Maki Yūkō

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Maki Yūkō
Yukou Maki.jpg
Born Maki Aritsune
(1894-02-05)5 February 1894
Sendai, Japan
Died 2 May 1989(1989-05-02) (aged 95)
Tokyo, Japan
Alma mater Keio University Faculty of Law
Occupation Mountaineer

Maki Yūkō (槇 有恒, Maki Yūkō, born 5 February 1894 in Sendai, died 2 May 1989 in Tokyo), also known as Maki Aritsune, was a Japanese mountain climber.


Maki climbed Mount Fuji at the age of ten. He made many climbs in his teens, including Mount Aso. He established a climbing club while studying law at Keio University in Tokyo, from which he graduated in 1919. He continued his studies in the United States and Great Britain.[1]

Besides numerous climbs in Switzerland in the period from 1919 to 1921, on 10 September 1921 he made the first ascent of the Eiger by the Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge) with mountain guides Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand and Fritz Steuri.[1][2][3] He made a donation of 10,000 Swiss francs toward the construction of the Mittellegi Hut.[1][3][4] In 1922 he made the first winter ascent of Mount Yari (3,180 metres (10,430 ft)) in Japan. In 1925, with five other Japanese mountaineers and three Swiss mountain guides, he made the first ascent of Mount Alberta (3,619 metres (11,873 ft)) in the Canadian Rockies.[5] The expedition was sponsored by Prince Chichibu.[1]

In 1926 he was again in the Alps, making the ascent of the Matterhorn via the Zmuttgrat and climbing with Prince Chichibu.[1][6]

Maki's climbing career was interrupted by World War II, preventing him from leading a Japanese expedition to the Himalayas.[1] In 1956 Maki led the third Japanese expedition to the Nepalese mountain Manaslu. Expedition members Toshio Imanishi and Sherpa Gyalzen Norbu made the first ascent of Manaslu on 9 May 1956.[7][1][8]


  1. ^ a b c d e f g Douglas, Ed (2011). Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest. Smithsonian Institution. New York, New York: DK Publishing. pp. 212–213. ISBN 978-0-7566-8682-6. 
  2. ^ Harrer, Heinrich; Maix, Kurt (1959). The White Spider: The Story of the North Face of the Eiger. Trans. Hugh Merrick. Rupert Hart-Davis. p. 27. ISBN 0 586 08874 1. 
  3. ^ a b Brawand, Samuel (July 1989). "Erinnerungen an Yuko Maki" [Memories of Yuko Maki] (PDF) (in German). Grindelwald. pp. 5–6. Retrieved 2 August 2013. 
  4. ^ Reynolds, Kev (2012). The Swiss Alps. Cicerone World Mountain Ranges. Milnthorpe: Cicerone Press. p. 331. ISBN 978 1 85284 465 3. Retrieved 2016-11-11. 
  5. ^ Yoshizawa, Ichiro (1990). "Yuko Maki, 1894-1989". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 32 (64): 338. Retrieved 2016-11-11. 
  6. ^ Brawand, pp. 7-8.
  7. ^ "The Ascent of Manaslu". Himalayan Journal. Himalayan Club. 20. 1957. Retrieved 2016-11-11. 
  8. ^ Reynolds, Kev (2000). Manaslu: A Trekker's Guide. Introduction. Milnthorpe: Cicerone Press Limited. p. 14. ISBN 1 85284 302 0. Retrieved 23 January 2013.