Tony Streather

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Lieutenant Colonel (Retired) Harry Reginald Anthony "Tony" Streather OBE [1](born 24 March 1926) is a former British army officer who served in the Gloucestershire Regiment, and mountaineer who first-ascended Tirich Mir and Kangchenjunga.

Military career[edit]

Streather was originally commissioned into the Indian Army where he saw service towards the end of the Second World War.[2] He transferred to the Gloucestershire Regiment in 1947 and was immediately awarded his 'war rank' of Lieutenant.[3] He promoted to Captain in 1953 [4] and to Lieutenant Colonel in 1967.[5] In the 1965 New Year Honours he was appointed a Member of the Order of the British Empire [6] and in the 1977 New Year Honours he was promoted to Officer of the Order of the British Empire.[1]

Mountaineering achievements[edit]

As a captain posted to the Chitral region of Pakistan, Streather was the official government representative in a Norwegian expedition that made the first ascent in 1951 of Tirich Mir (7,710 m), the highest mountain of the Hindu Kush. He was initially appointed transport officer, but became a member of the successful summiting team.[7] On his return to Britain he was invited to join the Alpine Club (he later became its president), and was selected for trials for the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.[7] He was rejected for the latter because of a lack of technical experience, but nearly at the same time was invited to join the 1953 American Karakoram Expedition, which attempted a far more technical route up K2, the second highest mountain in the world. Though again originally in charge of logistics, he climbed as high as anyone else and was involved in the dramatic events at 7,800 m.[8]

In 1955, Streather participated in the first ascent of Kangchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world. With Norman Hardie, he reached the summit the day after the first summit party of Joe Brown and George Band. In 1957 he survived an epic near-ascent of Haramosh (7,397 m).[9] In 1959 he led a successful expedition that included an ascent of on Malubiting Southeast (6,970).[10]

In 1976 Streather led the Joint British Army, Royal Nepalese Army Everest expedition, which successfully put two British Army climbers on the summit: Bronco Lane and Brummie Stokes.[11]


  1. ^ a b "No. 47102". The London Gazette (Supplement). 31 December 1976. p. 6. 
  2. ^ "No. 38117". The London Gazette (Supplement). 7 Nov 1947. p. 5238. 
  3. ^ "No. 38242". The London Gazette (Supplement). 23 March 1948. p. 2009. 
  4. ^ "No. 39805". The London Gazette (Supplement). 20 March 1953. p. 1653. 
  5. ^ "No. 44357". The London Gazette (Supplement). 4 July 1967. p. 7384. 
  6. ^ "No. 43529". The London Gazette (Supplement). 1 January 1965. p. 7. 
  7. ^ a b Jim Curran, Army Dreamer....... A Portrait of Tony Streather
  8. ^ McDonald, Bernadette (2007). Brotherhood of the Rope: The Biography of Charles Houston. The Mountaineers Books. p. 122. ISBN 9780898869422. 
  9. ^ Barker, Ralph (2006). The Last Blue Mountain. Ripping ISBN 1-904466-30-3. 
  10. ^ H. R. A. Streather: Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma Region, Karakoram. In: American Alpine Journal 1961, S. 413f. (AAJO)
  11. ^ Day, M. W. H. (1979). Mehta, Soli S., ed. "Everest, 1976". Himalayan Journal. 35. Retrieved 23 March 2016. 

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