Estate jewellery

Estate in the term Estate jewelry does not refer to jewelry coming from the estate of the deceased but refers to the fact it was previously owned.

Periods of estate jewellery

Periods that are usually included in "estate jewellery" are Early Victorian, Mid-Victorian, Late Victorian, Arts and Crafts era, Art Nouveau, Edwardian, Art Deco and Retro.

Georgian jewellery (1714–1837)

Georgian era jewellery is very rare and handmade. Often featuring nature-inspired designs such as leaves and birds and frequently includes precious stones. Memento Mori jewellery was also popular at the time (meaning 'remember you will die') featuring skull motifs and coffins.

Early Victorian, romantic jewellery (1837–1855)

Like jewellery of the Georgian era, early Victorian era jewellery features nature-inspired designs. Frequently, these designs would be delicately and intricately etched into gold. Lockets and brooches were popular everyday jewellery during the early Victorian era whereas colored gemstones and diamonds were worn during the evening.

Mid-Victorian, grand jewellery (1856–1880)

Because the Grand or Mid-Victorian era corresponded with the death of Queen Victoria’s husband, many jewellery pieces have solemn, grave designs. Known as mourning jewellery, the pieces feature heavy, dark stones. Jet, onyx, amethyst, and garnet are frequently found in jewellery from this period. Compared to previous periods more colorful designs were found using shells, mosaics and gemstones and some would argue more creativity to the design process was applied.

Late Victorian, aesthetic jewellery (1885–1900)

During the Late Victorian or Aesthetic period, jewelers used diamonds and feminine, bright gemstones such as sapphire, peridot, and spinel. Star and crescent designs as well as elaborate hat pins were also popular. Some scholars believe the aesthetic era began sooner, in 1875, and ended as early as 1890.

Arts and crafts jewellery (1894–1923)

Due to the Industrial Revolution, many jewellery designers rebelled during the Arts and Crafts movement, returning to intricate jewellery designs and handmade craftsmanship. It was common for jewellery of this era to be simple in pattern, made of colorful, uncut stones.

Edwardian jewellery (1901–1915)

The Edwardian period started with the decease of Queen Victoria and her son Edward became king. During this period many of the Edwardian designed incorporates more expensive gems such as diamonds, emeralds and rubies in their elaborate designs.

Art Nouveau jewellery (1895–1915)

Art Nouveau jewellery features natural designs such as flowers and butterflies and were generally considered "romantic".

Art Nouveau was a style popular from roughly 1895 until World War I. The movement actually began around 1875 in Paris and its influence went throughout the Western world. The movement eventually died out by the end of World War I, but has since continued to be revived throughout the contemporary ages. Art Nouveau jewellery follows curves and naturalistic designs, especially depicting long-haired, sensual women sometimes turning into birdlike or flowerlike forms.

Art Nouveau vintage jewellery is still a source of inspiration and popular among many collectors in particular the ones with a pedigree such as the work of Rene Jules Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany.

Art Deco jewellery (1915–1935)

A stylized design which was named after the 1925 International Exposition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts, held in Paris, France. Much art-deco design was a transition from the earlier Art Nouveau and, as with the Art Nouveau epoch, was inspired by the art of the American Indian, ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman architecture. Art Deco jewellery motifs are characterized by geometric designs, diverse combinations of color and abstract patterns. In 1922, the opening of Tutankhamen's tomb in Egypt inspired another Egyptian revival. Influences from cubism as well as African, oriental, Persian/Islamic, Jugendstil and American Indian designs were common in Art Deco jewellery. The early 1920s interest in Cubism and Dadaism as a new art form greatly influenced the Art Deco period. Additionally, the mysteries of the pyramids and a continuing revival of astrological studies, lent itself to art-deco designs which in turn were incorporated in the Art Moderne period following 1930.

Art Deco style in other European countries was largely derivative, like the Italian G. Ravasco's diamond-studded geometric creations or Theodor Fahmer's later jewels. Some London jewellers, like Asprey and Mappin & Webb, produced art-deco-style confections, but these are largely unsigned, so the designers are unknown. Some British design jewellers however, like Sybil Dunlop, Harold Stabler and H. G. Murphy, known primarily for their Arts and Crafts pieces, produced decidedly moderne jewels.

Georg Jensen's firm in Copenhagen continued to produce silver jewellery in the Art Deco era, adding sharp geometric forms to its repertoire of stylised motifs; these in turn were imitated by a host of European jewellers.

Art-deco jewellery is one of the most sought-after jewellery categories, as demonstrated by auction results.

Retro jewellery (1945–1960)

Inspired by Hollywood, Retro jewellery is colorful, bold and elaborate. Commonly worn were large cocktail rings, bracelets, watches, necklaces and charm bracelets.

See also

• jewelry
• art nouveau
• art deco
• heirloom
• art jewelry