족두리 / 족두 / 족관
|Revised Romanization||jokduri / jokdu / jokgwan|
|McCune–Reischauer||chokturi / choktu / chokkwan|
A jokduri is a type of Korean traditional coronet worn by women for special occasions such as weddings. It consists of an outer crown which is covered with black silk, and the inner which is filled with cotton and hard paper. Its top is decorated with cloisonné ornaments. The crown is also called jokdu or jokgwan and is used mostly as an accessory. The upper part is vaguely hexagonal and the bottom is cylindrical. The form of jokduri gets narrower from the top to the bottom. jokduri can be used to display the wearer's social status by being adorned with accessories made from gold or silver.
It is said that the jokduri was derived from the Mongolian woman's cap for outing, the gogori (姑姑里) in the late Goryeo period. It began to be used in that period as intermarriages between Goryeo and the Yuan Dynasty of China happened. However, the jokduri during the Goryeo period is assumed to be bigger and higher than the one in the Joseon period. During the Joseon Dynasty, the jokduri became smaller and there was not much difference in the overall shape between the top and the bottom. During the reign of King Gwanghaegun, black silk began to be used for the covering whereas purple silk was used as the inner fabric. Thereafter, as women enjoyed wearing a jokduri, it became almost a national style in fashion. In the late Joseon period, King Yeongjo (r. 1724-1776) and Jeongjo (r. 1776–1800) prohibited women from wearing gache (wigs) and, instead, encouraged them to wear jokduri. In 1788, the twelfth year of King Jeongjo's reign, he published an interdictory decree on jokduri, a prohibition against excessive usage of cloisonné, and the designation of black for the inner material such as cotton, and bamboo. Different kinds of jokguri have been used for weddings, funerals, and for daily use in the royal court.
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- "Hanboks(Traditional Clothings)". Headgear and Accessories Worn Together with Hanbok. Korea Tourism Organization. Archived from the original on 2013-04-22. Retrieved 2008-09-17.
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- 족두리 (in Korean). Doosan Encyclopedia. Retrieved 2008-09-17.[permanent dead link]
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