Olivia Giacobetti

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Olivia Giacobetti
Olivia Giacobetti at her perfumer's lab table
Olivia Giacobetti
Born1966 (age 52–53)
ResidenceParis, France
OccupationPerfumer
Years activec. 1982–present
Notable work
Dzing!
En Passant
Philosykos
Premier Figuier

Olivia Giacobetti (born 1966) is a French perfumer. She has an independent line called Iunx and has also created fragrances for Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain, and Hermès, among other lines. She is particularly known for a refined style as well as innovation such as her novel use of fig in perfumery, popularizing the note beginning in the mid-1990s. She is among the perfumers who became prominent in a late-20th and early-21st-century turn toward the "nose" behind the scent and independent lines that foreground these creators, a shift away from perfumes sold by fashion labels or celebrities in other fields.

Early life[edit]

Olivia Giacobetti was born in 1966.[1] Her father Francis Giacobetti is an artist.[2][3] Olivia Giacobetti was first drawn to perfumery at nine years old when she saw the Jean-Paul Rappeneau film Lovers Like Us, in which Yves Montand played a perfumer.[4]

Career[edit]

Giacobetti began working in perfumery for Annick Goutal when she was 16 years old.[1] She joined French fragrance and flavor firm Robertet the following year and worked there for seven years as an assistant perfumer.[1]

Giacobetti started her own company, Iskia, in 1990,[5] then aged 24.[1] Working out of a garden-laboratory in Paris's ninth arrondissement, she began taking commissions from lines like L'Artisan Parfumeur, Diptyque, and Hermès.[4]

In March 2003,[6] backed by Japanese cosmetics conglomerate Shiseido,[1] Giacobetti started her own line of perfumes as well as candles and body products, called Iunx.[7] Located in a large boutique at 48–50,[6] rue de l’Université in Paris that Giacobetti developed with her father Francis,[8] the original ambition was to create 60 scents,[6] but the line struggled to find an audience and closed after two years.[1] However, beginning in 2006 Iunx products were made available in a boutique in Hôtel Costes in Paris, where Giacobetti had also created the house signature scent in 1995, one of the first hotels to make such a commission.[9] In 2016, Giacobetti opened a new Iunx boutique at 13, rue de Tournon in Paris.[7]

In 2017, Giacobetti developed a line of five candles in collaboration with the Comédie-Française.[10]

Style and impact on perfumery[edit]

Giacobetti drew recognition early in her career for developing the use of fig as a note in perfume,[4] particularly in 1994 fragrance Premier Figuier for L'Artisan Parfumeur[11][12] and the 1996 Philosykos for Diptyque (the line's best-seller),[13] both scents inspired by the fig tree;[14] numerous other lines followed suit with fig fragrances of their own in the latter part of the decade.[15] In Perfumes: The Guide, Luca Turin writes, "Premier Figuier was the fragrance that put Olivia Giacobetti on the map, and deservedly so: its fig-leaf note...was an overdue natural in perfumery, and pleasantly jarring."[16]

Among Giacobetti's best-known creations is En Passant,[17] a subtle but innovative floral fragrance that combines lilac with notes of wheat and cucumber to evoke spring rain on fresh flowers.[18][19] In The Guide, Turin's co-author Tania Sanchez calls En Passant "a perfect example of Olivia Giacobetti's tendency...a fine white-on-white painting."[20] Launched in 2000 by French niche perfume line Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle,[21] the fragrance was part of a turn toward the recognition of the perfumer behind the scent, with Malle including not only the name of the perfume and brand on his bottles' labels, but also the "nose" who created the fragrance.[19] In turn, Giacobetti is among the perfumers who have raised the profile and sales of such independent and niche perfume lines, where (with a few exceptions) fashion labels and celebrity licensees previously dominated the perfume market.[22] En Passant was featured in a 2017 exhibit on contemporary perfumery at Somerset House in London.[23]

Giacobetti also received acclaim for her 1999 creation L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing!,[24] a scent inspired by Paris's Cirque d'Hiver. Discussing Dzing! in The New York Times, Chandler Burr called the perfume "one of the most innovative, authentically strange scents of the past two decades", managing to combine diverse aromas of sawdust, circus animals, caramel apples and more into "a comforting, subtly succulent mix."[25] Burr writes: "Dzing! plays subtle purity against subtle power; it's fresh without green (a trick that takes serious perfumer talent to pull off), sweet without sugar (ditto), warm and soft like a plank of newly sawed pine still warm from the blade."[26] Turin gave the perfume five stars in The Guide, saying "Olivia Giacobetti is at her imaginative, humorous best, and Dzing! is a masterpiece."[27]

