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Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed Climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. Some experts likened this activity to horizontal level walking and running wherein the higher the velocity, the shorter is the contact time and the higher are the reaction forces.
Competition speed climbing, which takes place on an artificial standardized climbing wall, is the main form of speed climbing, however, there are other variations of speed climbing which take place out doors. In pure speed climbing, time is everything but it is also common to record speed ascents while observing a particular climbing style or ethic. For example, there are many speed records in which the climb was done according to free climbing ethics. In popular culture speed climbing may be best known for a viral video featuring Dan Osman climbing Lover's Leap via the Bear's Reach route (5.7, 400+ feet) in 4 min 25 sec. This clip was originally featured in the movie Masters of Stone IV.
- 1 Competition speed climbing
- 2 Outdoor Speed Climbing
- 3 See also
- 4 References
Competition speed climbing
Competition speed climbing as governed by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) takes place on 15m artificial walls. Competitors climb a slightly overhanging IFSC certified wall, with belaying from the top. Since 2007 the IFSC has created a standard wall for the world record. The standard has a simple rule and it involves climbers competing on the same route, side by side, and whoever reaches the top first wins. The holds and order are always identical, and the difficulty rating is around F6b (approximately YDS 5.10c), which is a level most recreational climbers could complete. The IFSC also sanctions speed climbing competitions and those events that entail world record attempts.
Time is determined by mechanical-electric timing (the competitor strikes a switch at the top of the route). When mechanical-electric timing is used, the climbing time is accurate to one hundredth of a second. As of 04/28/17, Iranian climber Reza Alipourshenazandifar holds the men's 15 meter speed world record; 5.48 seconds. Iuliia Kaplina from Russia and Anouck Jaubert from France hold the joint women's 15-meter speed record at 7.32 seconds.
Standardized Speed Climbing Wall
Speed Climbing World Records
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|August 27, 2011||6.26||Qixin Zhong||Arco, Italy||World Championships|
|October 13, 2012||5.88||Evgenii Vaitcekhovskii||Xining, China||World Cup|
|August 30, 2014||5.76||Libor Hroza||Arco, Italy||World Cup|
|August 31, 2014||5.73||Libor Hroza||Arco, Italy||World Cup|
|September 13, 2014||5.60||Danyil Boldyrev||Gijon, Spain||World Championships|
|April 30, 2017||5.48||Reza Alipourshenazandifar||Nanjing, China||World Cup|
|October 2013||7.85||Iuliia Kaplina||Wujiang, China||World Cup|
|May 17, 2015||7.74||Iuliia Kaplina||Central Saanich, Canada||World Cup|
|June 2015||7.56||Iuliia Kaplina||Chongqing, China||World Cup|
|July 2015||7.53||Iuliia Kaplina||Chamonix, France||World Cup|
|April 2017||7.46||Iuliia Kaplina||Chongqing, China||World Cup|
|April 2017||7.38||Iuliia Kaplina||Nanjing, China||World Cup|
|July 2017||7.32||Iuliia Kaplina||Wroclaw, Poland||World Games|
|April 2018||7.32||Anouck Jaubert||Moscow, Russia||World Cup|
Outdoor Speed Climbing
Pure speed climbing
Full speed climbing is done in such a way that maximizes speed and minimizes danger. When climbing with a partner the climbers will alternate between regular free climbing, simul climbing, aiding, and at times sections of roped soloing. Speed climbing can also be done by an individual in which they alternate between forms of rope soloing, aiding, and free soloing. Strictly speaking, this type of speed climbing is not a style but a combination or perhaps a type of aid climbing. However, the complexity of combining all the styles together leads to what can be recognized as a separate style with its own particular techniques used in no other style.
Speed climbing offers a number of benefits and these include the opportunities to stress-proof learned climbing techniques and to learn more about pacing. Pacing is important since a broad array of paces contributes to the climber's versatility to navigate crags and rock types. A faster pace for most climbers is said to be less strenuous than climbing at their normal speed.
Records can be recorded while climbing in a particular style. Each of the methods ultimately handicap the rate of progress with the exception of free soloing.
The simplest way to increase the speed of climbing is to shed all safety precautions such as belaying and placing protection. For some climbers, this is the same as replacing the strength of the rope and the safety gears with mental toughness. This leads to free soloing as rapidly as possible. While strictly speaking this qualifies as full speed climbing or a type of style climbing it is different enough to be recognized as its own category of speed climbing.
