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TESTEX AG
IndustryTextile testing, certification
FoundedSeptember 22, 1846; 177 years ago (1846-09-22) in Zurich, Switzerland
Headquarters
Zurich, Switzerland
Key people
Rainer Roten (CEO)
Number of employees
> 300
Websitewww.testex.com

Testex, stylized as TESTEX, is a globally operating, independent Swiss testing and certification organisation that focuses on textile testing. The Testex corporate group is headquartered in Zurich and consists of the Testex AG, ÖTI GmbH (Austria), PT Testex (Indonesia), Swiss Textile-Testing Ltd. Hong Kong, and Testex Testing Co. Ltd. Beijing. Testex AG emerged from the "Seidentrocknungsanstalt Zurich" founded in 1846, and operates more than 20 branches[1] worldwide. Testex is the official representative of the Oeko-Tex Association in Australia, Canada, the P.R. China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, New Zealand, the Philippines, Switzerland, South Korea and Taiwan.

Operations

Analytical Testing

The analytical laboratory at Testex is ISO 17025 certified[2] and conducts a variety of analytical tests designed to detect pollutants, residues, and trace elements in textiles. Testing and auditing are also conducted in accordance with the guidelines specified by the Oeko-Tex Association. These include Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex, Step, Made in Green, Eco Passport, and the Leather Standard. The product portfolio is continually adapted according to the current market needs.

Physical and Chemical Textile Testing

Testex conducts physical and chemical tests on fibers, yarns/ strings, woven fabrics, knitted fabrics, nonwoven fabrics, and finished products. The services also include physiological tests on textile fabrics and ready-made textiles, flooring tests and the testing of personal protective equipment (PPE) in accordance with ISO 17065,[2][3] which involves various flaming tests.

Historical overview

1846-1869 Foundation of the silk conditioning institute

Present-day Testex AG was founded as the Zurich Silk Conditioning Institute in 1846. The initiative to establish the silk conditioning institute came from representatives of the Zurich silk industry.[4] Unlike the institutes in Lyon or Turin, the Zurich silk conditioning institute was not founded as a public institute, but as a public limited company instead.[5] In the case of the silk conditioning institute, the shareholders were a small group of people from the silk industry who were known to one another – merchants, bankers and manufacturers.

The reason for founding the silk conditioning institute was the intent to combat silk fraud, which was a common practice at the time.[6] Silk conditioning institutes had previously been established in both Turin and in Lyon, which had an active silk trade.[7] Especially for an expensive raw material such as silk, there was a lot of interest amongst manufacturers and merchants alike in developing a reliable standard for determing the actual dry weight. The founders of the silk conditioning institutes and Zurich’s silk industry benefited in many respects from the experiences of the existing silk conditioning institutes, for example with regard to the company’s operational processes or technical equipment.

The silk conditioning institute in Lyon had been working on improving the drying procedure since the 1820s, under pressure from the Chamber of Commerce. Joseph Léon Talabot’s numerous trials represented a real breakthrough for silk drying.[8] The silk industry in Zurich followed these technical innovations, and the silk conditioning institute began using them soon thereafter.[9]

On 1 July 1847, the silk conditioning institute started its operations. In spite of the technical retrofitting, the silk conditioning institute scarcely managed to satisfy demand. The Talabot system had significantly reduced the drying time in comparison with earlier methods. However, drying still took several hours. Furthermore, the conditioning institute frequently had to determine the commercial weight for the Basel ribbon industry. In order to relieve the pressure here at least, a branch was opened in Basel on 1 October 1849.[10] Therefore, the news of a technical refinement of the Talabot apparatus was met with great interest in the middle of the 1850s. The new apparatus, which was known under the name “Talabot-Persoz-Rogeat apparatus” met with both approval and scepticism in specialist circles.

The silk industry usually required a lot of manpower and employed thousands of people. The silk conditioning institute, on the other hand, only employed a few people. In spite of the new machine technology, the procedure was not the same in all silk conditioning institutes.[11]

By the middle of the 1850s, the institute’s core business was determining the commercial weight of raw silk.[12] In the course of the ongoing industrialisation and the development of new trading centres and markets, the Zurich silk conditioning institute faced new tasks. Unfamiliar or new procedures for the production of fibres were a constant source of new challenges for merchants and manufacturers. The idea of the "Zurich Silk Industry Association" (ZSIG) of adding a silk testing institute, i.e. an institute for textile testing, to the existing silk conditioning institute greatly extended the field of activity. In view of the increasing shortage of space in Talgasse, these plans were shelved for the timing being. This project was only taken up again in the 1870s.

