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La Dura Dura

Coordinates: 42°04′40″N 1°17′16″E / 42.07778°N 1.28778°E / 42.07778; 1.28778
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La Dura Dura
Roc de Rumbau cliff, Oliana, Spain. La Dura Dura is on the brightly coloured lower cliffs (the Contrafort de Rumbau), at the right-of-centre
Map showing the location of La Dura Dura
Map showing the location of La Dura Dura
LocationOliana, Spain
Coordinates42°04′40″N 1°17′16″E / 42.07778°N 1.28778°E / 42.07778; 1.28778[1]
Climbing areaRoc de Rumbau, Oliana
Route typeSport climbing
Vertical gain50 metres (160 ft)[2]
Pitches1
Grade9b+ (5.15c)
Bolted byChris Sharma
First free ascentAdam Ondra, 7 February 2013

La Dura Dura is a 50-metre (160 ft) sport climbing route on the limestone cliffs at Peramola, a village in Oliana, Spain. The route was bolted and developed by American climber Chris Sharma in 2009 who had almost given up believing he could climb it until a collaboration with Czech climber Adam Ondra led to Ondra climbing the route on 7 February 2013, followed by Sharma on 23 March 2013.

La Dura Dura became one of the first rock climbs in the world to achieve a grade of 9b+ (5.15c), and was the first consensus grade at that level (i.e. more than one climber agreed to it).[a] The route has not been repeated since Ondra's and Sharma's 2013 ascents. Being two of the leading rock climbers in the world at that time, their unique collaboration was widely followed in the climbing media.

History

American climber Chris Sharma had been pushing the standards of sport climbing, freeing Realization in 2001, the first consensus 9a+ (5.15a), and then freeing Jumbo Love in 2008, the first consensus 9b (5.15b).[3][4] Sharma bolted La Dura Dura in 2009, saying: "If you're going to spend so much time on something, the line must really be worthwhile and it's difficult to find something that is at your limit and also fits your style";[5] and also, that "it was a beautiful, if blank-looking, streak of blue and white limestone".[4] Sharma became disillusioned at the feasibility of the route due to the tiny "crimper" moves on the first 10 metres of the route,[5] and by 2011 had almost abandoned his project saying, "I figured it would be for the next generation".[3][4]

Sharma invited Czech climber Adam Ondra to see if he could solve the route, and they spent early 2012 alternating belays and ideas on how to climb it, and in particular, the first part of the route where the bouldering grade was a near 8B (V13).[5][3] The pair suspended their work until the end of that year when Ondra made five trips over nine weeks to Oliana, and eventually free climbed the route on 7 February 2013.[3] Ondra said that solving the crux 15-move bouldering problem at the start of the climb, took eight of the nine weeks.[6] Sharma did the second ascent a few weeks later on 23 March 2013.[3]

Ondra assigned a grade of 9b+ (5.15c) to La Dura Dura saying that it was harder than any other 9b (5.15b) he had done at that time, and that it was also harder than his October 2012 ascent of Change in Flatanger, Norway, which he also proposed at 9b+ (5.15c) (thus at the time making Change the world's first 9b+; however, in 2022 it was downgraded[a]).[8] Ondra said that Change suited his style better and only took him five weeks to complete, whereas La Dura Dura was "more straightforward climbing, but you really need to get everything wired 100%", and that: "I'd say that for me La Dura Dura is a better achievement because it fits my style less".[6] Sharma agreed with Ondra on the grade adding: "Well if Adam thinks it is 9b+ it probably is, he probably knows more about this grade than anybody so he's sure to be right".[5]

The route caught the climbing world's imagination and attention, not only for its technical challenges and the likelihood that any successful ascent could see a breakthrough in the world's highest climbing grade but also for the unique collaboration between what were arguably the two strongest sport climbers in the world (Sharma, the 31-year old legend, and Ondra, the 20-year old prodigy).[3][9][10] This was amplified when climbing filmmaker Josh Lowell produced a film in 2012 documenting their collaboration on the route (part of Reel Rock 7),[11] which was subsequently updated in 2013 to include their ascents (reissued in 2014 as La Dura Complete).[12][13] Both Ondra and Shama declared the collaboration to be a very positive experience with Shama saying post his March ascent: "I'd practically written the route off and when we decided to work it together he [Ondra] brought it back to life. It was a healthy process for both of us, we fed off each other's motivation and through him, I think I became a better climber myself".[5]

Route

The most technically difficult part is the first 10-metre section, which Ondra and Sharma described as "really bouldery" with 15 moves that would constitute a 9b/b+  climb on their own.[8] Ondra described this first section as requiring big reaches on crimpy holds and underclings, which lead to a "huge span rightward onto a crimp, and dyno from there onto a good hueco".[8] In all, Ondra broke this first section into four separate boulder problems, that a separated from bolt-to-bolt, with approximately four moves for each one of them, and that had respective bouldering grades of: V9 (7C), V9 (7C), V12 (8A+), V11 (8A).[8]

