Mount Alberta

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Mount Alberta
Mt alberta.JPG
Mount Alberta seen from near the summit of Diadem Peak
Highest point
Elevation3,619 m (11,873 ft) [1]
Prominence819 m (2,687 ft) [2]
Coordinates52°17′14″N 117°28′36″W / 52.28722°N 117.47667°W / 52.28722; -117.47667Coordinates: 52°17′14″N 117°28′36″W / 52.28722°N 117.47667°W / 52.28722; -117.47667[2]
Mount Alberta is located in Alberta
Mount Alberta
Mount Alberta
Location in Alberta
LocationJasper National Park, Alberta, Canada
Parent rangeWinston Churchill Range
Topo mapNTS 83C/06
First ascentJuly 21, 1925, by a Japanese team (Six Japanese men including Yūkō Maki and three men from Switzerland)[3]
Easiest routerock/snow climb

Mount Alberta is a mountain located in the upper Athabasca River Valley of Jasper National Park, Canada. J. Norman Collie named the mountain in 1898 after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta.[1]

Mount Alberta is the sixth highest peak of the Canadian Rockies[2] and the third highest in Alberta. It is situated 80 kilometres (50 mi) southeast of the town of Jasper.


The base was reached via Fortress Lake in 1901 by the German explorer Jean Habel. Photographs of the peak generated significant interest among mountaineers.

The first ascent was made in 1925 by members of the Japanese Alpine Club: S. Hashimoto, H. Hatano, T. Hayakawa, Y. Maki, Y.Mita, N. Okabe. The team was guided by Hans Fuhrer, H. Kohler and J. Weber, and the leader of the team was Maki. This team consisted of four Keio University alpine club members and two Gakushuin University alpine club members. They started climbing on July 21st, 1925. After some difficulty in dealing with an overhang and a steep series of ledges for 16 hours, they reached the top and ceremoniously planted an ice axe.[3] The ice axe was left as a symbol of their achievement. The second party that achieved the ascent found this ice axe 23 years later, and brought it back to the American Alpine Club in New York. The handle of the ice axe had been broken by the ice and rocks. In 1969, the handle was found by a Japanese party, and the two parts were put together in Tokyo in 1997. This ice axe is now exhibited in Jasper Yellowhead Museum.[1]

The second ascent was completed in 1948 by Americans Fred Ayers and John Oberlin. In 1958, the first ascent by a Canadian team was completed by Neil Brown, Hans Gmoser, Leo Grillmair, Heinz Kahl and Sarka Spinkova.[1]


There are a number of standard climbing routes:[1]

  • Japanese Route (Normal Route) V 5.6
  • North Face VI 5.9 A3
  • North-East Ridge V 5.10

See also[edit]


  1. ^ a b c d e "Mount Alberta". Retrieved 2003-11-07.
  2. ^ a b c "Mount Alberta". Retrieved 2008-05-24.
  3. ^ a b "Conquering Mount Alberta, 1925". Feature Article. American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 8 (3): 446. 1953. Retrieved 2016-11-11.

External links[edit]