French polish: Difference between revisions
m Removed incorrect link to article on fads. |
m However it is also worth keeping in mind that the French polish is far more forgiving than any other finish in the sense that unlike lacquers, it can be efficiently repaired. |
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The 'fad' is commonly lubricated with an oil which is integrated into the overall finish. This helps to prevent the 'fad' from lifting previously applied layers of shellac. Which particular oil is used greatly influences the overall finish. Typically, "softer" oils, such as mineral oil, will produce a glossier and less durable finish whereas "harder" oils, such as walnut oil, will produce a more durable finish. |
The 'fad' is commonly lubricated with an oil which is integrated into the overall finish. This helps to prevent the 'fad' from lifting previously applied layers of shellac. Which particular oil is used greatly influences the overall finish. Typically, "softer" oils, such as mineral oil, will produce a glossier and less durable finish whereas "harder" oils, such as walnut oil, will produce a more durable finish. |
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In the [[Victorian era]], French polishing was commonly used on [[mahogany]] and other expensive woods, and was considered to give the best possible finish to exclusive furniture, but was very labour intensive and many major manufacturers abandoned the technique around [[1930]], instead preferring the cheaper and quicker techniques of [[Spray painting|spray finishing]] nitrocellulose [[lacquer]] and [[abrasive buffing]]. Another reason it fell from favour is its tendency to melt under low heat; for example, hot cups can leave marks on it. |
In the [[Victorian era]], French polishing was commonly used on [[mahogany]] and other expensive woods, and was considered to give the best possible finish to exclusive furniture, but was very labour intensive and many major manufacturers abandoned the technique around [[1930]], instead preferring the cheaper and quicker techniques of [[Spray painting|spray finishing]] nitrocellulose [[lacquer]] and [[abrasive buffing]]. Another reason it fell from favour is its tendency to melt under low heat; for example, hot cups can leave marks on it. However it is also worth keeping in mind that the French polish is far more forgiving than any other finish in the sense that unlike lacquers, it can be efficiently repaired. |
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==External links== |
==External links== |
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*[http://www.getwoodworking.com/techniques/frenchpolishing/ Expanation of how to make rubber and technique] |
*[http://www.getwoodworking.com/techniques/frenchpolishing/ Expanation of how to make rubber and technique] |
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*[http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/17935 French Polishing and Enamelling], by Richard Bitmead, 1910, from [[Project Gutenberg]] |
*[http://www.gutenberg.org/etext/17935 French Polishing and Enamelling], by Richard Bitmead, 1910, from [[Project Gutenberg]] |
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*[http://www.ptoone.com], by Perry Toone, Learn about French polishing from an expert.[Category:Woodworking]] |
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[[Category:Woodworking]] |
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Revision as of 13:15, 7 September 2007
French Polishing is a wood finishing technique (and not a substance, as commonly assumed) for wooden furniture that results in a very high gloss, deep colour and tough surface. It consists of applying many thin coats of shellac using a rubbing pad. The rubbing pad is made up of wadding inside a square piece of cotton and is referred to as a fad.
The process is lengthy and very repetitive. The finish is obtained through a specific combination of different rubbing motions (generally circles and figure-eights), waiting for considerable time, building up layers of polish and then spiriting off any streaks left in the surface.
The 'fad' is commonly lubricated with an oil which is integrated into the overall finish. This helps to prevent the 'fad' from lifting previously applied layers of shellac. Which particular oil is used greatly influences the overall finish. Typically, "softer" oils, such as mineral oil, will produce a glossier and less durable finish whereas "harder" oils, such as walnut oil, will produce a more durable finish.
In the Victorian era, French polishing was commonly used on mahogany and other expensive woods, and was considered to give the best possible finish to exclusive furniture, but was very labour intensive and many major manufacturers abandoned the technique around 1930, instead preferring the cheaper and quicker techniques of spray finishing nitrocellulose lacquer and abrasive buffing. Another reason it fell from favour is its tendency to melt under low heat; for example, hot cups can leave marks on it. However it is also worth keeping in mind that the French polish is far more forgiving than any other finish in the sense that unlike lacquers, it can be efficiently repaired.
External links
- French polishing in lutherie
- French polishing tutorial for guitars
- How to Apply a Traditional French Polish
- Expanation of how to make rubber and technique
- French Polishing and Enamelling, by Richard Bitmead, 1910, from Project Gutenberg
- [1], by Perry Toone, Learn about French polishing from an expert.[Category:Woodworking]]
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