Janja Garnbret

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Janja Garnbret
Janja Garnbret 2017 (cropped).jpg
Garnbret at the 2017 Boulder World Cup in Munich
Personal information
NationalitySlovenian
Born (1999-03-12) March 12, 1999 (age 23)
Slovenj Gradec, Slovenia[1]
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height1.64 m (5 ft 5 in)[2]
Websitejanja-garnbret.com
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing, bouldering
Highest grade
Known forBecoming the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in sport climbing and winning 6 World Championships.
Medal record
Women's sport climbing
Representing  Slovenia
Olympic Games
Gold medal – first place 2020 Tokyo Combined
World Championships
Gold medal – first place 2016 Paris Lead
Gold medal – first place 2018 Innsbruck Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2018 Innsbruck Combined
Gold medal – first place 2019 Hachioji Lead
Gold medal – first place 2019 Hachioji Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2019 Hachioji Combined
Silver medal – second place 2018 Innsbruck Lead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place 2017 Munich Combined
Gold medal – first place 2022 Munich Lead
Gold medal – first place 2022 Munich Bouldering
Gold medal – first place 2022 Munich Combined
Silver medal – second place 2015 Chamonix Lead
Silver medal – second place 2017 Munich Bouldering
World Games
Silver medal – second place 2017 Wrocław Lead
Updated on August 17, 2022.

Janja Garnbret (born March 12, 1999) is a Slovenian rock climber and sport climber who has won multiple lead climbing and bouldering events at climbing competitions. In 2021, she became the first ever female Olympic gold medalist in sport climbing, and is widely regarded as one of the greatest competitive climbers of all time.[3][4][5] She is also the world's first-ever female climber to onsight an 8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.

Garnbret won her first international title in the lead competition at the 2014 World Youth B Championships. In July 2015, just after turning 16, she started competing in the senior category of the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since then, she participated in 42 Lead Climbing World Cup events, missing the podium in only four of them.[2] In 2016, aged 17, Garnbret won the seasonal titles of the IFSC Climbing World Cup in lead and combined, World Championships in lead climbing, and World Youth A Championships in both lead climbing and bouldering. From 2016 to 2018, she was awarded the seasonal title in both lead climbing and combined disciplines. In both 2018 and 2019, she won the World Championships in bouldering and combined, and also reclaimed the lead title in 2019. The same year, Garnbret became the first athlete to win all bouldering World Cup events in a season.

Early life[edit]

Garnbret started climbing at the age of seven, and first competed in the national competition at the age of eight. She won her first major competition at the 2013 European Youth Championships, where she won in bouldering.[6]

Climbing career[edit]

Competitions[edit]

In 2015, her first year of eligibility for the IFSC Climbing World Cup, she placed seventh in the overall lead climbing standings.[7][8] The same year, she also placed first in a Swedish bouldering event, the "La Sportiva Legends Only", ahead of Shauna Coxsey, Mélissa Le Nevé, Juliane Wurm, and Anna Stöhr.[9] She also won the bouldering gathering Melloblocco in 2015.[10]

In 2016, she won most of the IFSC competitions in which she participated. She won the World Cup in lead and combined disciplines, the World Championships in lead, and the World Youth Championships in lead and bouldering.[11] Garnbret also won the Adidas Rockstars 2016 contest (an invitational contest for the world's best bouldering athletes), defeating Jessica Pilz in the superfinal.[12] She also won Rock Master in 2016, and then again in 2018.[13]

In 2017, she won the World Cup in lead and combined disciplines, the combined title in the European Championships, and ranked second in bouldering in the World Cup and the European Championships.

In 2018, she defended her World Cup titles in lead and combined disciplines and placed fourth in bouldering by winning two golds and one silver, after participating in just 3 out of 7 events (due to school commitments). Moreover, she won the World Championships in both bouldering and combined. She was close to also winning the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she earned the silver medal by topping the final route in 4 minutes and 38 seconds, just 11 seconds slower than Jessica Pilz, who won the Championship.

