International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation

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International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
UIAA Logo.jpg
SportMountaineering
Climbing
JurisdictionInternational
AbbreviationUIAA
FoundedAugust 1932; 87 years ago (1932-08)
HeadquartersBern, Switzerland
PresidentFrits Vrijlandt
Official website
www.theuiaa.org

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, commonly known by its French name Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA, lit. International Union of Alpine Clubs) was founded in August 1932 in Chamonix, France when 20 mountaineering associations met for an alpine congress. Count Charles Egmond d’Arcis, from Switzerland, was chosen as the first president and it was decided by the founding members that the UIAA would be an international federation which would be in charge of the "study and solution of all problems regarding mountaineering".[1] The UIAA Safety Label was created in 1960 and was internationally approved in 1965 and currently (2015) has a global presence on five continents with 86 member associations in 62 countries representing over 3 million people.[2]

Role[edit]

The UIAA is today the international governing body of climbing and mountaineering and represents climbers and mountaineers around the world on a wide range of issues related to mountain safety, sustainability and competition sport.

The International Climbers’ Meet, the goal of these meets is to foster good will and cultural understanding through our shared passion of climbing by hosting a diverse group of climbing abilities from a multitude of countries.

Safety[edit]

The UIAA Safety Commission develops and maintains safety standards for climbing equipment. These standards are implemented worldwide by the manufacturers who also participate in annual Safety Commission meetings. The Commission works with nearly 60 manufacturers worldwide and has 1,861 products certified.

Dynamic Rope UIAA fall count rating

The test to determine the fall count uses a 5.1m rope and drops a weight (80 kg single rope / 55 kg double rope) so that it falls 4.8m before experiencing a reaction force from the rope. This means that the weight is falling below the fixed end and there is minimal rope to stretch and absorb the force. The fall count rating is the number of times the rope can undergo this test before breaking. For the dynamic rope to be UIAA certified it requires a fall count rating of 5 or more.[3]

This number does not indicate that the rope needs to be discarded after this many falls while climbing, since a fall would usually not have the climber fall beyond the belayer and there is usually more rope to stretch and absorb the fall. There has been no recorded accidents of a UIAA certified dynamic rope breaking without there being damage from a sharp edge or chemical.

Mountain Medicine Diploma

Together with the International Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) and the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR), the UIAA Medical Commission has established and developed a joint Diploma in Mountain Medicine that establishes minimal requirements for courses in mountain medicine in August 1997 (Interlaken, Switzerland). Many course organizers adopted these standards and the Diploma in Mountain Medicine (DiMM) has become a widely respected qualification.

The Medical Commission was founded in 1981. Its history dates back to an earlier time when there were only a few doctors representing the largest mountaineering federations. The commission has grown to include 22 delegated doctors from 18 different mountaineering federations, as well as 16 corresponding members from all over the world. The UIAA Medical Commission has worked very closely with the Medical Commission of the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR). The current presidents of the UIAA Medical commission and the MedCom ICAR are always on the advisory board of the ISMM.

Competitions[edit]

The UIAA is the world governing body for ice climbing competitions. The annual World Cup circuit and the bi annual World Championship and Youth World Championship are organised on different continents with athletes from over 30 countries participating.

Ice climbing

The UIAA is the world governing body for ice climbing competitions. The annual UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup circuit and the bi annual World Championship and Youth World Championship are organized in different continents with athletes from over 30 countries participating.

There are two ice climbing disciplines, Speed and Lead. In Speed, athletes race up an ice face for the best time. In Lead competitions the climbers' ability to master a difficult route in a given time is tested.

Anti-Doping Commission

The UIAA has adopted the World Anti-Doping Code (2014); this includes the mandatory articles of the Code and all relevant International Standards. The commission also oversees the anti-doping testing of athletes who participate in UIAA ice climbing competitions.

Global Youth Summit

The Global Youth Summit is a series of UIAA youth events where young mountaineers from around the world come together to climb, promote peace and cooperation between countries and work on the protection of the environment. First implemented ten years ago, it consists of a series of expeditions and camps offered by UIAA member federations to other UIAA member federations and their members.

