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Oscar Massin

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Oscar Massin (1829–1913), visionary artist, mentor and craftsman—known as “The Diamond Reformer” [1] - created some of the 19th century’s most influential and innovative fine jewelry, radically redefining a new era for the industry at large. While Massin remains one of the least-known Parisian jewelers [2], he produced some of the most significant works of his time, many for European royalty[3]. Massin is celebrated for his patented diamond lacework technique, which uses filigree to create the illusion of woven metal. Massin is also credited with creating the first “illusory” setting [4], designed to emphasize the size of the diamond by minimizing the metal around it.

Early life

Born in Liège, Belgium in 1829 [5], Oscar Massin was trained as a jeweler from the age of 11 and educated at the Academy of Fine Arts. In 1851, he moved to Paris, then in a golden age of haute joaillerie, where Théodore Fester took him on as a bench jeweler for the next three years. To supplement his income, Massin also sketched his own jewelry designs, which caught the attention of goldsmith Léon Rouvenat, who hired Massin as his Chef d’Atelier. Massin went on to work for Viette—a renowned workshop of manufacturing jewelers—who had been commissioned to design a tiara for Empress Eugènie of France[6]. He continued to create bespoke pieces for royalty around the world.

Massin was as much a teacher as an artist[7], generously opening the door for his students and all those who followed, by sharing his original techniques and purposeful design approach. Massin considered progress a more noble cause than personal gain, never using his patents against copyists; he exhibited unfinished or deconstructed jewels solely for teaching purposes. And, in response to low payment in the trade, he set a new precedent for better living standards for all craftsmen, exhibiting his remarkable generosity of time, ideas, and support for both his community and a new generation of future artists and designers.

Career

Oscar Massin was a master draftsman and innovative designer, deeply committed to the integrity and elevation of his craft. He took pride in his capacity to work a piece of jewelry from its initial design through completion. He studied the structure and engineering of diamond settings in the service of naturalism—resulting in extraordinary pieces that celebrate light and organic growth.

In the early-to-mid 1860s, Massin began to explore new, naturalistic models featuring floral and foliate motifs with delicate, nearly invisible mounting; Massin dedicated significant time to the study of flowers, botanicals and even insects within their natural worlds in order to fully understand the intricacies of their composition, resulting in original, imaginative design.

Before opening up his own jewelry studio in 1863, Massin worked as a designer and goldsmith for many well known jewelers in Paris, including the famous Lemonnier[8].

In 1867, Massin exhibited[5] at the International Exposition of 1867 (Template:Lang-fr) for the first time under his own name. His centerpiece: a tiara designed with a diamond, ruby and emerald bandeau finished with a diamond-set feather and gem-set chains.

Massin continued to exhibit, and at the Exposition Universelle (1878), was awarded both a Grand Prix and the Legion of Honour (Template:Lang-fr)[9]. Among his exquisite creations: a three-dimensional rose pavé-set with diamonds, as well as a diamond-set belt and a tiara pairing with diamond briolettes.

For more than two decades Massin continued to design and create for the most important jewelers of his time, including Baugrand, Fontana, Sandoz and Rouvenat, Boucheron, Mellerio, Chaumet and Tiffany. Massin retired in 1891[10], leaving behind a legacy of innovation and carving a path forward for those who followed.

Massin died in his Parisian apartment on February, 13th 1913[11].

Works and Commissions

1860:

  • Tiara with brooch—wild roses[12], wheat and oats, sold to Georgian Princess Catherina Dadiani; beginning of Massin’s exploration of naturalism.

1863:

  • Eglantine branch, one of Massin’s most influential and replicated designs.

1867:

  • The first time Massin exhibited under his own name at the Exposition Universelle with his Grand parure de tête and Diadème arceaux.

1878:

  • Diamond tea rose brooch[13]
  • Diamond necklace[14], designed as a series of clusters, each set with a cushion-shaped diamond within a double border of rose diamonds, spaced by claw-set cushion-shaped diamonds and suspending a similar drop-shaped pendant.
  • Patented diamond lace, offered by the meter.

1879:

  • Medallion for King William III of the Netherlands [15], set with a rare portrait diamond engraved with a profile of the King’s head. The King presented the piece to his bride, Princess Emma.
  • Diamond belt for Nizam family[16].

1889:

  • Diamond and silver tiara for Princess Louise of Wales[17].

References

  1. ^ "Reviving a Heritage Jewelry House—This Time With Lab-Grown Diamonds". Vogue.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  2. ^ "A Former Cartier Exec Is Reviving One of France's Most Historic Jewelers". Robb Report.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  3. ^ "Oscar Massin Jewelry Revived with Sustainability Focus". Elite Traveler.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  4. ^ "Glossary of Jewelry, Timepieces & Luxury Accessories Terms". Heritage Auction.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  5. ^ a b "A Former Cartier Exec Is Reviving One of France's Most Historic Jewelers". Robb Report.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  6. ^ "Diamond brooch, Oscar Massin, second half of the 19th century". Sotheby's.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  7. ^ "Feature Highlight: Frédéric de Narp's Luximpact Revives Oscar Massin - 19th century French heritage jewelry House with focus on Sustainability". gr8tmagazine.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  8. ^ "A Former Cartier Exec Is Reviving One of France's Most Historic Jewelers". Gogmsite.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  9. ^ "Chapter 75: A History of Jewellery Design". Guity Noving.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  10. ^ "LuxImpact to revive French heritage jeweler Oscar Massin". Fashion Network.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  11. ^ "BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE". Gallica - BNF.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  12. ^ "1850s Princess Catherine Dadiani by Franz Xaver Winterhalter (Dadiani Palace State History & Architecture Museum, Zugdidi, Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti region Georgia)". gogmsite.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  13. ^ "Brooch OSCAR MASSIN". Heritage KBF.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  14. ^ "IMPORTANT DIAMOND NECKLACE, OSCAR MASSIN, LAST QUARTER OF THE 19TH CENTURY". Sotheby's.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  15. ^ "DIAMANTEN HANGER VAN EMMA". koninklijkeverzamelingen (in Dutch).{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  16. ^ "Nizam's jewels set to dazzle Delhiites". The Times of India.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
  17. ^ "THE DUCHESS OF FIFE'S DIAMOND TIARA". About the monarchy.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: url-status (link)
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