Middle Triple Peak
|Middle Triple Peak|
|Elevation||8,835 ft (2,693 m)|
|Prominence||1,800 ft (550 m)|
|Location||Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska, United States|
|Parent range||Kichatna Mountains, Alaska Range|
|First ascent||1976 by R McLean, C Porter|
Middle Triple Peak is the second highest peak in the Kichatna Mountains, a subrange of the Alaska Range in Alaska, United States. It is a striking rock tower, with immense, sheer walls on the east and west sides.
Its East Buttress route (roughly 3,600 feet/1,100 m high) is a classic hard rock climbing route. Due to the remoteness of the range and the usually terrible weather, this peak has seen only a few ascents. The first ascent of the peak was in 1976 by Russell McLean and Charlie Porter (fresh from the first solo of the Cassin Ridge on Denali).
Notable ascents and routes
- 1976 Illusory Ridge (north ridge) (NCCS V, F8 A3). David Black, Andrew Embick, Michael Graber, Alan Long. Summit reached July 10, 1976.
- 1997 Ride the Lightning, VI 5.10 A4 WI3. Dan Osman, Kitty Calhoun, Steve Gerberding and Jay Smith
- Michael Wood and Colby Coombs, Alaska: a climbing guide, The Mountaineers, 2001.
- McLean, Russell (1977). "Middle Triple Peak". American Alpine Journal. New York: American Alpine Club. 21 (51): 102–105. ISBN 978-0-930410-31-5.
- Long, Alan (1977). "A Trip to the Kichatnas". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 21 (51): 106–113. ISBN 978-0-930410-31-5.
- Beckwith, Christian (1998). American Alpine Journal: vol 40, 1998, issue 72. New York City, USA: American Alpine Club. ISBN 0-930410-78-5.
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