All UIAA Global Youth Summit events are organised and undertaken in strict accordance with the relevant Federation's regulations and UIAA Youth Commission Handbook & UIAA Youth Commission criteria and recommendations governing such events. Once approved the National Federation or event organiser and their designated leaders have responsibility for the event. The UIAA Youth Commission and UIAA Office may on occasion appoint other responsible persons such as trainers, event organisers and partners.

Safety Label holders[edit]

Source:[4]

  • Alpidex
  • Alien Cams
  • Austrialpin
  • Arcteryx
  • Beal
  • Beste
  • Big Wall
  • Black Diamond
  • Black Safe
  • Blue Water Ropes
  • Camp
  • Cassin
  • Cilao
  • Cousin-Trestec
  • Conquista
  • Climbing Technology
  • DMM
  • Edelweiss
  • Edelrid
  • EKS
  • Faders
  • FIXE
  • Fusion
  • Gaetani
  • Gilmonte
  • Gipfel
  • Gleisein
  • GM Climbing
  • GrandWall
  • Grivel
  • Haftgohar
  • Ice Rock
  • Kailas
  • Kong
  • Lyon
  • Mad Rock
  • Mammut
  • Metolius
  • Millet
  • Misty Mountain
  • Nal Hon
  • New England Ropes
  • Ocun
  • Omega Pacific
  • Peguet
  • Petzl
  • PMI
  • Ravina
  • Raumer
  • Roca
  • Rock Exotica
  • Ropenet
  • SMC
  • Salewa
  • Schweiger Fulpmes
  • Simond
  • Singing Rock
  • Skylotec
  • Southern Ropes
  • Sterling
  • Stubai
  • Tapecraft
  • Tendon
  • Usang
  • Vento
  • Waves

Presidents[edit]

Source:[9]

Members[edit]

