Torre Egger
| Torre Egger | |
|---|---|
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 2,685 m (8,809 ft) |
| Coordinates | 49°17′34″S 73°05′54″W / 49.29278°S 73.09833°W |
| Geography | |
| Location | Patagonia, Argentina, Chile (disputed)[1] |
| Parent range | Andes |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | February 1976: Bragg, Donini, Wilson (USA) |
| Easiest route | rock/snow/ice |
Torre Egger is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile,[1] west of Cerro Chalten (also known as Fitz Roy). The peak is between Cerro Torre, the highest in a four mountain chain[2] and Cerro Stanhardt.
First ascent
In 1976, John Bragg, Jim Donini and Jay Wilson from the United States climbed Torre Egger by climbing first to the col between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.[3]
Other ascents
- 1986 Psycho Vertical (Southeast Face) (UIAA ED+ VII+ A3 90deg, 950m) Janez Jeglic, Silvo Karo, Franc Knez (Yugoslavia), December 7, 1986.[4]
- 1987 Titanic (East Pillar) (UIAA VI+ A2), Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi (Italy), November 2 to 5, 1987.[5]
- 1994 Badlands (YDS VI 5.10 A3 WI4+, 1000m) Conrad Anker, Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding (USA), FA 12 December 1994.[6]
In January 2008, Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley made the first complete traverse of the entire massif, climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre together. They rate their route at Grade VI 5.11 A1 WI6 Mushroom Ice 6, with 2,200 m (7,200 ft) total vertical gain. This had been "one of the world's most iconic, unclimbed lines", first attempted by Ermanno Salvaterra.[7]
References
- ^ a b From Rodrigo Jordan, "Cerro Torre", in World Mountaineering, Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press, ISBN 0-8212-2502-2, p. 156: Cerro Torre rises "on the border between Chile and Argentina." However Chile and Argentina have long-standing border disputes.
- ^ Torre Egger 2005, Huberbuam
- ^ Bragg, John (1977). "Torre Egger". American Alpine Journal. 21 (51). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 49–56. ISBN 978-0-930410-31-5.
{{cite journal}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter:|coauthors=(help) - ^ Karo, Silvo (1988). "Torre Egger's Southeast Face". American Alpine Journal. 30 (62). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 49–51. ISBN 978-0-930410-33-9.
{{cite journal}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter:|coauthors=(help) - ^ Orlandi, Elio (1988). "The Eastern Pillar of Torre Egger". American Alpine Journal. 30 (62). New York, NY, USA: American Alpine Club: 52–55. ISBN 978-0-930410-33-9.
{{cite journal}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter:|coauthors=(help) - ^ "Cerro y Agujas del Cordon Torre". Climbing in Patagonia. Retrieved 2009-05-27.
{{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter:|coauthors=(help) - ^
Garibotti, Rolando (September 2008). "The Torre Traverse". Alpinist. 2008 (25). Jackson, Wyoming, USA: Alpinist Magazine: 52–59.
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