Kazi Sherpa

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Kazi Sherpa (Nepali: काजी शेर्पा) as confirmed by the Everest Summiteers Association,[1] and as confirmed by Everest historian Elizabeth Hawley,[2] holds the current speed climbing record on Mount Everest for the South Col Route, from basecamp to the summit, without oxygen from basecamp to the summit.

Kazi's record was set on the South Col Route, without supplemental oxygen, without steroid drug assistance (Dexamethasone), and without Sherpa assistance or guide assistance. Set in 1998, his time was 20 hours 24 minutes, from the basecamp to the summit, thereby breaking the previous record set by Marc Batard ten years earlier in 1988 by 22 hours and 29 minutes.[1][3][4][5]


  1. ^ a b "NEW/OLD RECORDS". Everestsummiteersassociation.org. Retrieved 2014-07-20.
  2. ^ American Alpine Club Press, 1999 American Alpine Journal, The Mountaineers Books, p. 374, ISBN 978-1-933056-46-3
  3. ^ "Sherpa Attempts Everest Speed Climbing Record". classic.mountainzone.com. Retrieved 2016-02-18.
  4. ^ Douglas, Ed (1999-05-04). "Myth of Mallory preserved in Everest's ice and snow". The Guardian. Retrieved 2014-07-20.
  5. ^ "Top Records - Fastest Ascent". China Tibet Information Center. Archived from the original on 2013-09-27. Retrieved 2014-07-20.

See also[edit]