Giacobetti's scents are generally mixed-media, employing both natural and lab-developed synthetic ingredients. She describes these elements as "indissociable", with potent synthetic ingredients providing the fragrance's "spine" and natural ingredients adding "nuances".[28] An exception to Giacobetti's mixed-media practice are her fragrances for Honoré des Prés, an all-naturals line.[29]

Personal life[edit]

Giacobetti lives in Paris.[4] She has a daughter, born in 1996.[4]

Perfumes[edit]

Diptyque[edit]

  • Philosykos (1996)[5]
  • Ofrésia (1999)[30]
  • Ôponé[30]
  • Curiosités (candle & scented pillar, 2011)[31][13]
  • Figuier (candle)[6]
  • Coing (candle)[6]
  • Feu de bois (candle)[6]
  • Bois Ciré (candle)[6]
  • Myrrhe (candle)[6]
  • Essence of John Galliano (candle)[6]

Honoré des Prés[edit]

  • Coconut Love[32]
  • Nu Green[32]
  • Chaman’s Party (2008)[33]
  • I Love Les Carottes (2010)[34]
  • Sexy Angelic (2008)[5][35]
  • Vamp à NY (2010)[33]

Iunx[edit]

  • L’Eau Aztèque[34]
  • L'Eau Baptiste[36]
  • L’Eau Ivre[34]
  • L’Eau qui pique[34]
  • L'Ether[36]
  • L'Eau Juste[6]
  • L'Eau Argentine[6]
  • L'Eau Aztèque[6]
  • L'Eau Frappée[6]
  • L'Eau Latine[6]

L'Artisan Parfumeur[edit]

  • L'Eau de L'Artisan (1993)[37]
  • Premier Figuier (1994)[1]
  • Drôle de Rose (1995)[30]
  • Fleur de Carotte[6]
  • Thé Pour Un Eté (1996)[30]
  • Navegar (1998)[37]
  • Dzing! (1999)[5][38]
  • Je me Souviens[6]
  • L'Eau du Fleuriste[6]
  • Passage d'Enfer (1999)[37]
  • Tea for Two (2000)[1]
  • Safran Troublant (2002)[30]
  • Sautes d'Humeur[6]
  • Figuier Extrême (2003)[6]
  • Jour de Fete (2004)[37]
  • Extrait de Songe / L'Eté en Douce (2005)[37]
  • Fou d'Absinthe (2006)[37]

Miscellaneous[edit]

References[edit]

