Mount Kitchener

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Mount Kitchener
Mount Kitchener at dawn from the Icefields Parkway
Highest point
Elevation3,505 m (11,499 ft) [1]
Prominence280 m (920 ft) [2]
Coordinates52°13′03″N 117°19′12″W / 52.21750°N 117.32000°W / 52.21750; -117.32000Coordinates: 52°13′03″N 117°19′12″W / 52.21750°N 117.32000°W / 52.21750; -117.32000[2]
Mount Kitchener is located in Alberta
Mount Kitchener
Mount Kitchener
Parent rangeWinston Churchill Range
Topo mapNTS 83C/03 Columbia Icefield
First ascent1927 by Alfred J. Ostheimer, guided by Hans Fuhrer
Easiest routerock/snow climb

Mount Kitchener is a mountain located within the Columbia Icefield of Jasper National Park, which is part of the Canadian Rockies. The mountain can be seen from the Icefields Parkway (highway 93) near Sunwapta Pass.

Mt. Kitchener was originally named Mount Douglas by J. Norman Collie after David Douglas. In 1916, the mountain was renamed Mount Kitchener, its present-day name, after Lord Kitchener, who had just been killed in World War I.[1]


  • SouthWest Slopes (Normal Route) I
  • Grand Central Couloir V 5.9
  • Ramp Route V 5.8

Notable ascents[edit]

  • 1975 Grand Central Couloir (V 5.9 WI5 1050m) by Jeff Lowe and Michael Weis (August 1975)[3]

Mount K2[edit]

View of Mt. Kitchener and Mount K2

Mount K2, elevation 3,090m, was named in 1938 by Rex Gibson (former Alpine Club of Canada president), apparently to signify this as a secondary peak of Mount Kitchener.[4]


Based on the Köppen climate classification, Mount Kitchener is located in a subarctic climate with cold, snowy winters, and mild summers.[5] Temperatures can drop below −20 degrees Celsius (−4 degrees Fahrenheit) with wind chill factors below −30 °C (−22 °F).


  1. ^ a b "Mount Kitchener". Retrieved 2007-08-31.
  2. ^ a b "Mount Kitchener". Retrieved 2013-05-17.
  3. ^ Lowe, Jeff (1976). "The Cold Dance Review". American Alpine Journal. New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club. 20 (50): 326–333.
  4. ^ Mount K2 PeakFinder
  5. ^ Peel, M. C.; Finlayson, B. L. & McMahon, T. A. (2007). "Updated world map of the Köppen−Geiger climate classification". Hydrol. Earth Syst. Sci. 11: 1633–1644. ISSN 1027-5606.

External links[edit]

Mount Kitchener's north face