Tomoa Narasaki
Personal information | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Nationality | Japanese | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Born | Utsunomiya, Japan | June 22, 1996|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Occupation(s) | Professional sport climber and boulderer | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Height | 170 cm (5 ft 7 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Weight | 58 kg (128 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Spouse | Akiyo Noguchi (m. 2021) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Type of climber | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ape index | +10 cm (4 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Highest grade |
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Known for | IFSC World Cup and World Champion winner | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Medal record
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Updated on June 9, 2019 |
Tomoa Narasaki (楢﨑 智亜 Narasaki Tomoa, born June 22, 1996) is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in bouldering and competition bouldering.
Early life[edit]
Narasaki started climbing at age 10, together with Sachi Amma, in Sachi's family climbing gym. Previously, he had been training apparatus gymnastics.[1]
Climbing career[edit]
Competition climbing[edit]
Narasaki won the IFSC World Championships in bouldering in 2016 and 2019, and was also the overall winner of the IFSC Climbing World Cup for bouldering in 2016 and 2019.[2]
Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for competition speed climbing with a time of 5.73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition.[3] He devised the "Tomoa skip", a speed climbing technique to bypass one of the lower holds on the speed climbing wall.[4]
In 2019, Narasaki qualified for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics by winning gold in the IFSC Climbing World Championships.[5] He placed fourth in the Olympic combined event.[6]
Narasaki qualified for the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing third in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships.[7]
Bouldering[edit]
On December 1, 2019, Narasaki became the sixth climber to flash a V14 (8B+) grade boulder after sending Decided in Mizugaki, Japan, on his first attempt.[8] In 2021, Narasaki sent Asagimadara V15 (8C) on his third attempt.[9] In December 2023, he flashed Gakidō, originally graded V16 (8C+), although Narasaki gave the boulder a grade of V14 after his send. Narasaki subsequently made the first ascent of the sit start to the climb, which he named Ashuradō and graded V15.
Personal life[edit]
On December 25, 2021, Narasaki and fellow Japanese climber Akiyo Noguchi announced their marriage on their respective social media pages.[10]
Narasaki's younger brother, Meichi Narasaki, is also a professional climber.[11]
Rankings[edit]
Climbing World Cup[12][edit]
Discipline | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 52 | - | - | - | 15 | 16 | 20 | 32 | - | - |
Bouldering | - | 26 | 30 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 1 | 6 | 2 | 3 |
Speed | - | - | - | - | 84 | 52 | 44 | 59 | - | - |
Combined | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | 1 | - | - | - |
Climbing World Championships[13][edit]
Discipline | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2023 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | - | - | 13 | 4 | 5 | 12 |
Bouldering | 10 | 1 | 7 | 1 | 2 | 13 |
Speed | - | - | 21 | 22 | - | - |
Combined | - | - | 5 | 1 | - | 3 |
World Cup podiums[edit]
Lead[13][edit]
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2017 | 2 | 2 | ||
2018 | 1 | 1 | ||
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 0 | 2 | 2 | 4 |
Bouldering[13][edit]
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2016 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
2017 | 4 | 4 | ||
2018 | 1 | 2 | 1 | 4 |
2019 | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
2021 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2022 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 |
2023 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2024 | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 7 | 15 | 3 | 25 |
See also[edit]
- List of grade milestones in rock climbing
- History of rock climbing
- Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References[edit]
- ^ "Narasaski comments on his victories and is going for the Olympics". 8a.nu. Retrieved July 20, 2017.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki earns second overall World Cup bouldering title". The Japan Times. 9 June 2019. Retrieved 13 June 2019.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki Gets Personal Best in Speed Climbing". Gripped. March 8, 2021.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki raring to scale Olympic walls in sport climbing debut". Kyodo News. August 2, 201. Retrieved September 23, 2021.
- ^ Nagatsuka, Kaz (21 August 2019). "Tomoa Narasaki climbs to gold at world championships, punches ticket for 2020 Olympics". The Japan Times. Retrieved 18 July 2021.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki Olympic Results". olympics.com. Retrieved 11 April 2022.
- ^ "IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern". August 12, 2023. Retrieved August 13, 2023.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki Flashes Decided V14 in Japan". Gripped. Retrieved April 10, 2022.
- ^ "Tomoa Narasaki brings Olympic fitness to the rock: 8c boulder in the third attempt". LACRUX. Retrieved April 10, 2022.
- ^ "Japanese sport climbing stars Noguchi, Narasaki announce marriage". Kyodo News. December 26, 2021. Retrieved December 28, 2021.
- ^ "NARASAKI CONTINUES TO DOMINATE". IFSC Climbing. Retrieved 2 September 2019.
- ^ IFSC, ed. (November 18, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved November 18, 2019.
- ^ a b c IFSC, ed. (November 18, 2019). "Narasaki's profile and rankings". Retrieved November 18, 2019.
External links[edit]
- Tomoa Narasaki's profile on Adidas-rockstars.com
- Tomoa Narasaki's profile on Fiveten.com
- Japanese rock climbers
- Living people
- 1996 births
- People from Utsunomiya, Tochigi
- Asian Games medalists in sport climbing
- Sport climbers at the 2018 Asian Games
- Asian Games bronze medalists for Japan
- Medalists at the 2018 Asian Games
- Competitors at the 2017 World Games
- Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics
- Sport climbers at the 2024 Summer Olympics
- Olympic sport climbers for Japan
- IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists
- IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
- Boulder climbers
- Japanese competition climbers