Most speed climbing records lack the standards normally associated with objective records. Hans Florine has written "I will be the first to say that climbing is silly. To make rules about it is just piling ridiculous on top of silly." There are no sanctioned speed climbing competitions on significant rock features. Nearly all climbing goals and records are self-designed, self-timed, and self-officiated; few are well documented, and many are disputed.
The collection that follows abides by these loose standards.
Time formate either hrs:min or hrs:min:sec.
- 1:58:07 Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell June 2018.
- 2:10:15 Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell May 2018.
- 2:19:44 Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds October 2017.
- 12:15 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
- 11:41 Hans Florine solo. July 2005.
- 11:00 Tommy Caldwell 2005 (free ascent male).
- 23:46 Lynn Hill 1994 (free ascent).
Regular Northwest Route, Half Dome
- 1:53:25 Jim Herson and Hans Florine 1999.
- 5:25 Heidi Wertz and Wera Shulte-Pelcum 2004 (all female ascent).
- 3:58 Hans Florine solo 1999 (Full day also included El Cap).
Snake Dike, Half Dome
- 3:00 Dean Potter 1998 (car to car).
- 280 Routes in a day Michael Reardon solo 2004.
- 10 climbs 100 feet tall 45 minutes free solo Dennis George
- 600 feet car to summit with a steep approach of half mile Idyllwild, CA
- 10,000 feet in 24 hours Joshua Tree, CA climb for breast cancer
- 00:05:33 Mic Fairchild solo 1998.
- 36:27 Bill Briggs solo 1989 (car to car).
- 1:15 Jash Stwart solo 2002.
- 2:35 David Laxton solo 2013.
- 50 Routes 13:30 Peter Darmi solo 2004.
- 46 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2004. 3400' of climbing and descent.
- 51 Routes 13:30 Eric Weigeshoff and Peter Darmi 2006 3400' of climbing and descent.
- 6:40 Rolando Garibotti solo 2000.
- Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, Swan Hill Press; 6th Revised edition (14 Oct 1997) ISBN 1-84037-001-7,978-1-84037-001-0
- "Climbing styles in traditional climbing - speed climbing". TimeOutdoors. Retrieved August 4, 2018.
- Moritz, Eckehard; Haake, Steve (2006). Engineering of Sport 6: Volume 1: Developments for Sports. New York: Springer. p. 55. ISBN 9780387317731.
- Dan Osman- Lover's Leap
- "What the Hell is Speed Climbing?". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 2018-08-03.
- "Event Regulations". Retrieved 2018-08-03.
- Stadsvold, Jenna (2017-06-08). "What is Speed Climbing? The Basics You Need to Know". Head Rush Tech Blog. Retrieved 2018-08-03.
- Jan Kříž (2011-07-29), World record in speed climbing 2011 (6.26 seconds) HD, retrieved 2018-02-15
- International Federation of Sport Climbing (2012-10-18), Men's Speed Climbing World Record 5.88 - IFSC Climbing World Cup Xining 2012 - Speed, retrieved 2017-05-22
- Edyta Ropek (2014-08-30), Speed Climbing World Record by Libor Hroza, Arco, 30.08.2014 qualification round, retrieved 2018-02-15
- International Federation of Sport Climbing (2014-09-01), IFSC Climbing World Cup Arco 2014 - Speed - Hroza Breaks World Record, retrieved 2017-05-22
- Jan Kříž (2014-09-13), NEW World speed climbing record - 5.60 seconds! WCH Gijon 2014, retrieved 2017-05-22
- International Federation of Sport Climbing (2017-05-15), FSC Climbing World Cup Nanjing 2017 - New Speed World Records, retrieved 2018-07-06
- "IFSC Speed Climbing World Record - Iuliia Kaplina at Wujiang 2013".
- "New Women's World Speed Record and Gold medal to Iuliia Kaplina".
- "Speed Climbing World Cup in China".
- "Iuliia Kaplina Sets a New Women's World Speed Record".
- "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2017".
- "Records tumble on final day of IFSC World Cup in Nanjing".
- "Kaplina Sets New World Record, Iran Wins First Gold".
- "IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2018".
- Goddard, Dale; Neumann, Udo (1993). Performance Rock Climbing. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books. p. 48. ISBN 0811722198.
- Fuss, Franz Konstantin; Subic, Aleksandar; Strangwood, Martin; Mehta, Ranbindra (2013). Routledge Handbook of Sports Technology and Engineering. Oxon: Routledge. p. 277. ISBN 9780415580458.
- Speed Climbing!: How to Climb Faster and Better 2nd edition, By Hans Florine, Bill Wright Published by Globe Pequot, 2004, ISBN 0-7627-3095-1, 978-0-7627-3095-7