Michele Huiban |
(Designer, women's collections)
(Designer, men's collections)
|Products||Apparel, accessories, perfume, jewelry|
Footnotes / references|
Lanvin (French: [lɑ̃vɛ̃]) is a French multinational high fashion house, which was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889. It is the oldest French fashion house still in operation. In 1990, the house was taken over by the Orcofi Group then sold to l’Oréal in 1996. In 2001, Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese media magnate took Lanvin private again. On 14 March 2016, Bouchra Jarrar was appointed as Creative Director for Women’s Collection, replacing Alber Elbaz, who had transformed the company over the previous fourteen years. Ms. Bouchra's departure was announced on 6 July 2017. She was succeeded as artistic director by Olivier Lapidus, who left the company without a named successor on 22 March 2018. Men’s Collections have been headed by Lucas Ossendrijver since 2005.
Lanvin made such beautiful clothes for her daughter Marie-Blanche de Polignac that they began to attract the attention of a number of wealthy people who requested copies for their own children. Soon, Lanvin was making dresses for their mothers, and some of the most famous names in Europe were included in the clientele of her new boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris. In 1909, Lanvin joined the Syndicat de la Couture, which marked her formal status as a couturière. The Lanvin logo was inspired by a photograph taken for Jeanne Lanvin as she attended a ball with her daughter wearing matching outfits in 1907.
From 1923, the Lanvin empire included a dye factory in Nanterre. In the 1920s, Lanvin opened shops devoted to home decor, menswear, furs and lingerie, but her most significant expansion was the creation of Lanvin Parfums SA in 1924 and the introduction of "My Sin" in 1925 widely considered a unique fragrance, an animalic-aldehyde based on heliotrope, which would be followed by her signature fragrance Arpège in 1927, inspired by the sound of her daughter's practicing her scales on the piano.
One of the most influential designers of the 1920s and 1930s, Jeanne Lanvin's skillful use of intricate trimmings, virtuoso embroideries and beaded decorations in clear, light, floral colors became a Lanvin trademark.
After Jeanne Lanvin
When Lanvin died in 1946, ownership of the firm was ceded to her daughter Marguerite, who had shared management of the firm from 1942 with a cousin and then a fashion-industry expert. Because Marie-Blanche de Polignac was childless when she died in 1958, the ownership of the House of Lanvin went to a cousin, Yves Lanvin.
From mid-1960's through to the 1996 takeover by L'Oreal, Lanvin was run by Bernard Lanvin. The export department was in the original factory in Nanterre where all the perfumes were made and bottled. The administrative Head Office was in Paris at 3, Rue de Tilsitt. In 1979, Lanvin bought its independence from Squibb USA and a major PR promotional tour was arranged by Paris in the United States in the same year.
Britain Midland Bank bought a stake in the company from the family in March 1989, and installed Léon Bressler to revamp the firm's faded image. However, in February 1990, Midland backed out and sold Lanvin to Orcofi, a French holding company led by the Vuitton family. From Orcofi, 50% of the House of Lanvin was acquired by L'Oréal in 1994, 66% in 1995 and 100% in 1996. Under L'Oréal's diverse umbrella, an array of CEOs who circulate within the French fashion industry have directed the company.
In August 2001, Lanvin  was taken private again by investor group Harmonie S.A., headed by Mrs. Shaw-Lan Wang, a Taiwanese media magnate. In 2005, Joix Corporatic was the Lanvin ready-to-wear license holder in Japan with retail value of €50 million.
In 2011, Lanvin sales reached €203 million, not counting an estimated €4.5 million in revenues from licences.
On October 28, 2015, Lanvin announced that Elbaz was no longer at the company, due to differences of opinion with the shareholders. He was replaced by Bouchra Jarrar in March 2016. Jarrar left the following year and was succeeded by Olivier Lapidus, who departed on 23 March 2018, after only two seasons. Lapidus' successor was not named upon his exit.
