Kenzo (brand)

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Kenzo S.A.
Société Anonyme / Subsidiary of public company
IndustryFashion
Founded1970; 50 years ago (1970)
FounderKenzo Takada
Headquarters,
Key people
Felipe Oliveira Baptista,
(Creative Director)
OwnerLVMH
Websitewww.kenzo.com
Footnotes / references
[1]

Kenzo (stylized as KENZO) is a French luxury fashion house founded in 1970 by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada and owned by parent company LVMH.[2]

History[edit]

Kenzo Takada was born in Japan and moved to Paris in 1964 to start his fashion career. He then became known for using Asian and Japanese influenced style with the construction of European fashion. He started with a 'Jungle Jap' boutique located at Galerie Vivienne and decorated in jungle inspired decor. He began with handmade women's clothing; reportedly, he made his first collection with $200 worth of fabrics bought at a large discount house in Montmartre.[3] The brand became Kenzo after a fashion show in New York in 1976, as the American market considered 'Jungle Jap' too pejorative.[4]

In 1983, Kenzo started designing men and then kids and home collections in 1987, followed by fragrances in 1988.[5]

In 1993, luxury-products maker LVMH acquired Kenzo from SEBP and Financière Truffaut for about $80 million.[6] From 1995, Kenzo also produced Kenzo Studio, a line was produced through a licensing agreement with the Bonaventure Group. While Kenzo developed the line’s fashion direction, Studio was sold only in the U.S. and Kenzo retail stores in China.[7]

In October 1999, Kenzo Takada resigned as the brand's creative director. From 1999 until 2003, Gilles Rosier and Roy Krejberg designed the women's and men's lines, respectively.[8]

From 2006 until 2008, over 100 of Kenzo's stores worldwide were refurbished.[9]

From 2008 until 2011, Antonio Marras served as Kenzo's creative director, overseeing the brand in its entirety.[10][11] By 2011, Kenzo barely broke even, with annual sales estimated at about 150 million euros ($197.4 million).[12][13]

By 2017, Kenzo built the accessories and shoe business to almost 30 percent of revenues.[14] In 2019, Kenzo ended its distribution agreement with I.T to take back control of its 35 stores in China via a joint venture with the same partner.[15]

On June 25, 2020, Kenzo unveiled its first American flagship store in SoHo, Manhattan.[16][17]

Role in popular culture[edit]

In 2012, designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim unveiled a knitted sweater with a tiger graphic on it for Kenzo's Fall 2012 collection.[18][19] Leon wanted to make a sweatshirt version of the sweater for him to wear.[20][21] Despite initial resistance from Kenzo's design team,[22][23] the tiger sweatshirts became extremely popular, with the initial run of sweatshirts selling out within hours at Kenzo's Paris location.[22] Since 2011, the tiger shirt and clothing designed by Leon and Lim[24][25] has been worn by celebrities and fashion bloggers including Jay Z, Kevin Hart, Beyoncé, Zooey Deschanel, Swizz Beatz, Selena Gomez, Spike Jonze, Joan Smalls, Lorde, and Rihanna.[citation needed]

For the Fall 2014 collection, Kenzo collaborated with filmmaker David Lynch, who mixed the soundtrack for the show and provided a large sculpture.[26]

For the Fall and Winter 2016 collection, Kenzo produced the campaign film The Realest Real starring Laura Harrier, Mahershala Ali, Natasha Lyonne, and Rowan Blanchard, and directed by Carrie Brownstein.[27][28]

Collaborations[edit]

In 2016, Kenzo announced its collaboration with H&M. Kenzo X H&M collection was released on 3 November 2016.[29] The fashion house also collaborates with Inglot Cosmetics company, which manufactures make-up products.[30] On 21 March 2018 Kenzo revealed Britney Spears as the face of its new 'La Collection Memento No. 2' campaign.[31] The collaboration, marketed as #KenzoLovesBritney, features a variety of ready-to-wear nostalgic denim pieces for men and women.[32]

