Mount Alberta seen from near the summit of Diadem Peak
|Elevation||3,619 m (11,873 ft) |
|Prominence||819 m (2,687 ft) |
|Location||Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada|
|Parent range||Winston Churchill Range|
|Topo map||NTS 83C/06|
|First ascent||July 21, 1925, by a Japanese team (Six Japanese men including Yūkō Maki and three men from Switzerland)|
|Easiest route||rock/snow climb|
The base was reached via Fortress Lake in 1901 by the German explorer Jean Habel. Photographs of the peak generated significant interest among mountaineers.
The first ascent was made in 1925 by members of the Japanese Alpine Club: S. Hashimoto, H. Hatano, T. Hayakawa, Y. Maki, Y.Mita, N. Okabe. The team was guided by Hans Fuhrer, H. Kohler and J. Weber, and the leader of the team was Maki. This team consisted of four Keio University alpine club members and two Gakushuin University alpine club members. They started climbing on July 21st, 1925. After some difficulty in dealing with an overhang and a steep series of ledges for 16 hours, they reached the top and ceremoniously planted an ice axe. The ice axe was left as a symbol of their achievement. The second party that achieved the ascent found this ice axe 23 years later, and brought it back to the American Alpine Club in New York. The handle of the ice axe had been broken by the ice and rocks. In 1969, the handle was found by a Japanese party, and the two parts were put together in Tokyo in 1997. This ice axe is now exhibited in Jasper Yellowhead Museum.
The second ascent was completed in 1948 by Americans Fred Ayers and John Oberlin. In 1958, the first ascent by a Canadian team was completed by Neil Brown, Hans Gmoser, Leo Grillmair, Heinz Kahl and Sarka Spinkova.
There are a number of standard climbing routes:
- Japanese Route (Normal Route) V 5.6
- North Face VI 5.9 A3
- North-East Ridge V 5.10