Estate jewellery is previously owned jewellery and is usually of high quality. Estate jewellery may come from many time periods and is often confused with antique jewellery, which is jewellery that is at least 100 years old. Antique jewellery may be estate jewellery, but not all estate jewellery is antique jewellery.
- 1 Periods of estate jewellery
- 1.1 Georgian Jewellery (1714–1837)
- 1.2 Early Victorian, romantic jewellery (1837–1855)
- 1.3 Mid-Victorian, grand jewellery (1856–1880)
- 1.4 Late Victorian, aesthetic jewellery (1885–1900)
- 1.5 Arts and crafts jewellery (1894–1923)
- 1.6 Edwardian jewellery (1901–1915)
- 1.7 Art Nouveau jewellery (1895–1915)
- 1.8 Art Deco jewellery (1915–1935)
- 1.9 Retro jewellery (1945–1960)
- 1.10 Art Organique jewellery (20th century - )
- 2 See also
- 3 References
Periods of estate jewellery
Periods that are usually included in "estate jewellery" are Georgian, Early Victorian, Mid-Victorian, Late Victorian, Arts and Crafts era, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco, Retro, and Art Organique.
Georgian Jewellery (1714–1837)
Georgian era Jewellery is handmade and very rare. This era often featured nature-inspired designs such as leaves and birds, and frequently included precious stones. Memento Mori Jewellery was also popular at the time. The phrase Memento Mori means "remember that you will die." Memento Mori Jewellery featured skull motifs and coffins.
Early Victorian, romantic jewellery (1837–1855)
Like jewellery of the Georgian era, early Victorian era jewellery also featured nature-inspired designs. Frequently, these designs were delicately and intricately etched into gold. Lockets and brooches were popular everyday jewellery during the early Victorian era whereas coloured gemstones and diamonds were worn during the evening.
Mid-Victorian, grand jewellery (1856–1880)
Because the Grand or Mid-Victorian era corresponded with the death of Queen Victoria’s husband, many jewellery pieces have solemn, sombre designs. Known as mourning jewellery, the pieces feature heavy, dark stones. Jet, onyx, amethyst, and garnet are frequently found in jewellery from this period. Compared to previous periods, colourful designs were found using shells, mosaics and gemstones and some would argue more creativity in the design process.
Late Victorian, aesthetic jewellery (1885–1900)
During the Late Victorian or Aesthetic period, jewellers used diamonds and feminine, bright gemstones such as sapphire, peridot, and spinel. Star and crescent designs as well as elaborate hat pins were also popular. Some scholars believe the aesthetic era began sooner, in 1875, and ended as early as 1890.
Arts and crafts jewellery (1894–1923)
Due to the Industrial Revolution, many jewellery designers rebelled during the Arts and Crafts movement, returning to intricate jewellery designs and handmade craftsmanship. It was common for jewellery of this era to be simple in pattern, being made of colourful uncut stones.
Edwardian jewellery (1901–1915)
The Edwardian period began upon the death of Queen Victoria when her son Edward became king. During this period many of the Edwardian designed pieces incorporate more expensive gems such as diamonds, emeralds and rubies in elaborate designs.
Art Nouveau jewellery (1895–1915)
Art Nouveau jewellery features natural designs such as flowers and butterflies and were generally considered "romantic." Art Nouveau was a style popular from about 1895 until World War I. The style actually began around 1875 in Paris and its influence went throughout the western world. The style died out by the end of World War I, but has often been revived. Art Nouveau jewellery follows curves and naturalistic designs, especially depicting long-haired, sensual women sometimes turning into birdlike or flower-like forms.
Art Nouveau vintage jewellery is still a source of inspiration and popular among many collectors in particular the ones with a pedigree such as the work of Rene Jules Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany.
Art Deco jewellery (1915–1935)
A stylized design which was named after the 1925 International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts, held in Paris, France. Much Art Deco design was a transition from the earlier Art Nouveau and, as with the Art Nouveau epoch, was inspired by the art of the indigenous peoples of the Americas, ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman architecture. Art Deco jewellery motifs are characterized by geometric designs, diverse combinations of colour and abstract patterns. In 1922, the opening of Tutankhamen's tomb in Egypt inspired another Egyptian revival. Influences from cubism as well as African, oriental, Persian, Islamic, Jugendstil and designs were common in Art Deco jewellery. The early 1920s' interest in Cubism and Dadaism as a new art form greatly influenced the Art Deco period. Additionally, the mysteries of the pyramids and a continuing revival of astrological studies, lent themselves to art-deco designs which in turn were incorporated in the Art Moderne period following 1930.
Art Deco style in other European countries was largely derivative, like the Italian G. Ravasco's diamond-studded geometric creations or Theodor Fahmer's later jewels. Some London jewellers, like Asprey and Mappin & Webb, produced Art Deco style confections, but these are largely unsigned, so the designers are unknown. Some British design jewellers, however, like Sibyl Dunlop, Harold Stabler and H. G. Murphy, known primarily for their Arts and Crafts pieces, produced decidedly modern jewellery.
Georg Jensen's firm in Copenhagen continued to produce silver jewellery in the Art Deco era, adding sharp geometric forms to its repertoire of stylized motifs; these in turn were imitated by a host of European jewellers.
Art-deco jewellery is one of the most sought-after jewellery categories, as demonstrated by auction results.
Retro jewellery (1945–1960)
Inspired by Hollywood, Retro jewellery is colourful, bold and elaborate. Most commonly worn were large cocktail rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces and charm bracelets.
Art Organique jewellery (20th century - )
A nature-inspired and more abstract geometric design within the art of jewellery design inspired by the sciences, especially ecology, structural biology and mathematics. The style is characterized by continuity, flow, and movement as expressed in distinctly three-dimensional forms. According to the philosophy of the style, art should reflect man and nature. The goal is to understand nature’s underlying ‘spirit’ rather than merely copy natural form.
- art nouveau
- art deco
- art jewellery
- Art Organique|art organique
- Librarypoint: Rappahannock Regional Library
- Art Deco Jewelry collector guide. Interview Sotheby's, CNBC at Farlang.com (2012-09-17). Retrieved on 2012-10-14.
- Muller, T; Campbell, K. Hyperinflation Worries? Buy My Jewelry, Richemont’s Rupert Says Bloomberg News article