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  2. ^ Verner, Amy (2011) "Blotting paper 2.0: Have you sniffed perfume on driftwood lately?", The Globe and Mail, 4 June 2011
  3. ^ "Francis Giacobetti expose chez Iunx". Numéro Magazine (in French). 19 September 2017. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  4. ^ a b c d e de Santis, Sophie (20 May 2009). "Olivia Giacobetti et son IXe caméléon". Le Figaro (in French). ISSN 0182-5852. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  5. ^ a b c d e Hamilton, Denise (2011) "Found In Translation: Olivia Giacobetti uses her sensory alchemy to make scents of memories", LA Times, March 2011, retrieved 26 June 2011
  6. ^ a b c d e f g h i j k l m n o p q r s t Le Guérer, Annick (2005). Parfum (Le): Des origines à nos jours (in French). Odile Jacob. p. 322. ISBN 9782738116703. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  7. ^ a b Hartman, Eviana (2 October 2016). "The Best New Places to Buy Perfume in Paris". Vogue. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  8. ^ Pellegrino, Katya (4 January 2017). "Iunx: Fragrances De Niche Incontournables". Forbes France (in French). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  9. ^ a b Dhouailly, Claire (18 May 2018). "Les hôtels créent leur parfum". Le Monde.fr (in French). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  10. ^ "Coup de coeur pour les bougies d'Olivia Giacobetti pour la Comédie-Française". Numéro Magazine (in French). 4 December 2017. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  11. ^ Ellenberg, Celia (22 April 2016). "3 L'Artisan Parfumeur Fragrances That Are Destined to Become Your Signature Scent". Vogue. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  12. ^ Boisserie, Béatrice (18 November 2011). "Pionnier du renouveau des parfums artisanaux, Jean-François Laporte, s'est éteint". Le Monde.fr (in French). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  13. ^ a b Boisserie, Béatrice (4 November 2011). "Diptyque tout feu tout flamme". Le Monde.fr (in French). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  14. ^ Dhouailly, Claire (11 April 2017). "Les maîtres parfumeurs, des stars courtisées par les marques". Le Monde.fr (in French). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  15. ^ Burr, Chandler (29 May 2008). "Scent Notes | L'Eau des Hespérides by Diptyque". T Magazine. Retrieved 23 August 2018. Their brilliant Philosykos, created in 1996 for Diptyque by Olivia Giacobetti, is often credited with the late 1990s fig craze.
  16. ^ Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 293. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
  17. ^ Bew, Sophie (1 May 2018). "A Collection of Super Clean Fragrances to Usher in Spring". AnOther. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  18. ^ Merlo, Francesca; Fusè, Laura Elena (22 June 2018). "Profumi femminili delicati: lillà, violetta ed eliotropio". Grazia (in Italian). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  19. ^ a b Steafel, Eleanor (20 June 2017). "Stagnant water, charcoal, semen... 10 smells that changed the perfume industry". The Telegraph. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  20. ^ Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 162. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
  21. ^ Niven-Phillips, Lisa (30 May 2018). "Do You Have A Signature Fragrance?". Vogue UK. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  22. ^ Wells, Rachel (2010-12-04). "Message in a bottle: 'Indie' perfumes are the new scent-sation". The Sydney Morning Herald. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  23. ^ Niven-Phillips, Lisa (22 June 2017). "For Your To-Do List: Perfume, At Somerset House". Vogue UK. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  24. ^ Stocks, Christopher (18 May 2016). "Parisian pedigree: L'Artisan Parfumeur relaunches its classic French fragrance line". Wallpaper. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  25. ^ Burr, Chandler (7 May 2009). "Scent Notes | The Beat by Burberry". T Magazine. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  26. ^ Burr, Chandler (8 October 2006). "The Remix: Scent Strip; Building Blocks". The New York Times. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  27. ^ Turin, Luca; Sanchez, Tania (2008). Perfumes: The Guide. Viking. p. 147. ISBN 978-0-670-01865-9.
  28. ^ Dhouailly, Claire (31 December 2016). "Parfums : le synthétique, c'est fantastique". Le Monde.fr (in French). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  29. ^ Wagoner, Mackenzie (4 April 2016). "10 Natural Perfumes That Are Changing the Fragrance Game". Vogue. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  30. ^ a b c d e "5 nez & 5 odeurs qu'ils détestent". Cosmopolitan.fr (in French). 18 September 2017. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  31. ^ Chang, Katie (20 October 2011). "Vain Glorious | Diptyque Turns 50". T Magazine. The New York Times. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  32. ^ a b Magsaysay, Melissa (17 October 2011). "Your Stylist: All-natural and organic perfumes". LA Times Blogs - All The Rage. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  33. ^ a b Delap, Leanne (14 September 2012). "Luxury cosmetic store The Detox Market comes to town: Beauty Spot". Toronto Star. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  34. ^ a b c d "L'interview pro d'Olivia Giacobetti, la slow parfumeuse". Elle (in French). 13 September 2015. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  35. ^ Petry, Valentine (24 April 2017). "Formules bio, odeurs naturelles : la révolution du parfum". Madame Figaro (in French). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  36. ^ a b Marcowith, Martine (23 May 2005). "3 questions à Olivia Giacobetti". L'Express. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  37. ^ a b c d e f "Olivia Giacobetti", L'Artisan Parfumeur, retrieved 26 June 2011
  38. ^ Burr, Chandler (2006) "The Remix: Scent Strip; Building Blocks", New York Times, 8 October 2006, retrieved 26 June 2011
  39. ^ "Candles in the bin? Not this Christmas..." Evening Standard. 9 December 2013. Retrieved 24 August 2018.
  40. ^ Meurisse, Yasmine (23 June 2016). "Parfum : 7 eaux florales pour l'été - Beauté". Marie France, magazine féminin (in French). Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  41. ^ Grainger, Nathalie (2010). Quintessentially Perfume. Quintessentially Publishing. p. 137. ISBN 9780955827068.
  42. ^ Giovannini, Joseph (2002) "A Blithe Fragrance Descends From Paris", New York Times, 3 November 2002, retrieved 26 June 2011
  43. ^ Maloney, Nora (5 May 2017). "The Best Mother's Day Gifts for 2017". Vanity Fair. Retrieved 24 August 2018.
  44. ^ Giovannini, Joseph (2002). "A Blithe Fragrance Descends From Paris". The New York Times. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  45. ^ Wagoner, Mackenzie (2 May 2014). "Byredo Flowerhead Perfume: This Is What the Month of May Should Smell Like". Vogue. Retrieved 23 August 2018.
  46. ^ Staff, WWD (17 June 2015). "The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2015: Indie Fragrance of the Year". WWD. Retrieved 23 August 2018.