Jerry Moffatt

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Jerry Moffatt
Personal information
Nationality British
Born 1963
London
Retired from competitions 1990
Climbing career
Type of climber Sport climbing, trad, bouldering
Highest grade
Known for
  • First man to climb 8a+ (5.13c)
Updated on 13 May 2013.

Jerry Moffatt (born 1963) is a rock climber from Leicestershire, England.

He came into the spotlight in the early 1980s with important ascents such as the 2nd asc. of Ron Fawcett's Strawberries (E6 6b) at Tremadog, and lightning quick repeats of some of the world's hardest routes such as Genesis and Equinox in the US, Super Imjin in Japan, Bidule in France, and The Face in Altmühl Valley Nature Park in Germany.[1]

His autobiography, Jerry Moffatt: Revelations won the Grand Prize at the Banff Mountain Book Festival in 2009.[2]

Notable Climbs[edit]

The following list is a summary of his notable ascents:[1]

  • Helmut Schmitt (E6 6b) - Stoney Middleton - 1981 - First ascent
  • Ulysses (E6 6b) - Stanage - 1983 - First ascent
  • Master's Wall (E7 6b) - Clogwyn Du'r Arddu - 1983 - First ascent
  • The Face (8a+) - Altmühltal - 1983 - First ascent, considered the first 8a+ (5.13c) in history[3][4]
  • Revelations (8a+) - Raven Tor - 1984 - First ascent
  • Le Rage de Vivre (8b+) - Buoux - 1987 - Second ascent of Antoine Le Menestrel's route (1986)
  • Le Minimum (8b+) - Buoux - 1987 - Third ascent of Marc Le Menestrel's route (1986)
  • La Spectre des Surmutant (8b+) - Buoux - 1988
  • Scarface (8b+) - Smith Rock - 1988
  • White Wedding (8b+) - Smith Rock - 1988
  • To Bolt Or Not To Be (8b+) - Smith Rock - 1988
  • Stone Love (8b+) - Frankenjura - 1988 - First ascent
  • Liquid Ambar (8c+) - Lower Pen Trwyn - 1990 - First ascent[3]
  • Punks in the Gym (8b+) - Arapiles - 1992
  • Evolution (8c) - Raven Tor - 1995 - First ascent[3][5]
  • Progress (8c) - Kilnsey - 1995 - First ascent
  • The Ace (8B) - Stanage - 2002 - First ascent

Films[edit]

  • The Real Thing (1996)
  • Hard Grit (1998)
  • One Summer
  • Stone Love (2001)
  • Stick it (2001)

Bibliography[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ a b "Jerry Moffatt interview". planetmountain.com. 16 February 2009. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 15 May 2013. 
  2. ^ Banff Mountain Book Festival
  3. ^ a b c "Une biographie pour Jerry Moffatt !" (in French). grimper.com. 18 February 2009. Retrieved 14 May 2013. 
  4. ^ Maurizio Oviglia (23 December 2012). "The evolution of free climbing". planetmountain.com. Archived from the original on 4 March 2016. Retrieved 14 May 2013. 
  5. ^ "Evolution". ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 14 May 2013. 

External links[edit]