Smith Rock State Park
|Smith Rock State Park|
|Location||Deschutes County, Oregon|
|Area||641 acres (259 ha)|
|Operated by||Oregon Parks and Recreation Department|
Smith Rock State Park is an American state park located in central Oregon's High Desert near the communities of Redmond and Terrebonne. Its sheer cliffs of tuff and basalt are ideal for rock climbing of all difficulty levels. Smith Rock is generally considered the birthplace of modern American sport climbing, and is host to cutting-edge climbing routes. It is popular for sport climbing, traditional climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and bouldering.
The Smith Rock area is geologically very interesting. It is made up of layers of recent basalt flows overlaying older Clarno ash and tuff formations. Approximately 30 million years ago, a large caldera was formed when overlying rock collapsed into an underground lava chamber. This created a huge amount of rock and ash debris that filled the caldera. That material eventually hardened into rock, becoming Smith Rock tuff. A half million years ago, basalt lava flows from nearby volcanos covered the older tuff.
Eventually, the Crooked River cut its way through the layers of rock to create today’s geographic features. Smith Rock itself is a very dramatic 3,200-foot (980 m)-high ridge with a sheer cliff-face overlooking a bend in the Crooked River.
The origin of the Smith Rock name is uncertain. One story published the Albany (Oregon) States Rights Democrat in 1867, states that Smith Rock was named after John Smith who was Linn County Sheriff and an Oregon state legislator in the 1850s and 1860s. The newspaper article credits Smith with "discovering" the rock. Another story claims the rock was named after a soldier named Smith who fell to his death from the rock in 1863 while his unit was camped nearby.
The State of Oregon obtained the park property between 1960 and 1975 from the City of Redmond and Harry and Diane Kem.
The park has many miles of developed trails for hiking. The trails have view points along the routes that overlook the Crooked River and nearby rock formations. The two main trails are the Summit Trail and Misery Ridge. The park’s trail network links to neighboring Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management trails on adjacent public lands. The soil and native vegetation on the steep hillsides in the park are very sensitive to damage, so visitors are required to stay on established trails.
The park contains the first U.S. climb rated 5.14 (8b+). The area is well known for its challenging climbing routes, so eventually all top climbers visit. In 1983, Allan Watts began to use sport climbing ethics which pushed American climbing to new levels. Shortly after, between 1992 and 2009, about 500 new climbing routes were added. This brought climbers from all over the world as Smith Rock became the world capital for sport climbing. To this day, the park still attracts climbers from all over the world. The winter tends to be too cold (below freezing) for climbing, and the summer months regularly reach the 100s °F (40s °C). Some climbing routes are closed periodically for the protection of nesting birds of prey.
The park’s day-use area has a visitor center, picnic facilities, and restrooms. The day-use area is open from dawn to dusk year-round. There is also a campground for overnight visitors. The camp sites are located approximately 600 feet (180 m) from a parking area along the park's main access road. Restrooms, showers, and a cooking area are located near the parking area. Open fires are not permitted. Camping permits cost $5 per person, per night.
There is abundant wildlife in and around the park. Mule deer and many small mammals are common in the park. River otter and beaver are also found along the park’s Crooked River frontage. The Smith Rock area hosts many types of birds, including birds of prey such as prairie falcons and golden eagles. In addition, geese and ducks nest along the river in the spring time. There are also rattlesnakes in some areas of the park.
- "Smith Rock State Park". Geographic Names Information System. United States Geological Survey. Retrieved 2011-07-06.
- McArthur, Lewis A. and Lewis L. McArthur, Oregon Geographic Names (Seventh edition), "Smith Rock," Oregon Historical Society Press: Portland, Oregon (2003), pp. 890-891.
- Smith Rock State Park Climbing and Trail Guide, Oregon Parks and Recreation Department, Salem, Oregon, March 2014.
- "Smith Rock", Travel Oregon, Oregon Tourism Commission, Salem, Oregon, accessed 27 May 2015.
- "History", Smith Rock State Park, Oregon Parks and Recreation Department, Salem, Oregon, accessed 27 May 2015.
- "Park Info", Smith Rock State Park, Oregon Parks and Recreation Department, Salem, Oregon, accessed 27 May 2015.
- Phuong Cat Le (September 20, 2007). "Climbing is the main attraction, but there are other reasons to visit". Seattle Post-Intelligencer (Hearst Communications Inc.).
- Allan Watts (January 6, 2010). Rock Climbing: Smith Rocks. Falcon Guild (Morris Book). ISBN 978-0762741243.
- Media related to Smith Rock State Park at Wikimedia Commons
- Smith Rock State Park travel guide from Wikivoyage
- "Smith Rock State Park". Retrieved 2011-07-06., official Oregon Parks and Recreation Department site
- Smith Rock Revisited Documentary produced by Oregon Field Guide
- Top things to do at Smith Rock State Park By Visit Bend
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