Takashi Ozaki

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Ozaki summited Everest in 1980 via the north face

Takashi Ozaki (尾崎隆, Ozaki Takashi, September 9, 1952 – May 12, 2011(2011-05-12) (aged 58)) was a Japanese mountaineer. He is known for having made the first ascent of Mount Everest's north face and the first ascent of Myanmar's Hkakabo Razi.

Biography[edit]

Dhaulagiri

Ozaki was born in Kameyama in Japan's Mie Prefecture.

On May 10, 1980 Ozaki, with Tsuneo Shigehiro, made the first full ascent of the north face of Mount Everest.[1] Later, in 1983, he made a December ascent of Everest.[2]

In 1996, Ozaki made the first ascent of Myanmar's remote Hkakabo Razi with Myanmar climber Niyma Gyaltsen.[3]

Ozaki died while descending Everest's south side at around 8600 meters.[4] He had to abort his ascent when he developed medical problems, then died during his attempt to summit Mount Everest in May 2011.[4] He is reported to have died on May 12, 2011.[4]

Family[edit]

Takashi Ozaki was married to Frederique Gely-Ozaki, who also climbed mountains with him.[3] He had two children, daughter Sara and son Makato Ozaki.[3]

Mountaineering achievements[edit]

Manaslu

Summits:[4]

Makalu at sunset

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ Messner, Reinhold (1989). The Crystal Horizon: Everest-The First Solo Ascent. Mountaineers Books. p. 90. ISBN 9780898865745.
  2. ^ "EverestHistory.com: Takashi Ozaki". Retrieved 2015-08-16.
  3. ^ a b c d Brookes, Stephen (1996-10-08). "First Ascent: Ozaki Summits Burma's Highest Peak".
  4. ^ a b c d "The butterfly collector is gone: Takashi Ozaki claimed by Everest". Retrieved 2015-08-15.