Takashi Ozaki

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Ozaki summited Everest in 1980 via the north face

Takashi Ozaki (尾崎隆, Ozaki Takashi, September 9, 1952 – May 12, 2011(2011-05-12) (aged 58)) was a Japanese mountaineer. He is known for having made the first ascent of Mount Everest's north face and the first ascent of Myanmar's Hkakabo Razi.



Ozaki was born in Kameyama in Japan's Mie Prefecture.

On May 10, 1980 Ozaki, with Tsuneo Shigehiro, made the first full ascent of the north face of Mount Everest.[1] Later, in 1983, he made a December ascent of Everest.[2]

In 1996, Ozaki made the first ascent of Myanmar's remote Hkakabo Razi with Myanmar climber Niyma Gyaltsen.[3]

Ozaki died while descending Everest's south side at around 8600 meters.[4] He had to abort his ascent when he developed medical problems, then died during his attempt to summit Mount Everest in May 2011.[4] He is reported to have died on May 12, 2011.[4]


Takashi Ozaki was married to Frederique Gely-Ozaki, who also climbed mountains with him.[3] He had two children, daughter Sara and son Makato Ozaki.[3]

Mountaineering achievements[edit]



Makalu at sunset

See also[edit]


  1. ^ Messner, Reinhold (1989). The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent. Mountaineers Books. p. 90. ISBN 9780898865745.
  2. ^ "EverestHistory.com: Takashi Ozaki". Retrieved 2015-08-16.
  3. ^ a b c d Brookes, Stephen (1996-10-08). "First Ascent: Ozaki Summits Burma's Highest Peak".
  4. ^ a b c d "The butterfly collector is gone: Takashi Ozaki claimed by Everest". Retrieved 2015-08-15.