John Ewbank (climber)
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John Ewbank (1948-December 2, 2013) was born in Yorkshire, England in 1948, and emigrated to Australia at age 15. Having learned rockclimbing in his native country, he quickly became involved in the fledgling Australian rockclimbing scene, and went on to pioneer hundreds of new routes on crags around the country, particularly in the Blue Mountains in his home state of New South Wales. Many of the climbs which Ewbank put up are still regarded as classics of Australian climbing. Amongst these climbs, Janicepts (21) at Mount Piddington stood as the hardest climb in Australia for many years.
In addition to climbing, Ewbank also established Australia's first rockclimbing magazine, Thrutch. His most lasting legacy was the development of an entirely new system for grading climbs. To overcome the problems at that time with English grades being limited to Extremely Severe, and American (YDS) grades being limited to 5.9, Ewbank proposed an open ended numeric-only grading system starting at 1 and (as at December 2013) extending as high as grade 35 (in Australia) / grade 37 (worldwide). This approach to grading, known as the Ewbank System, became ubiquitous throughout Australia, New Zealand and South Africa.
Ewbank retired from active climbing in the early 1970s, though never truly gave it up. He was still involved in putting up major new routes in the Blue Mountains in the 1990s. He was still climbing in 2009, even repeating one of the few free routes on DogFace during his visit to Australia.
He died in New York City (where he had resided for many years) on December 2, 2013. He had pursued a career in music releasing 2 albums, with carpentry on the side, while living in New York.
- "John Ewbank, 1948-Dec. 2, 2013". Rockandice.com. Retrieved 2013-12-24.
- Poindexter, Joseph (1998). To the summit: fifty mountains that lure, inspire and challenge. Black Dog Publishing. p. 322. ISBN 9781579120412.
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