Veikka Gustafsson

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Eero Veikka Juhani Gustafsson, known as Veikka Gustafsson (born 14 January 1968) is a Finnish mountaineer who has ascended all 14 eight-thousanders in the world without the use of supplemental oxygen. In 1993 Gustafsson became the first Finnish person to have reached the top of Mount Everest. In the spring of 1997, he also became the first Finn to have reached the summit without the use of bottled oxygen.

8000 m+ mountains summited[edit]

Other notable ascents/attempts[edit]

In the Alps:

  • Frendo ridge
  • Bonatti pillar
  • Les Courtes, north wall (Swiss route)

In the Pamir:

In the Himalayas:


  • Mount Vinson (4892 m), winter 1996. The tallest mountain in Antarctica.
  • Four first ascents on the Antarctica, winter 1997. Summited Mount Gardner (4587 m) and an unnamed peak, later unofficially named Mount Sisu (4300 m).


In 2008 Mid-July Veikka Gustafsson and Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio attempted Gasherbrum I (8068m), but the two were forced to abort the summit bid just before 100m due to bad weather (snowstorm; total whiteout)[1]

Finally on 2009-07-26 Veikka Gustafsson prevailed in a second attempt, along with Japanese climber Kazuya Hiraide and Bulgarian climbers Nilolay Petkov, Doychin Boyanov, Boyan Petrov and Nikolay Valkov.[2]

He previously climbed mountains with Ed Viesturs who in 2005 became the first American to climb all 14 of the world's 8000 meter peaks.

See also[edit]