Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup | |
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![]() Jongwon Chon KOR, winner of the World Cup 2017 | |
Location | ![]()
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Dates | 7 April – 19 August 2017 |
Champions | |
Men | ![]() |
Women | ![]() |
The 2017 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 19th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were being held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 7 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 19 August at the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Shauna Coxsey won the women's World Cup and Jongwon Chon won the men's World Cup.
Changes from the previous season
[edit]For the 2017 season the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. Beginning in 2017 any attempt would only be considered successful if the athlete had reached the top and demonstrated control over it within the four minute time limit. (four minutes dead rule) Previously boulderers had four minutes per boulder, but a boulderer was allowed to finish their attempt if they had successfully started the boulder within the four minute limit. (four minutes plus rule) [1]
Streaming controversy
[edit]Before the start of the 2017 season the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports,[2] which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people,[3] and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made".[3] On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.[4]
Overall ranking
[edit]![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/27/Boulder_Worldcup_2017_winners_saison_men_0658.jpg/220px-Boulder_Worldcup_2017_winners_saison_men_0658.jpg)
![](http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/2/21/Boulder_Worldcup_2017_winners_saison_women_0636.jpg/220px-Boulder_Worldcup_2017_winners_saison_women_0636.jpg)
Men
[edit]Rank | Name | Points |
---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
453 |
2 | ![]() |
404 |
3 | ![]() |
399 |
4 | ![]() |
372 |
5 | ![]() |
327 |
6 | ![]() |
278 |
7 | ![]() |
235 |
8 | ![]() |
232 |
9 | ![]() |
201 |
10 | ![]() |
186 |
Women
[edit]Rank | Name | Points |
---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
560 |
2 | ![]() |
470 |
3 | ![]() |
381 |
4 | ![]() |
377 |
5 | ![]() |
290 |
6 | ![]() |
234 |
7 | ![]() |
227 |
8 | ![]() |
190 |
9 | ![]() |
187 |
10 | ![]() |
165 |
National teams
[edit]Country names as used by the IFSC
Rank | Name | Points |
---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
2118 |
2 | ![]() |
929 |
3 | ![]() |
927 |
4 | ![]() |
736 |
5 | ![]() |
715 |
6 | ![]() |
694 |
7 | ![]() |
608 |
8 | ![]() |
548 |
8 | ![]() |
368 |
10 | ![]() |
340 |
Meiringen, Switzerland (7–8 April)
[edit]Women
[edit]78 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Shauna Coxsey (4t10 4b8) won the competition in front of Katharina Saurwein (2t6 3b13).[5]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t10 4b8 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
2t6 3b13 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
1t2 3b6 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t3 3b3 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
1t3 2b3 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
0t 2b4 | 47 |
Men
[edit]115 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Kokoro Fujii (1t1 3b6) won the competition in front of Alexey Rubtsov (1t2 2b8).[5]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
1t1 3b6 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
1t2 2b8 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
1t3 2b12 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t5 3b7 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
0t 2b3 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
0t 1b4 | 47 |
Chongqing, China (22–23 April)
[edit]Women
[edit]42 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Janja Garnbret (4t11 4b7) won the competition in front of Shauna Coxsey (3t4 4b5).[6]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t11 4b7 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t4 4b5 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
3t13 4b13 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t3 3b6 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
1t3 3b8 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
1t4 3b7 | 47 |
Men
[edit]77 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Jongwon Chon (4t6 4b5) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2t2 3b3), who claimed the second place over Alexey Rubtsov by virtue of his better semi-final score.[6]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t6 4b5 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
2t2 3b3 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
2t2 3b3 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
2t3 3b3 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
1t1 3b4 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
1t4 3b8 | 47 |
Nanjing, China (29–30 April)
[edit]Women
[edit]50 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Shauna Coxsey (4t12 4b12) won her second World Cup competition of the season. At this point Coxsey and Nanjing runner-up Janja Garnbret (3t7 3b7) were the only two athletes to have made the final of all World Cups of the season.[7]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t12 4b12 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t7 3b7 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
2t6 4b15 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t5 2b11 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
0t 3b8 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
0t 1b3 | 47 |
Men
[edit]83 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Keita Watabe (4t9 4b8), the only athlete in all World Cup finals of the season at this point, won his first World Cup competition. Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 4b7) came in second.[7]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t9 4b8 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t6 4b7 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
2t5 3b5 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t1 3b8 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
0t 3b3 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
0t 3b4 | 47 |
Hachioji, Japan (6–7 May)
[edit]Women
