Nicolas Jaeger

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Nicolas Jaeger
Occupationphysician, alpinist
FamilyJanine Niépce

Nicolas Jaeger (1946−1980) was a French physician and alpinist.

Early life[edit]

Jaeger was born in 1946 in Boulogne-Billancourt, France, the son of photographer Janine Niépce. He made more than 100 solo ascents in the Mont Blanc massif, including more than a dozen first ascents.[citation needed]


Jaeger became a mountain guide in 1975. On October 15, 1978, he participated in the first French ascent of Mount Everest. The team leader was Pierre Mazeaud. Other team members included Jean Afanassieff and Kurt Diemberger. Jaeger and Afanassieff were the first to climb and then ski down one of the 14 mountains on Earth higher than 8,000 metres (26,000 ft).[1] From July 27 to September 27, 1979, he spent 60 days alone at 6,700 metres (22,000 ft) altitude on Huascarán to study the effects of "super-acclimatisation" on himself. He published an account of his experience in Carnets de Solitude the same year.[2]

On April 27, 1980, Jaeger was seen for the last time at 8,200 metres (26,900 ft) altitude during an attempted ascent of Lhotse Shar in Nepal, and is presumed dead.[3]

First solo ascents[edit]

See also[edit]


  1. ^ "Jean Afanassieff: Alpiniste aventurier" (in French). Retrieved February 16, 2013.
  2. ^ "Carnets de Solitude" (in French). Retrieved February 16, 2013.
  3. ^ Buffet, Charlie (20 March 2005). "Nicolas Jaeger au pays de l'oxygène rare" (in French). Le Monde. Retrieved 29 June 2015.