewellery collection consisting of twelve brooches, two pairs of earrings, a necklace and a ring, with themes of fruits, seeds, leaves and trees.[14]

The company also published a poetry book, Nature’s Jewels.[15] through the art-book publisher Mack with poems by Greta Bellamacina.[16]

In 2016 Hemmerle announced The [AL] Project, a series of jewels exploring the properties of aluminium, previewed at TEFAF in Maastricht.[17] In the same year, Hemmerle participated in Beauty—Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial at the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum in New York. This is the fifth instalment of the Triennial exhibition series.[18]

Museum Exhibitions[edit]

Hemmerle jewels have been part of numerous exhibitions worldwide including Canada, the United States, Japan, Australia, France and the UAE, amongst others. Exhibitions include: Myths: Jewels Today – Seen by Stefan Hemmerle, Die Neue Sammlung, the State Museum of Applied Arts and Design, Munich, Germany (2006); Pearls, travelling exhibition (2001-2008); The Nature of Diamonds, travelling exhibition (2008-2010); The Pearl Exhibition, Museum of Islamic Art, Doha, Qatar (2010); Serpentina: The Snake in Jewellery Around the World, Schmuckmuseum, Pforzheim, Germany, (2010-2011); Pearls, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, UK (2013-2014), and Beauty - Cooper Hewitt Design Triennial, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York USA (2016).

References[edit]

  1. ^ Newman, Jill (1 March 2010). "Jewelry: Forging Ahead". Robb Report. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  2. ^ "Bayerische Staatsregierung" (in German). Bavarian State Government. Archived from the original on September 3, 2014.
  3. ^ Becker, Vivienne (8 July 2010). "The Cult Shop-Hemmerle". How To Spend It. London. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  4. ^ Forsyth, Liz (Winter 2009). "Their Dark Materials". Intelligent Life. Archived from the original on 2012-07-07.
  5. ^ Lankarani, Nazanin (20 May 2010). "Dedication to Originality and Boldness". The New York Times.
  6. ^ Bari, Hubert (16 October 2007). The Pink Pearl: A Natural Treasure of the Caribbean. Skira. p. 112. ISBN 978-8861300132.
  7. ^ Newman, Jill (11 July 2010). "Hemmerle". Robb Report. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  8. ^ Peltason, Ruth (1 October 2010). Jewelry from Nature. Thames & Hudson. p. 129. ISBN 978-0500515334.
  9. ^ Bari, Hubert (14 September 2010). Pearls. Skira. p. 177. ISBN 978-8857200880.
  10. ^ Diamond, Jessica (5 July 2012). "Gallery". Wallpaper*. Archived from the original on 9 February 2013.
  11. ^ Neel, Julia (30 June 2010). "Best of Bavaria". Vogue. Archived from the original on 28 July 2011. Retrieved 14 August 2012.
  12. ^ Ballentine, Sandra (28 April 2011). "A Profile in Style — Christian and Yasmin Hemmerle". The New York Times.
  13. ^ Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. "Egyptian Story Bangle Bracelet, 2012". Smithsonian Institution. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  14. ^ Kolesnikov-Jessop, Sonia (17 March 2014). "Hemmerle Launches Nature's Jewels Collection and Poetry Book at TEFAF". BlouinArtinfo. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  15. ^ Nature's Jewels. Hemmerle. ISBN 978-1907946639.
  16. ^ "Biography". Greta Bellamacina. Archived from the original on 2015-11-27. Retrieved 2015-10-23.
  17. ^ "Hemmerle presents 'The [AL] Project': jewels exploring the properties of aluminium". www.tefaf.com. Archived from the original on 2016-03-10. Retrieved 2016-03-07.
  18. ^ "Cooper Hewitt website".

External links[edit]