Creative directors since 2001
In October 2001, Alber Elbaz was appointed the Lanvin artistic director for all activities, including interiors. In 2006, he introduced new packaging for the fashion house, featuring a forget-me-not flower color, Lanvin's favorite shade which she purportedly saw in a Fra Angelico fresco (Suzy Menkes, 2005.). On September 2, 2010, it was announced by H&M that Lanvin would be their guest designer collaboration for the Winter 2010 collection. The collection would be available to view beginning November 4, 2010 at HM.com. The collection would then be available to buy in 200 stores worldwide, on November 20, with a first look sale the day before exclusively at the H&M store in Las Vegas. The main face of the collection video was supermodel Natasha Poly 
Lucas Ossendrijver started with Kenzo’s menswear in 1997. In 2000, he moved to Munich where fashion designer Kostas Murkudis gave him free rein over the men’s line. Back in Paris, he then spent four years with Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme: his luxury fashion debut. In 2006, Lucas Ossendrijver was appointed the head of the men's line, which debuted with great success, strengthening Lanvin's brand. The 2006 men's ready-to-wear collection was inspired by a Jean-Luc Godard film. He launched the first LANVIN urban sneakers, now famous with their iconic patent leather toe caps while presenting his AW 2006 collections, later available in women’s collection. While enjoying a revitalized reputation in luxury, Lanvin received mainstream press in the United States in May 2009 when Michelle Obama was photographed wearing a popular line of Lanvin's sneakers made of suede with grosgrain ribbon laces and metallic pink toe caps while volunteering at a Washington, D.C. food bank. The sneakers were reportedly retailed at $540. He designs the new Lanvin silhouette inspired by 90 years of tailoring heritage and sartorial know-how. He modernizes the shapes using innovative or noble fabrics like silk, the cuts are less strict and more fluid to match the contemporary tastes.
Bouchra Jarrar was appointed as Creative Director by Lanvin in March 2016. "Joining Lanvin meets a desire to expend my creation to wider fields of expression," said the 45-year old designer upon the announcement. “The company’s ateliers possess extraordinary expertise, and it is my intention to bring to Lanvin the harmony and consistency of a fashion designed for women, a fashion of our time.” She is a Permanent Member of the French Chambre Syndicale de la Couture since 2014, she was a Guest Member as of January 2010. Bouchra Jarrar is renowned for her mastery of cuts and fabrics and minimal aesthetic offering couture pieces like pea coats, tuxedo, blazers and motor jacket. She worked as Nicolas Ghesquière’s studio director at Balenciaga for 10 years. In 2006, she moved on to French couture house Christian Lacroix — working alongside the designer as director of haute couture until the company closed in 2009. She founded her own house in 2010 and earned the official Haute Couture appellation in 2013.
In 2017 and with the preparation of only two ready-to-wear collections, Jarar stepped down from her position. Upon her departure, Lanvin released the following statement : "Lanvin and Bouchra Jarrar have mutually decided to put an end to their collaboration".
- 1946–1950, Lanvin's daughter Marie-Blanche de Polignac, owner and director
- 1942–50, Marie-Blanche's cousin Jean Gaumont-Lanvin (Colombes, 1908–Versailles, 1988), director general
- 1950–1955, Daniel Gorin (Paris, 1891–Paris, 1972), director general
- 1959, Marie-Blanche's cousin Yves Lanvin, owner; Madame Yves Lanvin, president.
- 1989–1990, Léon Bressler, chairperson
- 1990–1993, Michel Pietrini, chairperson
- 1993–1995, Loïc Armand, chairperson
- 1995–2001, Gérald Asaria, chairperson
- 2001–2004, Jacques Lévy, director general
- 1946 - 1958: Marie-Blanche de Polignac, director general and designer
- 1950–1963: Antonio del Castillo, women's collections
- 1960–1980: Bernard Devaux, hats, scarves, haute couture; women's "Diffusions" line 1963–1980,
- 1964–1984: Jules-François Crahay (Liège, 1917–1988), haute couture collections and "Boutique de Luxe"
- 1972: Christian Benais, men's ready-to-wear collection
- 1976–1991: Patrick Lavoix, men's ready-to-wear collections
- 1981–1989: Maryll Lanvin, ready-to-wear, first haute couture in 1985 and women's "Boutique" collections
- 1989–1990: Robert Nelissen, women's ready-to-wear collections
- 1990–1992: Claude Montana, five haute-couture collections
- 1990–1992: Eric Bergère, women's ready-to-wear collections
- 1992–2001: Dominique Morlotti, women's and men's ready-to-wear collections
- 1996–1998: Ocimar Versolato, women's ready-to-wear collections
- 1998–2002: Cristina Ortiz, women's ready-to-wear collections
- 2002–2015: Alber Elbaz, artistic director of all creative activities
- 2003–2006: Martin Krutzki, designer of men's ready-to-wear
- 2006–present: Lucas Ossendrijver, men's collections
- 2016–2017: Bouchra Jarrar, women's collections
- 2017–2018: Olivier Lapidus, women's collections
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