1870-1919 Heyday of the silk industry

The years of high industrialisation between 1870 and 1919 were an eventful time for the silk conditioning institute in Zurich. The tightened competition in Switzerland and abroad increased the pressure on the companies to be profitable. From 1872, the institute not only checked the moisture and the weight, but also the fineness and the strength of the silk fibres.[13]

Another pillar of the Zurich silk conditioning institute evolved with expansion of the shipping service, i.e. the transportation of freight, and the expansion of the warehouse business. The increased competition in the Canton of Zurich initially brought the silk conditioning institute a rising order volume.[14] The constant growth in the production volume was made possible not least by the mechanisation of the textile industry. From the start of this period of expansion at the beginning of the 1870s, the silk conditioning institute headed into financial difficulties and soon needed a new managing director.[15]

The silk conditioning institute was also represented on a supraregional level at conventions and annual meetings of the European silk conditioning institutes. There, it primarily advocated a standardisation of the procedures and measures. Work was rationalised in the Zurich silk conditioning institute by the advancing industrialisation. The management and the administrative board pushed the continuous development of the technical facilities.[16]

Shortly before the First World War, the Zurich silk conditioning institute was the conditioning institute with the fourth highest turnover, behind Lyon, and the Milan "Società anonima Cooperativa" and "Stagionatra seta Oriani" institutes.[17] The most important export market for the Zurich silk conditioning institute at the time was England. Between 1895 and 1913, the major part of the goods had been sold on the London market, which was a very important trading centre due to the size of the British Empire.[18]

In general, the First World War triggered a large number of transformations and changes, which also had an effect on the Swiss silk industry. As a neutral state encircled by warring powers, Switzerland and its economy were dependent on trading relationships with the states that were directly involved in the war. The political events had a direct influence on the institute’s business.[19] The Swiss economy benefited temporarily from the war. But the increasing inflation of the European currencies and difficulties with regard to sales, trade and communication that were caused by the war still led to losses. There were significant cuts in the profits due to war taxes. The war had both a social and a political effect. Due to the shortage of young men on the labour market, the proportion of women employed by the institute rose significantly during the war.[20]

1920-1945 Wartime economies and the reorientation of the silk conditioning institute

Whilst there was still fighting in the battlefields of Europe, the silk conditioning institute in Zurich came under the new leadership of Gustav Siber. The textile markets were unsettled. The recession at the start of the 1920s, a result of the switch back to the peace economy, hit the Zurich silk conditioning institute.[21] After the post-war recession had been overcome, the second half of the decade was a period of prosperity for the Zurich silk conditioning institute.

The Swiss silk industry became increasingly international, a process that had started at the turn of the century. Artificial silk in particular was increasingly in competition with silk. It was important for the Zurich silk conditioning institute too. The road towards reliable testing methods and standards proved difficult. In addition to the subject of artificial silk, the testing of crêpe yarns was a topic of discussion in the mid-1920s.[22]

The conditioning institutes were repeatedly encouraged to establish uniform and practicable testing methods and customs for the problems in the industry. The Zurich institute had a laboratory which allowed it to perform quantitative analyses on crêpe silks. There were also new milestones with regard to the testing apparatures. In the 1920s, the Zurich silk conditioning institute obtained a "seriplane machine".[23] The broad stabilisation of the silk market in the mid-1920s was suddenly interrupted by the global economic crisis in 1929 and the subsequent Great Depression. The Zurich silk conditioning institute was hit hard by the sharp decline in exports.[24]

It was during this period of the worst crisis when the Zurich silk conditioning institute moved to Gotthardstrasse 61, not far from the building of the old stock exchange.[25] Between the end of the Great Depression and the Second World War, the institute established a welfare foundation in 1939.[26] After 1939, the silk conditioning institute in Zurich only benefited slightly from the improved margins that the companies were able to achieve thanks to the wartime economy.[27]

1946-1970 New markets and new challenges for the silk industry

When in 1954 the ZSIG celebrated the hundredth anniversary of its foundation, the general situation of the silk industry had changed immensely.[28] Nevertheless, the Zurich silk conditioning institute’s business went rather well after the end of the Second World War. In spite of the fact that the turnover in the silk industry largely stagnated from 1952 and fell again from the 1960s, the Zurich silk conditioning institute managed to remain profitable. This was not least because other yarns were also weighed, conditioned and tested in increasing quantities in Zurich.[29]

Completely synthetic fibres, such as nylon, experienced a rapid rise at the time. Polyamides were now also used for other items of clothing, parachutes, balloons, sails, technical textiles or ropes. The cotton industry was also able to use new finishing processes to produce materials of a high quality, which it was able to bring onto the market at a reasonable price.[30] The silk industry attempted to counter this competition with broad advertising campaigns aiming to reach a more affluent clientele.[31] The transformation from a seller’s market to a buyer’s market following the first post-war years gradually led to a reorientation of the Zurich silk conditioning institute's business.[32]

