Muriel Sarkany

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Muriel Sarkany
2012-07-21 Muriel Sarkany.jpg
Muriel Sarkany in 2012
Personal information
NationalityBelgian
Born (1974-08-05) August 5, 1974 (age 47)
Brussels, Belgium
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height154 cm (5 ft 1 in)
Weight47 kg (104 lb)
Websitewww.murielsarkany.com
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Highest grade
Known forFirst person, male or female, to win the annual lead climbing World Cup 5 times
Medal record
World Cup
Winner 1997 Lead
Silver medal – second place 1998 Lead
Winner 1999 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2000 Lead
Winner 2001 Lead
Winner 2002 Lead
Winner 2003 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2004 Lead
Bronze medal – third place 2007 Lead
World Championships
Silver medal – second place 1997 Lead
Silver medal – second place 1999 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2001 Lead
Winner 2003 Lead
Silver medal – second place 2007 Lead
Rock Master
Winner 1999 Lead
Winner 2000 Lead
Winner 2001 Lead
Updated on October 16, 2017.

Muriel Sarkany (born August 5, 1974) is a Belgian professional rock climber. She is known for winning five Climbing World Cups. She also climbs outdoors, and is now considered the second-ever (previously the fourth-ever), female climber in history to climb a 9a (5.14d) route (Punt-X, Gorges du Loup, FRA).

Climbing career[edit]

Muriel Sarkany started climbing when she was 15. Initially, she mostly climbed indoor, but after a few years she also started climbing on crags and boulders. From 1992, she started participating in international lead climbing competitions.

She won the Lead Climbing World Cup in 1997, 1999, 2001,[1] 2002, and 2003.[2] In 2003, she also won the Climbing World Championships.[3]

She retired from competition climbing in 2010, after competing for 18 years.

In November 2013, she climbed Punt-X (Gorges du Loup, FRA), and the time, becoming the fourth female climber in history to climb a 9a (5.14d) route (Josune Bereziartu was the first-ever in 2002; however, the 9a routes of Sasha DiGiulian's Pure Imagination (2011) and Era Vella (2012), and Alizée Dufraisse's La Reina Mora (2012), have since been downgraded to 8c+/9a, thus making Sarkany the effective second-ever female to climb at the grade of 9a).[4]

Rankings[edit]

Climbing World Cup[5][edit]

Discipline 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010
Lead 24 9 5 7 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 5 15 3 12 9 20

Climbing World Championships[6][edit]

Discipline 1993 1995 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009
Lead 17 4 2 2 2 1 10 2 24

Climbing European Championships[6][edit]

Discipline 1996 1998 2000 2002 2006 2008 2010
Lead 5 1 5 3 12 13 18
Bouldering - - - - - 12 -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup[edit]

Lead[6][edit]

Muriel Sarkany competing in Puurs, 2007
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
1995 2 2
1996 1 1
1997 3 1 4
1998 1 2 3
1999 1 2 1 4
2000 1 1 2 4
2001 2 3 5
2002 4 2 6
2003 5 1 1 7
2004 3 2 1 6
2006 1 1
2007 2 2
Total 20 19 6 45

Rock climbing[edit]

Redpointed routes[edit]

9a (5.14d):

  • Era Vella - Margalef (ESP) - September 2017[7][8]
  • Punt-X - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - November 21, 2013 - At the time, Sarkany became the 4th female climber in history to climb a 9a route; she is now regarded as the 2nd.[9]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

  • Ingravids Eskerps - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 8, 2012[11]
  • Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya - February 4, 2012
  • Last soul sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - September 30, 2011
  • Quoussaï les maux de la fin - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - September 13, 2011[12]
  • Hot chili X - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 28, 2011[13]
  • Drop City - Antalya (TUR) - April 5, 2008[14]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Hot Chilli Beans Volcano - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 7, 2011
  • Soul Sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - July 25, 2011
  • Le mur des cyclopes - Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux(FRA)- March 10, 2011
  • Collection automne hiver - Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FRA) - October 17, 2010
  • Trio Ternura - Santa Linya (ESP) - May 31, 2010[15]
  • Rolito Sharma - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 10, 2009[16]
  • Philippe cuisinière - Rodellar (ESP) - October 3, 2009
  • El chorreras - Rodellar (ESP) - September 29, 2009
  • Mortal combat - Castillon (FRA) - December 10, 2003
  • Skyline - Bürs (AUT) - July 18, 2003

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (November 19, 2001). "World Cup difficoltà, Kranj, i risultati". Retrieved March 10, 2012.
  2. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (December 12, 2003). "Scozia: Coppa del Mondo Difficoltà e Boulder". Retrieved March 10, 2012.
  3. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (July 14, 2003). "Sarkany e Mrazek Campioni del mondo Difficoltà. Jenny Lavarda è 4a". Retrieved March 10, 2012.
  4. ^ "Muriel Sarkany Climbs 5.14d with Punt X". Climbing. 22 November 2013. Retrieved 24 January 2022.
  5. ^ IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  6. ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Sarkany's profile and rankings". Retrieved August 20, 2019.
  7. ^ Up-Climbing (ed.). "Sarkany climbs Era Vella in Margalef".
  8. ^ Planet Mountain (ed.). "Sarkany redpoints 9a".
  9. ^ Planet Mountain (ed.). "Sarkany climbs 9a at the Gorges du Loup".
  10. ^ mountainblog.it (ed.). "Sarkany climbs La Rubla (8c+)".
  11. ^ up-climbing.com, ed. (March 10, 2012). "Ancora 8c per Muriel Sarkany". Archived from the original on March 9, 2016. Retrieved March 10, 2012.
  12. ^ planetmountain.com, ed. (September 16, 2011). "Secondo 8c estivo per Muriel Sarkany". Retrieved December 23, 2011.[permanent dead link]
  13. ^ Björn Pohl. ukclimbing.com (ed.). "Hot chili X by Muriel Sarkany and more". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  14. ^ belclimb.be, ed. (April 9, 2008). "First 8c for Muriel". Retrieved December 23, 2011.
  15. ^ belclimb.be, ed. (June 3, 2010). "Muriel Sarkany enchaîne Trio Ternura 8b+". Retrieved December 23, 2011.[permanent dead link]
  16. ^ belclimb.be, ed. (December 22, 2009). "Muriel Sarkany sent Rollito Sharma 8b+". Retrieved December 23, 2011.

External links[edit]