Tengkolok
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Tengkolok, also known as destar, setanjak/tanjak, and setangan kepala,[1] is a traditional Malay male headgear. It is made from long songket cloth folded and tied in particular style (solek). Nowadays it is rather wore in ceremonious functions, such as royal ceremony by royalties, and wedding ceremony by grooms.
Name
According to the 4th edition of Kamus Dewan, the terms "tengkolok", "destar", and "setanjak"/"tanjak" are synonyms; the word "tengkolok" also refers to "headgear or headcover wore by women",[1] but the definition as women headgear is rarely used today.
Still, some people say that tengkolok, destar, and tanjak are different in term of cloth type or tying even though the purpose is same, that tengkolok is a headgear made from cloth of good quality and its tying has many layers and tapers to tip; "destar" has low tying and its tying layers are fewer than tengkolok; "tanjak" has tying much like tengkolok, only that its cloth is simple dan thin.[2]
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History
It is accepted that tengkolok was made as early as Malacca Sultanate. Before that time, commoners were obliged to cover their head or to tie their long hair, becoming more neat and tidy when seeking an audience with sultan. Malaccan Malays managed to use a long rectangular cloth, folded and tied into a kind of neat headgear, wearing it in formal affairs. This cloth tying became more beautiful as the time goes, modified and adapted depending on the status of its dressy.[3]
Solek
Tengkolok is made in various forms, with different types and design of cloth, depending on the social status of its dress.[4] The general term for different forms of tengkolok is "solek". Each different solek also has its special name, for instance: the tengkolok worn by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during coronation ceremony since the time of independence is known as "Solek Dendam Tak Sudah" (Persistent Vengeance Style).
Every Malay king has their particular solek. For example, Sultan of Selangor wears a richly golden yellow "Solek Balung Raja" (Royal Crest Style) when attending a coronation ceremony or his birthday ceremony.
Note
- ^ a b Carian tengkolok di Pusat Rujukan Persuratan Melayu, Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka. Dicapai pada 3 Mac 2011.
- ^ Stanjak, Tanjak, Destar, Tengkolok, Gemala Kasturi (blog), 11 Julai 2010. Diambil pada 3 Mac 2011.
- ^ Warisan Budaya Malaysia: Pakaian dan Perhiasan Masyarakat Melayu – Perhiasan Kepala, Perpustakaan Negara Malaysia. Diambil pada 3 Mac 2011.
- ^ Tanjak Warisan Melayu, Resam Melayu. Diambil pada 3 Mac 2011.