East Face, Yerupajá, May 2006
|Elevation||6,635 m (21,768 ft)|
|Prominence||2,028 m (6,654 ft)|
|Location||Peru, Ancash Region|
|Range||Andes, Waywash mountain range|
|Easiest route||glacier/snow/ice climb|
Yerupajá is a mountain of the Waywash mountain range in west central Peru, part of the Andes. At 6,635 metres (21,768 ft) (other sources: 6,617 m (21,709 ft)) it is the second-highest in Peru and the highest in the Waywash mountain range. The summit is the highest point in the Amazon River watershed, and was first reached in 1950 by Jim Maxwell and Dave Harrah, and its northern peak (Yerupajá Norte) in 1968 by the Wellingtonian Roger Bates and Graeme Dingle.
The mountain's local name is El Carnicero, which means The Butcher. This name refers to the knife-edge-sharpness of its summit ridge, and possibly to the climbers who have died trying to climb it. Many visitors consider Yerupajá to be the most spectacular peak in South America.
There have been only a few successful ascents of the peak because it is one of the hardest Andean high peaks to climb. The most popular route is the southwest face. The approach is normally made from Huaraz southwards via Chiquián and Hawaqucha.
- 1950 Southern flank of West Face FA[clarification needed]of peak by David Harrah and James Maxwell.
- 1966 Direct West Face 2nd ascent of peak, FA of route over 13 days by Leif Patterson and Jorge Peterek.
- 1968 Northeast Face FA of route by Chris Jones and Paul Dix (summit, July 30), supported by Dean Caldwell and Roger Hart (all US).
- 1969 East Face by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler.
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