At the beginning of the 1960s, the Zurich silk conditioning institute faced numerous restructuring processes. In addition to some changes in the administrative board, the most permanent change in those years was the transfer of a large package of shares to the Zurich Silk Association (ZSIG), which thus became the largest shareholder. The members of the administrative board decided that the ZSIG should have a textile testing institute.[33] Another trend of those years, which can also be seen in the turnover of the Zurich silk conditioning institute, was the declining importance of silk. These signs of the decline of the silk industry led to a name change. Since then, the Zurich silk conditioning institute has been known as "Testex AG".[34]

1970-1981 Transformational processes

The Zurich silk conditioning institute was able to achieve a comparatively good overall result in the first year under its new name Testex AG, however, the growthshrinking process continued. Testex soon found itself on a way from an institution of the silk industry to a cross-sectoral institution and managed to comprehensively extend its portfolio in the 1970s. At the end of the 1970s, the Board of Directors aimed to expand the development work and by the beginning of the 1980s, Testex's structure and management had undergone lasting changes.[35]

1981-1993 Focus on textile testing

At the start of the 1980s, Testex was operating at a loss, in spite of the modernisation measures.[36] The Testex administrative board initially continued to struggle to keep its technical operations going and decided to undertake further personnel restructuring. That is why the decision was made to continue to invest in silk research, in public relations and advertising and in the expansion of the laboratory operations in the following years. Various measures were initiated in the 1980s with the aim of raising the profile of the company beyond the silk industry.[37] The goal was to win over potential customers from outside the Swiss silk industry and to establish Testex as an independent, neutral Swiss textile testing institute. To secure this aspiration, Testex invested large sums in cotton testing. At that time, it was already possible to test the fineness of fibres with a micronaire tester. In 1983, in collaboration with the Winterthur-based machine works “Rieter AG”, a yarn round robin test was also set up.[38]

Today, Testex also offers round robin tests for colour fastness, for fabric properties and for function. Testex’s workforce grew constantly from 1983. In the mid-1980s, Testex’s range of tests covered fibres, yarns and textile fabrics such as materials, finished products and semi-finished products made from a variety of raw materials. They could be tested at Testex according to national and international standards. The steady expansion of the testing operations and the acquisition of a lot of new equipment meant that the premises at Gotthardstrasse 61 were increasingly short of space. In view of this, Testex’s management planned a project in 1989: with an initial estimated budget of more than one million francs, the renovation of the property was to be continued and the laboratory was to be radically redesigned.[39]

At the beginning of the 1990s, Testex also developed and opened up the field of testing for harmful substances, which, in retrospect, would prove to be a ground-breaking decision.[40] Public interest in the issues of environmental and health protection have been increasing since the 1970s. The textile industry was not exempt from these processes. The use of chemical substances was integral to modern textile production. The “OEKO-TEX Association” was established in March 1992 as a response to the increased public interest and people’s desire for safe textile products. In the meantime, Testex`s management had established good relations with other textile testing institutes, not least as a result of the silk research projects.[41]

1994-2006 Entering the new millennium

In the 1990s the decision to join the OEKO-TEX Association was to pay off in the years to come. However, doing business with the other countries in Europe proved more and more difficult. In 1996 Testex marked ist 150th anniversary.[42]

In the 1990s, Testex was still achieving its highest turnover in Switzerland, followed by Europe, but a strong shift towards the Asian market began from this time onwards.[43] However, the investments appeared to pay off, further offices in Asia followed.[44]The test jobs were handled exclusively in Zurich. Consequently, there was also a very rapid rise in the number of people employed there. The demand for OEKO-TEX tests was, and still is, consistently high - and even growing - in the Asian region. Product certifications were on trend. End consumers and companies called for reliable and standardised testing systems carried out by Testex AG.

From the mid-1990s, attention was no longer concentrated solely on the textile itself. Instead, the focus was increasingly on the conditions under which the textile was produced. The “OEKO-TEX Standard 1000”, which was introduced in 1995, now incorporated additional parameters into the assessment.[45]

To manage the volume of orders, the company needed to increase the staff. At the turn of the millennium, Testex was already employing 32 people, both full-time and part-time.[46] Therefore, Testex adopted a new organisational structure at the turn of the millennium. The work increased at a fast rate. A modern infrastructure was just as important for the competitiveness of Testex as qualified staff. Testex also invested large sums in the expansion of the IT systems and in digitisation.[47]

The consistent expansion into the Far East was a key element of the corporate strategy in the early 21st century. Asia had proven to be a profitable market. As early as 2006, it became clear that Testex had taken a successful path. The growing profits endorsed the corporate strategy.[48]

2007-2021 Economic boom and global expansion

Testex is focussed on profitable growth markets. The Asian market continued to be of vital importance.[49] The Effects of the 2007 financial crisis was not as heavily reflected in Testex's business figures as it was expected.[50]