Country Association Member since
 Andorra Federacio Andorrana de Muntanyisme (FAM) 1982
 Argentina Federaciòn Argentina de Ski y Andinismo (FASA) 1951
 Azerbaijan Mountaineering Federation of Azerbaijan Republic (AAF) 2011
 Azerbaijan Azerbaijan Air and Extreme Sports Federation (FAIREX) 2011
 Belgium Climbing & Mountaineering Belgium (CMBEL) 1932
 Bosnia and Herzegovina Mountaineering Union of Bosnia - Herzegovina (PSBH) 1997
 Brazil Confederação Brasileira de Montanhismo e Escalada (CBME) 2005
 Bulgaria Bulgarian Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (BCMF) 1935
 Canada Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) 1947
 Canada Ecole Nationale d'Escalade du Québec (ENEQ) 2002
 Canada Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME) 1975
 Chile Federación de Andinismo de Chile (FEACH) 1955
 China Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) 1985
 China China Hong Kong Mountaineering and Climbing Union (CHKMCU) 1988
 Cyprus Mountaineering and Climbing Federation of Cyprus (KOMOA) 2007
 South Korea Corean Alpine Club (CAC) 1969
 South Korea Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) 1969
 Croatia Hrvatski planinarski savez (HPS) 1991
 Denmark Dansk Bjergklub (DB) 1977
 Denmark Dansk Klatreforbund (DCF) 1998
 Finland Finnish Climbing Association (FCA) 1994
 France Fédération française des clubs alpins et de montagne (FFCAM) 1932
 Georgia Mountaineering and Climbing Association of Georgia (MCAG) 1993
 Japan Japan Mountaineering Association (JMA) 1967
 Greece Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (EOOA) 1936
 India Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) 1981
 India Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI) 2011
 India Nehru Institute for Mountaineering (NIM) 2011
 Iran I.R. Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation (I.R.IMSCF) 1972
 Ireland Mountaineering Ireland (MCI) 2004
 Israel The Israeli Alpine Club (ILAC) 2009
 Italy Alpenverein Südtirol (AVS) 1974
 Italy Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) 1932
 Italy International Skyrunning Federation (ISF) 2011
 Kosovo Kosovo Mountaineering and Alpinist Federation (KMAF) 2011
 Latvia Latvijas Alpinistu Savieniba (LAA) 1992
 Liechtenstein Liechtensteiner Alpenverein (LAV) 1959
 Lithuania Lithuanian Mountaineering Association (LMA) 1991
 Luxembourg Fédération Luxembourgeoise d'Escalade, de Rendonnée Sportive et d'Alpinisme (FLERA) 1960
 North Macedonia FYR Macedonian Mountain Sport Federation (MMSF) 1999
 Mexico Federación Mexicana de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada AC (FMDME) 1947
 Monaco Club Alpin Monégasque (CAM) 1994
 Mongolia National Mountaineering Federation of Mongolia (NMF) 2010
   Nepal Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) 1975
 Norway Norges Klatreforbund (NK) 1993
 Norway Norsk Tindeklub (NTK) 1965
 New Zealand New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC) 1932
 Netherlands Royal Dutch Mountaineering and Climbing Club (NKBV) 1932
 Pakistan Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) 1979
 Poland Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA) 1932
 Portugal Clube Nacional de Montanhismo (CNM) 1955
 Portugal Federação de Campismo e Montanhismo de Portugal (FCMP) 1992
 Portugal Federação Portuguesa de Montanhismo e Escalada (FPME) 2004
 Czech Republic Cesky Horolezecky Svaz (CMA) 1932
 Dominican Republic Associación Dominicana De Escalada y Montañismo (ADEM) 2010
 United Kingdom British Mountaineering Council (BMC) 1932
 United Kingdom The Alpine Club (TAC) 2003
 Romania Clubul Alpin Român (CAR) 1934
 Russia Climbing Federation of Russia (CFR) 2004
 Russia Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) 2007
 Serbia Mountaineering Association of Serbia (PSS) 2002
 Slovakia Slovensky Horolezecky Spolok JAMES (SMU JAMES) 1932
 Slovenia Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS) 1991
 United States Alaskan Alpine Club (ALAC) 1985
 United States American Alpine Club (AAC) 1932
 South Africa The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) 1992
 Spain Centre Excursionista de Catalunya (CEC) 1932
 Spain Euskal Mendizale Federazioa (EMF) 2002
 Spain Federació d'Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya (FEEC) 2000
 Spain Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME) 1932
 Sweden Svenska Klätterförbundet (SKF) 1973
  Switzerland Schweizer Alpen-Club (SAC) 1932
  Switzerland Vereinigung Akademischer Alpenclubs der Schweiz (VAACS) 1985
 Chinese Taipei Chinese Taipei Alpine Association (CTAA) 1989
 Chinese Taipei Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association (CTMA) 1993
 Turkey Turkiye Dagcilik Federasyonu (TDF) 1967
 Turkey Zirve Mountaineering Club (ZMC) 2011
 Ukraine Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation (UMF) 1991
 Hungary Magyar Hegy- és Sportmászó Szövetség (MHSSz) 1932
 Hungary Magyar Sportturisztikai Szövetség (MSTSZ) 2003

References[edit]

  1. ^ "UIAA Foundation & Early years". theuiaa.org. Retrieved 24 November 2016.
  2. ^ Apollo, Michal (2017). "The true accessibility of mountaineering: The case of the High Himalaya". Journal of Outdoor Recreation and Tourism. 17: 29–43. doi:10.1016/j.jort.2016.12.001.
  3. ^ "Safety Standards – UIAA". theuiaa.org. Retrieved 24 November 2016.
  4. ^ "UIAA Safety Label". theUIAA. Retrieved 24 November 2016.
  5. ^ Obituary: Albert Eggler – Arts and Entertainment. The Independent (10 September 1998).
  6. ^ http://www.letemps.ch/Facet/print/Uuid/eb506444-1a4e-11de-894f-51ea0a570f40/Moralit%C3%A9_nallez_pas_%C3%A0_lEiger[permanent dead link]
  7. ^ [1] Archived 8 April 2013 at the Wayback Machine
  8. ^ grough — Frits Vrijlandt elected UIAA president after no-confidence vote in former head. Grough.co.uk (19 October 2012).
  9. ^ "About – UIAA – Role of Honour". theuiaa.org. Retrieved 24 November 2016.

External links[edit]