Pakol

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A man wearing a Pakol

Pakol (Balti بروقپی نتینگ, Pashto: پکول‎, Urdu: پکول‎, Tajik: Паколь,Shina/Khowar language Pakhui, (Wakhi Seeked),(Brushashki:Phartsun )[1] (,[2] which is also known as Chitrali cap[3] and Gilgiti Cap[4] is a soft round-topped men's hat, typically of wool and found in any of a variety of earthy colours: brown, black, grey, or ivory, or dyed red using walnut.The origins of the cap are complex but the cap is thought to originate either from Nuristan region in Afghanistan The main source of production is Chitral in Pakistan .[5][6] According to Bonnie Kingsley the kausia may have came to the Mediterranean as a campaign hat worn by Alexander and veterans of his campaigns in India.[7] but according to Ernst Fredricksmeyer the kausia was too established a staple of the Macedonian wardrobe for it to have been imported from Asia to Macedonia.[8] The pakol gained popularity in Nuristan in Afghanistan a few centuries ago. It is now also very commonly worn in Chitral, Swat and Dir in Pakistan and exclusively to these people around that similar region, as it is a staple of their ethnic background. In the past couple decades, the pakol has also been worn in India, especially in parts of Delhi and Jammu & Kashmir.[9][10]

Origin[edit]

a boy statue from Macedonia (circa 300bc) wearing Kausia which is thought to be the source of Pakul.

Pakol is remarkably similar to the ancient Macedonian kausia hat, worn by men in ancient Southeast Europe, which may have been its ancestor.[11][12] According to Bonnie Kingsley the kausia may have came to the Mediterranean as a campaign hat worn by Alexander and veterans of his campaigns in India.[13] but according to Ernst Fredricksmeyer the kausia was too established a staple of the Macedonian wardrobe for it to have been imported from Asia to Macedonia.[14] The origins of the cap are complex but the cap is thought to originate either from Nuristan region in Afghanistan or the adjacent valleys of Chitral in Pakistan.[15][citation needed] Later Pashtuns of adjoining areas like Swat, Dir adopted it.[15] In the 1980s, the pakol was worn by a special unit of the Afghan Mujahideen who fought against the Soviets. Ahmed Shah Masoud seems to have been influential in popularizing this headgear to be worn by the mujahideen. The pakol owes its global celebrity to the Tajik-majority members of the Jamiat-e Islami Afghanistan, who, following their leader Ahmad Shah Masoud, first adopted it as a standard item of their outfit. Since then this cap is famous in Afghanistan.[15][16]

The pakol came into vogue in India in the 2000s, after Afghan refugees emigrated to Delhi and opened businesses selling pakols imported from Kabul.[9] The pakol's popularity also surged after actors in various Bollywood films sported the cap.[10]

a Pakul shop in Gilgit baltistan, the cap is slighlty different than chitrali caps.

References[edit]

  1. ^ "My Cap, My Identity: Men's caps from Gilgit-Baltistan". Pamir times.
  2. ^ Blackwood, 1968, William. Blackwood's Magazine, Volume 303.
  3. ^ y Amar Singh Chohan. A History of Kafferistan: Socio-economic and Political Conditions of the Kaffers.
  4. ^ y Rick Ridgeway. The Last Step: The American Ascent of K2 B.
  5. ^ Ian Worthington, Nicholas Geoffrey Lemprière Hammond, Ventures into Greek history, p. 135, Clarendon Press, 1994
  6. ^ Liddell & Scott, καυσία
  7. ^ Kingsley, Bonnie M (1981). ""The Cap That Survived Alexander."". American Journal of Archaeology. 85: 39.
  8. ^ Fredricksmeyer, Ernst (1986). "Alexander the Great and the Macedonian kausia". Transactions and Proceedings of the American Philological Association. 116: 215–227.
  9. ^ a b Saxena, Shivam (4 March 2015). "Inside Delhi's lil Afghanistan: Aroma of Kabuli pulao, murmurs in Dari". Hindustan Times. Retrieved 16 March 2018. Several shops run by Afghani refugees at Sharif Manzil now have flourishing businesses of imported carpets, pakol and karakuli caps (below), shawls and vasket (jackets). “We import these caps from Kabul. They are now becoming popular in India too,” says Sikander Khan, who runs a small garment shop in the area.
  10. ^ a b "And Thugs Met Nemesis". Greater Kashmir. 22 October 2016. Retrieved 16 March 2018. On my way for tuition to the Unique Academy at Zaina Kadal, one of the busiest marketplaces crowded with Tonga, I often spotted a couple of these known political goons sitting on a shopfront or the backseat of a Tonga puffing cigarettes cascading air around with cannabis aroma. One of them a hefty chariot driver donned in what has now been popularised by Bollywood films as ‘Pathani Suit’, ivory coloured ‘Pakol cap’, and golden thread Peshawari chappal known for his thoul (head fight) was evil personified.
  11. ^ Ian Worthington, Nicholas Geoffrey Lemprière Hammond, Ventures into Greek history, p. 135, Clarendon Press, 1994
  12. ^ Liddell & Scott, καυσία
  13. ^ Kingsley, Bonnie M (1981). ""The Cap That Survived Alexander."". American Journal of Archaeology. 85: 39.
  14. ^ Fredricksmeyer, Ernst (1986). "Alexander the Great and the Macedonian kausia". Transactions and Proceedings of the American Philological Association. 116: 215–227.
  15. ^ a b c Foschini, Fabrizio. "From Alexander the Great to Ahmad Shah Massoud: A Social History of the Pakol". Afghanistan Analyst Network. Afghanistan Analyst Network.
  16. ^ http://home.earthlink.net/~itsalladesign/afghanhats/afghanhats.html

External links[edit]

  • Willem Vogelsang, 'The Pakol: A distinctive, but apparently not so very old headgear from the Indo-Iranian borderlands'. Khil`a. Journal for Dress and Textiles of the Islamic World, Vol. 2, 2006, pp. 149–155.