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friction is a kind of hitch knot used to attach one rope to another in a way that is easily adjusted. These knots are commonly used in climbing as part of single-rope technique, doubled-rope technique and as "ratchets" to capture progress on a moving rope, most typically in a mechanical advantage system such as a Z-drag. These hitches are a simple and cheap alternative to mechanical ascenders.
List of friction hitches [ edit ]
Adjustable grip hitch A simple and useful friction hitch, which may easily be shifted up and down the rope while slack.
Blake's hitch A friction hitch commonly used by arborists and tree climbers as an ascending knot. Blake's hitch is known by some climbers as a Swicero (Suicero) knot or Verones knot.
Farrimond friction hitch A quick-release adjustable friction hitch for use on lines under tension.
Autoblock (French Prusik) A friction hitch tied around a thicker rope that can slide while unloaded, but locks when loaded. Commonly used to back up belays. Similar to the
Prusik only in function. French Prusik is equivalent to bi-directional Machard.
Machard Tresse A well-known friction knot, usually presented as an autoblock or French Prusik. Some climbers refer to it with its Machard alias, a "bi-directional Machard".
Valdotain Tresse Friction knot used to be fixed on a tautline (a taut-rope), also known as a "Valdostano".
Icicle hitch A knot that is excellent for connecting to a post when weight is applied to an end running parallel to the post in a specific direction.
Pile hitch The pile hitch is easier to tie than the icicle hitch, and can be tied in the bight without access to either end of the rope.
Klemheist knot A friction hitch tied around a thicker rope that can slide while unloaded, but locks when loaded. Similar to the
Prusik. Klemheist knot is a full equivalent to uni-directional Machard.
Knute hitch A knot used to attach a lanyard of small stuff to a marlingspike or other tool.
Prusik or Prussik A friction hitch or knot used to put a loop of cord around a rope, applied in climbing, canyoneering, mountaineering, caving, rope rescue, and by arborists.
Rolling hitch ( Taut-line hitch)
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