Designers[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ "KENZO SA: Private Company Information - Businessweek". Businessweek.com. Archived from the original on 2012-10-24. Retrieved 2013-09-12.
  2. ^ a b c d e f "Kenzo". The Cut. Archived from the original on 2013-04-18.
  3. ^ Hebe Dorsey (November 14, 1976), Fashion: Kenzo Grows Up New York Times.
  4. ^ Grace Cook (February 1, 2019), Kenzo Takada — the journey from ‘Jungle Jap’ to Kenzo Archived 2020-02-25 at the Wayback Machine Financial Times.
  5. ^ Grace Cook (February 1, 2019), Kenzo Takada — the journey from ‘Jungle Jap’ to Kenzo Archived 2020-02-25 at the Wayback Machine Financial Times.
  6. ^ LVMH buys Kenzo apparel maker Archived 2020-06-30 at the Wayback Machine United Press International, August 2, 1993.
  7. ^ Janet Ozzard (September 18, 1995), Kenzo Store Aims To Build U.S. Presence Women's Wear Daily.
  8. ^ Suzy Menkes (September 18, 1995), Gilles Rosier: On to Kenzo International Herald Tribune.
  9. ^ Jessica Bumpus (December 8, 2008), The Marras Touch Vogue.
  10. ^ Jessica Bumpus (December 8, 2008), The Marras Touch Vogue.
  11. ^ Belinda White (July 12, 2011), Kenzo gets a new design team amid rumours Antonio Marras is headed for Dior The Daily Telegraph.
  12. ^ Matthieu Protard and Astrid Wendlandt (May 21, 2010), LVMH says has no plans to sell Kenzo Archived 2020-06-30 at the Wayback Machine Reuters.
  13. ^ Pascale Denis (January 5, 2011), LVMH names new head of Kenzo Archived 2020-06-29 at the Wayback Machine Reuters.
  14. ^ Kenzo Plots Global Expansion Under New CEO Archived 2020-06-30 at the Wayback Machine Women's Wear Daily, September 9, 2017.
  15. ^ Joelle Diderich (June 14, 2019), EXCLUSIVE: Kenzo Parts Ways With Creative Directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Archived 2020-05-31 at the Wayback Machine Women's Wear Daily.
  16. ^ Robinson, Roxanne (2020-06-26). "Kenzo's New Soho Flagship: A Muted Opening In A Still-Recovering New York City". Forbes. Archived from the original on 2020-06-29. Retrieved 2020-07-01.
  17. ^ Wightman-Stone, Danielle (2020-06-30). "Kenzo unveils first boutique designed by Felipe Oliveira Baptista". fashionunited.uk. Archived from the original on 2020-07-03. Retrieved 2020-07-01.
  18. ^ Tashjian, Rachel (2019-06-14). "A Requiem for the Kenzo Tiger Sweater". GQ. Archived from the original on 2020-06-29. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  19. ^ Bumpus, Jessica (2012-03-04). "Kenzo Autumn/Winter 2012 Ready-To-Wear". British Vogue. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  20. ^ Pinson, Laurel (2012-11-21). "Anatomy of a Fad: How Kenzo's Tiger Sweater Sold Out in Two Days". StyleCaster. Archived from the original on 2020-07-01. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  21. ^ Alexander, Ella (2013-09-11). "How Long Would You Wait For A Kenzo Tiger Jumper?". British Vogue. Archived from the original on 2020-06-29. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  22. ^ a b Mdudu, Naomi (2014-03-11). "Kenzo: It began with a simple sweater…". Metro. Archived from the original on 2020-07-01. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  23. ^ Bagley, Christopher (2015-03-19). "Humberto Leon and Carol Lim Talk Style With Takada Kenzo". W Magazine. Archived from the original on 2020-07-02. Retrieved 2020-06-29.
  24. ^ "Kenzo in Dubai". Mall of the Emirates. Archived from the original on 2019-07-21. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  25. ^ "About : Opening Ceremony". Opening Ceremony. Archived from the original on 2019-07-21. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  26. ^ Phelps, Nicole (2014-03-02). "Fall 2014 Ready-to-Wear: Kenzo". Style.com. Archived from the original on 2014-03-06. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  27. ^ "The Realest Real - Autumn Winter 2016 Collection | KENZO". Kenzo. November 7, 2016. Archived from the original on November 22, 2019. Retrieved 2020-04-18.
  28. ^ Simpson, Ashley W. (September 14, 2016). "Kenzo Premieres Their Latest Campaign Film, The Realest Real". Vogue. Archived from the original on June 28, 2019. Retrieved 2020-04-18.
  29. ^ Jensen, Nanna Bachmand (2016-06-12). "Kenzo X H&M | Fashion News". Ikon London Magazine. Archived from the original on 2019-07-21. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  30. ^ "About Inglot". inglotcosmetics.com. Archived from the original on 2019-08-06. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  31. ^ Bobb, Brooke (2018-03-20). "Britney Spears On Her Kenzo Campaign And How She Defines Mum Fashion". British Vogue. Archived from the original on 2019-07-21. Retrieved 2019-07-21.
  32. ^ Jensen, Erin (2018-03-20). "Kenzo is getting a 'Piece of' Britney Spears, the face of its La Collection Memento No. 2". USA Today. Archived from the original on 2019-06-05. Retrieved 2019-07-21.

External links[edit]