[edit]54 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji, Tokyo. Janja Garnbret (4t5 4b4) won her second World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won the silver medal.[8]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t5 4b4 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
4t9 4b9 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
3t4 4b5 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
2t2 3b3 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
2t6 4b12 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
1t1 3b5 | 47 |
Men
[edit]84 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji. Alexey Rubtsov (3t8 4b13) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t9 4b19), who had his third consecutive silver medal finish.[8]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
3t8 4b13 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t9 4b19 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
2t5 3b6 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t1 4b8 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
1t2 3b5 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
1t3 4b9 | 47 |
Vail, United States (9–10 June)
[edit]Women
[edit]55 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Shauna Coxsey (4t5 4b4) won her third World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won silver again. For the first time this season Janja Garnbret did not reach the final.[9]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
3t4 4b5 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t6 4b6 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
3t7 4b7 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
3t10 4b10 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
1t3 2b4 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
0t 1b2 | 47 |
Men
[edit]59 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Jongwon Chon (4t9 4b8) won the World Cup in front of Meichi Narasaki (3t6 3b5).[9]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t9 4b8 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t6 3b5 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
3t11 4b7 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
2t5 3b8 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
2t6 4b10 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
1t3 1b3 | 47 |
Navi Mumbai, India (24–25 June)
[edit]Women
[edit]41 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Shauna Coxsey (4t11 4b8) won her fourth World Cup of the season, thereby securing the overall seasonal title. Miho Nonaka (3t7 4b11) came in second.[10]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t11 4b8 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t7 4b11 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
2t3 3b7 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t3 3b4 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
0t 3b6 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
0t 1b5 | 47 |
Men
[edit]58 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Jongwon Chon (4t10 4b10) won the World Cup in front of Rei Sugimoto (3t6 3b4). This left Chon, Rubtsov, and Watabe with a chance to claim the overall title at the final World Cup of the season in Munich.[10]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t10 4b10 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t6 3b4 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
3t9 3b8 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t1 3b9 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
1t1 3b11 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
1t1 2b2 | 47 |
Munich, Germany (18–19 August)
[edit]Women
[edit]114 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (3t10 3b6) won her second World Cup of the season, thereby securing the second place overall. Shauna Coxsey (2t2 2b2) won the Silver medal. She had locked up the overall title before the Munich competition already.[11]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
3t10 3b6 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
2t2 2b2 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
1t1 2b4 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
1t3 3b9 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
1t3 2b4 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
0t 1b4 | 47 |
Men
[edit]166 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Germany's Jan Hojer (4t10 4b6) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 3b3). However, Narasaki's four second places over the course of the season were not enough to defend his overall title. The overall title went to Jongwon Chon, who had come in fourth in Munich.[11]
Rank | Name | Score | Points |
---|---|---|---|
1 | ![]() |
4t10 4b6 | 100 |
2 | ![]() |
3t6 3b3 | 80 |
3 | ![]() |
3t7 3b4 | 65 |
4 | ![]() |
2t3 3b4 | 55 |
5 | ![]() |
2t4 3b4 | 51 |
6 | ![]() |
2t9 2b6 | 47 |
References
[edit]- ^ "New IFSC 4 minute rule: from hero to zero". Siked!. 3 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ "IFSC and FloSports Sign Online Streaming Deal". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 April 2017. Archived from the original on 24 April 2018. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes' Commission". OnBouldering.com. 11 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ "Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal". OnBouldering.com. 12 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Meiringen Bouldering World Cup 2017 Results". OnBouldering.com. 8 April 2017. Retrieved 23 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Janja Garnbret and Jongwon Chon claim the gold in Chongqing". OnBouldering.com. 23 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Results Nanjing Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 30 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Results Hachioji Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 7 May 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Results Vail Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 11 June 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Coxsey and Chon take the gold in Navi Mumbai. Coxsey has secured the overall title". OnBouldering.com. 25 June 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
- ^ a b "Results Munich Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 19 August 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.