In 2019, she dominated the bouldering World Cup by solving 74 problems out of 78 and winning every event throughout the season.[14] Throughout six events, she placed first in six qualifications,[15] four semifinals[16] and six finals.[17] This feat had never been achieved before in the history of competition climbing. The same year, Garnbret won three out of four disciplines at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, taking gold in lead, bouldering, and combined.[18] Her win in the combined event qualified her for a spot at the 2020 Summer Olympics.[19]

In 2021, she began the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup season with a win in bouldering at Meiringen in April before finishing second in Salt Lake City, ending her streak of bouldering World Cup wins at nine.[20] In the same year, she became the first ever female Olympic champion in sport climbing, taking gold in the women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics.[21]

In April 2022, after her first bouldering World Cup victory in the 2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup season at Meiringen, Garnbret announced that she would skip the remaining bouldering events to focus on the European Championships and the lead events of the World Cup.[22] At the 2022 European Championships in Munich, Garnbret won gold in all three events – lead, bouldering, and combined – with the first two being the only titles she had never won before, thus completing the feat of winning every possible major title in sport climbing.[23][24]

Garnbret as the 2017 European champion in combined discipline
Garnbret climbing at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Munich, Germany
Garnbret with the gold medal from the 2020 Summer Olympics

Rock climbing[edit]

In 2015, Garnbret onsighted Avatar, an 8b (5.13d) route in Pandora, Croatia.[25] The same year she successfully climbed her first 8c+ (5.14c), Miza za šest at Kotečnik in her home country of Slovenia.[26] The next year she flashed La Fabelita in Santa Linya, an 8c (5.14b) sport climbing route. She was given advice by her countrywoman Mina Markovič and climbed the route in less than 15 minutes.[27]

In 2017, she went one step further and clipped the anchor of her first 9a (5.14d), Seleccio Natural, in Santa Linya.[28] Just a few days later she climbed her second 9a route, La Fabela pa la Enmienda, also in Santa Linya.[29]

In November 2021, she onsighted Fish Eye with a confirmed grading of 8c in Oliana, Spain, which was the world's first-ever female onsight of an 8c route.[30]

In March 2022, Garnbret made the first female ascent of Bügeleisen, an 8B+ (V14) problem in Maltatal, Austria.[31]

Rankings[edit]

Climbing World Cup[edit]

[32]

Discipline 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022
Lead 7 1 1 1 2 1 1
Bouldering 17 2 4 1 2 18
Speed 58 48 12
Combined 1 1 1 1

Climbing World Championships[edit]

Youth[2]
Discipline 2013
Youth B
2014
Youth B
2015
Youth A
2016
Youth A
Lead 4 1 1 1
Bouldering 1 1
Speed 23 28
Combined 2[33] 2[34]
Senior[2]
Discipline 2016 2018 2019
Lead 1 2 1
Bouldering 1 1
Speed 47 23
Combined 1 1

Climbing European Championships[edit]

Youth[2]
Discipline 2013
Youth B
2014
Youth B
2015
Youth A
Lead 1 1 1
Bouldering 1 1 1
Senior[2]
Discipline 2015 2017 2022
Lead 2 4 1
Bouldering 2 1
Speed 32
Combined 1 1

World Cup podiums[edit]

As of September 26, 2022, Garnbret has won 37 World Cup events and has a total of 56 podium finishes.[2]

Lead[edit]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2015 2 1 3
2016 4 2 6
2017 6 2 8
2018 4 3 7
2019 1 2 3
2020 1 1
2021 3 3
2022 5 2 7
Total 23 10 5 38

Bouldering[edit]

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2016 1 1
2017 3 1 4
2018 2 1 3
2019 6 6
2021 2 1 3
2022 1 1
Total 14 4 0 18