The OEKO-TEX certifications became Testex’s most important business and they focused a major part of their resources on this core business. One reason for this growth was due to increasing interest in sustainability over the 2010s.[51]

The large growth experienced by the Testex Group after the turn of the millennium placed new demands on the company management. In order to manage the increasingly high workloads and responsibilities, Testex fostered the competence and social skills of the employees. The administrative board is still the centre of strategic decision-making. To this day, Testex holds on to the distribution of responsibilities amongst the members of the Testex administrative board.[52] Large sums have continuously been invested into the modernisation of the laboratory and office premises, and the infrastructure. Another focus of the company in recent years was on the further development of the IT structures. Testex’s growth following the turn of the millennium gave another powerful boost to the development from the former silk conditioning institute to a globally operating testing and certification company.[53]

While Testex has its headquarters at Gotthardstrasse 61 in Zurich to this day, for 175 years now, Testex has grown into a group of companies who have 27 branches throughout the world in addition to the headquarters in Switzerland. Since 2010, new branches have been opened every year. The national and international expansion in the 1990s triggered a strong growth for the company and provided a basis for further important investments. The establishment of the first branch in Hong Kong can be referred to as an important step. As has already been highlighted, the automation of the testing operations and the optimisation of the processes through an extension of the laboratory capacity are still an important element of the company’s strategy. Space was needed to manage the raising order volume. As the tests still took place exclusively in Zurich and Vienna, former warehouse space in Zurich was gradually extended and converted. Finally, the renovation of the laboratory in 2010 gave Testex an extra 160 square metres of usable space in Zurich.[54] The company, which was formerly managed top down, has by now become an elevated horizontal integrated group of companies.[55]

Testex Today

Today, little remains of the silk drying institute. Testex AG is one of the largest textile testing companies in the world, and has experienced significant growth since the turn of the century. At the end of 2006, Testex AG had 66 employees,[56] whereas in 2021 the company has employed over 300 people in 30 locations worldwide.[57]

Bibliography

  • Bröcker, Kirsten, Witek, Friederike and Wagner, Till:175 years. From zurich silk conditioning institute to Testex AG. Munich: August Dreesbach Verlag 2021.
  • Fuchs, Konrad: Die „Seidenstädte“ Krefeld und Lyon. Versuch eines Vergleichs. in: Deutschland und Frankreich in der frühen Neuzeit. R. Oldenbourg Wissenschaftsverlag, München 1987.
  • Hans Jenny, Hundert Jahre Seidentrocknungs-Anstalt Zürich. 1846–1946, Zürich: Orell Füssli AG 1946 (German).
  • van de Kerkhof, Stefanie: Textilindustrie. in: Marcel Boldorf (Hrsg.): Deutsche Wirtschaft im Ersten Weltkrieg De Gruyter Oldenbourg, Berlin 2020.

References

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  2. ^ a b SAS, Swiss Accreditation Service. "Search Accredited Bodies SAS". www.sas.admin.ch. Retrieved August 14, 2017.
  3. ^ "EUROPA – European Commission – Growth – Regulatory policy – NANDO". ec.europa.eu. Retrieved August 14, 2017.
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  7. ^ Fuchs, Konrad: Die „Seidenstädte“ Krefeld und Lyon. Versuch eines Vergleichs. in: Deutschland und Frankreich in der frühen Neuzeit. R. Oldenbourg Wissenschaftsverlag, München 1987, p. 590.
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  52. ^ Bröcker, Kirsten, Witek, Friederike and Wagner, Till:175 years. From zurich silk conditioning institute to Testex AG. Munich: August Dreesbach Verlag 2021, p. 166.
  53. ^ Bröcker, Kirsten, Witek, Friederike and Wagner, Till:175 years. From zurich silk conditioning institute to Testex AG. Munich: August Dreesbach Verlag 2021, p. 171.
  54. ^ Bröcker, Kirsten, Witek, Friederike and Wagner, Till:175 years. From zurich silk conditioning institute to Testex AG. Munich: August Dreesbach Verlag 2021, p. 176.
  55. ^ Bröcker, Kirsten, Witek, Friederike and Wagner, Till:175 years. From zurich silk conditioning institute to Testex AG. Munich: August Dreesbach Verlag 2021, p. 177 f.
  56. ^ "Von der "Sidetröckni" zum Hightech-Betrieb – das Textilprüfinstitut Testex: Ist der Teddybär resistent gegen Speichel?". Neue Zürcher Zeitung (in Swiss High German). December 29, 2006. ISSN 0376-6829. Retrieved August 14, 2017.
  57. ^ "About Us". Testex. Retrieved April 4, 2022.

External links

  • Official website (in English)
  • NZZ, Die Zürcher «Siidetröchni» wird 175 Jahre alt – und ist so erfolgreich unterwegs wie noch nie (in German)
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