After the bouldering section is a 10-metre 8c+ (5.14c) section with a 4-metre climb to a kneebar, which Ondra described as "super-awkward and tricky" and "Not a proper no-hands rest, but it is possible to cool down a little".[8] After the kneebar, the next 6-metres are described as "really intense", with "a shoulder-breaking dyno into big reaches on pinches and crimps with two 'stop' moves right below the jug".[8] Both Ondra and Sharma took many falls in this section.[3] This is the halfway stage but with all the cruxes and hardest climbing completed – the final 20-meters of climbing is at 8b (5.13d).[8]

Legacy

La Dura Dura became the world's first repeated and thus confirmed 9b+ (5.15c) climb (Ondra's Change was recorded as the first 9b+, but it was not repeated until 2020 by Italian Stefano Ghisolfi who confirmed the grade);[14] and for years it was listed as the "world's hardest climb" (Ondra had said it was harder than Change),[3] until Ondra's 2017 ascent of Silence at 9c (5.15d).[15] In August 2022, French climber Seb Bouin, and climbing partner of Ondra, made the third ascent of Change and felt that the discovery of a kneebar made the grade it 9b/9b+  (5.15b/c), thus making La Dura Dura the world's first 9b+.[7]

The climbing media have speculated on why La Dura Dura had not had a third ascent (even by 2022).[15] Both Sharma and Ondra, as well as being two of the world's best climbers, are also tall climbers with notably long reaches and this may make specific parts of the lower bouldering type cruxes harder for shorter climbers; others speculate that La Dura Dura is really closer to 5.15d (9c).[16]

Outside called the effort a "near Shakesperan drama".[11] After Ondra's ascent of La Dura Dura and Change, National Geographic added Ondra to this 2013 list of "Adventurers of the Year", and noted the significance of Ondra and Sharma's collaboration as being a defining moment in the sport of rock climbing, when the title of "world's best climber" had begun to pass from one generation to the next.[10]

Ascents

La Dura Dura has been ascended by:

Filmography

  • Ondra and Shama's 2012 attempts: Lowell, Josh (director) (2012). Reel Rock 7 (Motion picture). Sender Films. Retrieved 28 December 2021.[11]
  • Ondra and Shama's 2013 ascents: Lowell, Josh (director) (2014). La Dura Complete (Motion picture). Big UP Productions. Retrieved 29 December 2021.

See also

Notes

  1. ^ a b In August 2022, French climber Seb Bouin, and frequent climbing partner of Ondra, made the third ascent of Change and felt that the discovery of a kneebar made the grade it 9b/9b+  (5.15b/c), thus making La Dura Dura the world's first 9b+.[7]

References

  1. ^ "Climbing Areas - Oliana". Climbing Away. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  2. ^ "Oliana". TheCrag. Retrieved March 14, 2018.
  3. ^ a b c d e f g h Bisharat, Andrew (27 November 2013). "Perfect Play: What It Took to Climb La Dura Dura (5.15c) – The World's Hardest Route". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  4. ^ a b c Bisharat, Andrew (29 August 2013). "La Dura Dura: Chris Sharma". prana.com. Retrieved 28 December 2021.
  5. ^ a b c d e f "Chris Sharma, the La Dura Dura interview". PlanetMountain.com. 26 March 2013. Retrieved 28 December 2021.
  6. ^ a b c "Adam Ondra... interview after La Dura Dura 9b+ at Oliana". PlanetMountain.com. 7 February 2013. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  7. ^ a b Potter, Stephen (8 August 2022). "Seb Bouin Gets Third Ascent of the World's First 5.15c". Climbing. Retrieved 18 November 2022.
  8. ^ a b c d e f g Fox, Amanda (8 February 2013). "Ondra Talks About La Dura Dura (5.15c)". Climbing. Retrieved 14 March 2018.
  9. ^ Bisharat, Andrew (7 February 2013). "Dura Dura Done". Eveningsends.com. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  10. ^ a b Cahall, Fitz (13 November 2013). "Adventurers of the Year: Climber Adam Ondra". National Geographic. Retrieved 21 June 2022.
  11. ^ a b c Bisharat, Andrew (6 September 2022). "The 20 Best Climbing Films of All Time". Outside. Retrieved 18 October 2022. Number 6. Reel Rock 7 (2012)
  12. ^ "La Dura Complete: The Full Story Of The Hardest Rock Climb In The World". Climbing. 26 March 2014. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  13. ^ "La Dura Dura Complete: Footage of Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma Sending the World's Hardest Route". Rock & Ice. 28 March 2014. Retrieved 27 December 2021.
  14. ^ "Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Change, world's first 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway". PlanetMountain.com. 29 September 2020. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  15. ^ a b "Hardest Climbs In The World: Highest Climbing Grades + Routes". ClimberNews.com. 29 March 2021. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  16. ^ Burgman, John (6 December 2017). "Opinion: Why Isn't Margo Hayes Projecting La Dura Dura Yet?". Climbing. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
  17. ^ Giminez, Bernado (8 February 2013). "Ondra Sends La Dura Dura 5.15c". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 29 December 2021.
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