Uli Biaho

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
Uli Biaho Peak
اولی بیاہو
Uli Biaho Tower.jpg
Uli Biaho Tower
Highest point
Elevation Peak:  6,417 m (21,053 ft)
Tower: 6,109 m (20,043 ft)
Prominence 509 metres (1,670 ft)
Listing List of mountains in Pakistan
Coordinates 35°44′N 76°07′E / 35.733°N 76.117°E / 35.733; 76.117Coordinates: 35°44′N 76°07′E / 35.733°N 76.117°E / 35.733; 76.117[1]
Geography
Uli Biaho Peak  اولی بیاہو‎ is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Uli Biaho Peak  اولی بیاہو‎
Uli Biaho Peak
اولی بیاہو
Location in Pakistan
Uli Biaho Peak  اولی بیاہو‎ is located in Pakistan
Uli Biaho Peak  اولی بیاہو‎
Uli Biaho Peak
اولی بیاہو
Location in Pakistan
Location Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent range Karakoram, Baltoro Glacier

Uli Biaho (Urdu: اولی بیاہو‎) is a mountain near Trango Towers and Baltoro Glacier in the Gilgit–Baltistan area of Pakistan. It consists of two main peaks, Uli Biaho Tower (listed by Roskelley as 19,957 feet, and by Kopold as 6,109 metres or 20,043 feet); and Uli Biaho Peak (Kopold: 6417 m), which as of 2006 was unclimbed.[2]

Uli Biaho Tower was climbed alpine-style via the direct East Face by John Roskelley et al. All four US climbers reached the summit on July 3, 1979.[3] Roskelley included a chapter on Uli Biaho in his 1993 book Stories Off the Wall.[4]

Notable ascents[edit]

  • 1979 - Uli Biaho Tower (19,957 feet) - East Face - VII F8 A4 (34 pitches). June 24 - July 5, 1979 - John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Ron Kauk and Bill Forrest.[5]
  • 1988 - Uli Biaho Tower - Pilone Sud (6b, A3, 800 м) 17, June 19–21, 1988 - Maurizio Giordani, Roberto Manfrini, Maurizio Venzo, Kurt Walde.[6]
  • 2006 - Uli Biaho Tower (20,058 feet or 6109 m) - Drastissima VI/6 ABO (Northwest Face). June 23–25, 2006 - Gabo Cmarik and Jozef 'Dodo' Kopold (Slovakia).[7][8]
  • 2013 - Uli Biaho Tower - West Face 6a/6b, 1 aid pitch (18 pitches), the rest free climbing on sight in one day and half, July 21, 2013 - Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach.[9]
  • 2013 - Uli Biaho Tower - East Face - Russian Roulette (1,900m 6c+ A2) - August 8–14, 2013 - Denis Veretenin and Evgenii Bashkirtcev[10][11]

See also[edit]

References[edit]

  1. ^ "Uli Biaho Peak". Peakbagger.com. Retrieved 2013-07-27. 
  2. ^ Kopold, Dodo (Nov 27, 2006). "Uli Biaho Tower". Alpinist Magazine Climbing Notes. Height of Land Publications. Retrieved 2009-09-30. 
  3. ^ Roskelley, John (1980). ""The Obvious Line" - Uli Biaho". American Alpine Journal. Golden, Colorado: American Alpine Club. 22 (53): 405–416. ISBN 978-0-930410-76-6. 
  4. ^ Roskelley, John (1993). Stories Off the Wall. Seattle, Washington: Mountaineers Books. ISBN 978-0-89886-609-4. 
  5. ^ AAJ 1980 op. cit.
  6. ^ http://www.climbandmore.com/climbing,593,0,1,mountains.html
  7. ^ MacDonald, Dougald (July 26, 2006). "Slovaks Climb Huge Ice Line on Uli Biaho". Climbing Magazine Hot Flashes. Skram Media LLC. Retrieved Sep 30, 2009. 
  8. ^ Kopold / Alpinist Magazine 2006 op. cit.
  9. ^ "Uli Biaho Tower - West Face - 2013". Himalaya Masala. August 1, 2013. Retrieved August 10, 2013. 
  10. ^ http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=6423
  11. ^ http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=6457