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Highest point
Elevation 7,340 m (24,080 ft) [1]
Ranked 78th
Prominence 1,979 m (6,493 ft) [2]
Listing Ultra
Coordinates 36°32′51″N 72°07′00″E / 36.54750°N 72.11667°E / 36.54750; 72.11667Coordinates: 36°32′51″N 72°07′00″E / 36.54750°N 72.11667°E / 36.54750; 72.11667
Saraghrar سراغرار is located in Pakistan
Saraghrar سراغرار
Location Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan
Parent range Hindu Kush
First ascent 1959
Easiest route glacier/snow/ice

Saraghrar (Urdu: سراغرار‎) is the fourth highest independent peak in the Hindu Kush. The entire Saraghrar massif is a huge, irregular stretched plateau at elevation around 7,000 m (22,966 ft), lying above vertical granite and ice faces, which protect it all around. Its distinct summits are poorly identified, and information gathered from expeditions that have visited the area is often misleading. The main summits are: NE summit (7,340 m (24,081 ft)), northwest summit (7,300 m (23,950 ft)), southwest summit (7,148 m (23,451 ft)), south summit (7,307 m (23,973 ft)) and southeast summit (7,208 m (23,648 ft)). To date (2005), the northwest summit is the only unclimbed peak of the massif.

Climbing history[edit]

Franco Alletto (left) and Paolo Consiglio (right)
The "ice tower"

In 1958 a British team led by Ted Norrish made a first try on the northeast summit (7,349 m (24,111 ft)). This expedition was stopped by the death of member P. S. Nelson.

The year after, on August 24, 1959, the northeast peak was climbed for the first time by an Italian team led by Fosco Maraini and including Franco Alletto, Giancarlo Castelli, Paolo Consiglio, Carlo Alberto "Betto" Pinelli (the latter four reaching the top), Silvio Jovane, Franco Lamberti (expedition's doctor) and Enrico Leone, all members of the Italian Alpine Club (Rome section). They ascended via the Niroghi glacier on the northeast of the massif.

On August 24, 1967, Satoh Yukitoshi and Hara Hirosada, members of a Japanese expedition led by Kenichiro Yamamoto (Mountaineering club of Hitotsubashi University) reached the South Summit for the first time by the Rosh-Gol glacier.

In 1971, Nagano, member of a Japanese expedition (Shizuoka climbing club) led by Akiyama Reiske, summitted the SW peak for the first time on July 29.

Three Catalan expeditions in 1975, 1977 and 1982 tried the NW summit via a rocky route. On August 9, 1982, Juan Lopez Diaz (expedition leader), Enrique Lucas Llop and Nil Bohigas Martorell reached the northwest II summit (7,200 m (23,622 ft)).

In 2005, five members of a Swiss expedition led by Jean-Michel Zweiacker reached the southeast summit (7,208 m (23,648 ft)) for the first time (Mazal Chevallier, Sébastien Grosjean and Yves-Alain Peter on July 24; Marc Bélanger and Jean-Michel Zweiacker on July 29).

See also[edit]



  • Paropamiso (by Fosco Maraini, 2003) (Mondadori, Milano, Italy) ISBN 88-04-51209-1
  • Chitral Tour Guide Book (by Rahmat Karim Baig, 2004)
  • Hindu Kush Study Series (2 Volumes) (by Rahmat Karim Baig, 1994/1997) (Rehmat Printing Press, Peshawar, Pakistan)

External links[edit]