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Podelitev Bloudkovih priznanj za leto 2018" (PDF). gov.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved December 17, 2020.
  2. ^ a b c d e f g IFSC (ed.). "Garnbret's profile and rankings". Retrieved April 17, 2021.
  3. ^ "Why is Janja Garnbret the best competition climber ever". 5c Climbers. May 4, 2021. Retrieved May 31, 2021.
  4. ^ Jiwani, Rory (August 12, 2019). "Janja Garnbret: "When I am on the wall nothing else matters."". olympics.com. Retrieved July 23, 2021.
  5. ^ Burgman, John (July 7, 2021). "What If Janja Garnbret Loses At the Olympics? Unthinkable? Let's Think About It". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved July 24, 2021.
  6. ^ "Janja Garnbret Interview". klettern (in German). Retrieved June 14, 2019.
  7. ^ "IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2015: W O M E N lead".
  8. ^ Murray, Emma (July 25, 2016), "Janja Garnbret Dominates Lead World Cup, Again", Rock & Ice
  9. ^ Ketchum, Chris (November 30, 2015), "Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only", Rock & Ice.
  10. ^ "MELLOBLOCCO 2015 – The year of the women".
  11. ^ Athlete profile, International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved August 1, 2016.
  12. ^ Adidas ROCKSTARS 2016, retrieved October 19, 2017.
  13. ^ "Rock Master Hall of Fame – Rock Master Festival 2019". Retrieved September 4, 2019.
  14. ^ IFSC, ed. (June 7, 2019). "2019 Bouldering World Cup – Full results". Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  15. ^ Qualifications in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  16. ^ Semifinals in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  17. ^ Finals in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". April 6, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Moscow". April 14, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Chongquing". April 28, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Wujiang". May 5, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Munich". May 19, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
    • "Vail". June 8, 2019. Retrieved June 22, 2019.
  18. ^ S. J.; R. K. (August 20, 2019). "Zgodovinski zlati trojček superšampionke Janje" (in Slovenian). RTV Slovenija. Retrieved January 31, 2020.
  19. ^ Nagatsuka, Kaz (August 20, 2019). "Sport climbers Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi achieve dream by qualifying for 2020 Olympics". The Japan Times. Retrieved July 19, 2021.
  20. ^ Berry, Natalie (31 May 2021). "IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Round 2): Report". UKC. Retrieved 1 June 2021.
  21. ^ "Janja Garnbret ima zlato medaljo!" (in Slovenian). RTV Slovenija. August 6, 2021. Retrieved August 6, 2021.
  22. ^ "Janja Garnbret Abdicates From Remainder of 2022 Boulder World Cup Season". gripped.com. April 13, 2022. Retrieved April 15, 2022.
  23. ^ "Novopečena evropska prvakinja Janja Garnbret že mislila, da bo umrla". Delo (in Slovenian). August 13, 2022. Retrieved August 17, 2022.
  24. ^ "Janja Garnbret še tretjič na vrhu Evrope, Mia Krampl druga" (in Slovenian). RTV Slovenija. August 17, 2022. Retrieved August 17, 2022.
  25. ^ "Janja Garnbret climbs 8b onsight in Croatia". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved October 9, 2018.
  26. ^ http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/janja-garnbret-climbs-8c-at-kotecnik-in-slovenia.html>
  27. ^ "Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved October 9, 2018.
  28. ^ "Janja Garnbret climbs her first 9a at Santa Linya in Spain". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved October 8, 2018.
  29. ^ "Santa Linya sends by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved October 16, 2018.
  30. ^ "Janja Garnbret Makes History with Fish Eye 5.14b Onsight". Gripped Magazine. November 3, 2021. Retrieved November 3, 2021.
  31. ^ "Janja Garnbret climbs Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal, Austria". planetmountain.com. March 9, 2022. Retrieved September 4, 2022.
  32. ^ IFSC (ed.). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  33. ^ Combined results WYCH 2015
  34. ^ Combined results WYCH 2016

External links[edit]