Red-eared slider
| Red-eared Terrapin | |
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| File:Redeared.jpg | |
| red eared couple - photo taken by Zhinous Shakibaeian | |
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| Subspecies: | T. s. elegans
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| Trinomial name | |
| Trachemys scripta elegans (Wied-Neuwied, 1839)
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The Red-eared Slider, called the Red-eared Terrapin in the UK, is the subspecies Trachemys scripta elegans of the Testudines, or Turtles order. It is native of the southern United States, but has become common in various areas of the world.
Taxonomy and evolution
Red-eared sliders are members of the order Testudines, which contains nearly 250 species. In the United States, members of this genus are usually referred to as turtles; however, in the UK they are split into Turtles (aquatic), Tortoises (land), and Terrapins (semi-aquatic).
Physical Description
It is a medium-sized aquatic animal, ranging in size from 0.8 in (2 cm) when born, to 12 in (30.5 cm) as an adult, and can be recognised by a red stripe down each side of the head and the rather oval carapace.
Lifespan
Turtles in captivity live to over 40 years old. Young turtles will have a vibrant shell color and markings. As these turtles age, shell color tends to darken and markings will fade extensively, including the "red-ears".
Sexual Dimorphism
Sexing individuals older than about a year, can best be accomplished by way of comparison. Males have very long front claws and a longer tail. Males also tend to have a concave ventral shell as compared to that of females. And when full grown, females are significantly larger than males (F: 11"-12" vs. M: 8"-9").
Diet
Red-eared sliders are omnivores, feeding on vegetation, insects, and small fish. Insects include crickets, mealworms, and bloodworms. Sometimes this turtle even eats pinkie mice. The red-eared slider tends to eat freshwater plants that grow in the water that they live in. In captivity, these turtles are often fed lettuce, shredded carrots and potatoes, and many other leafy greens. They tend to be more carnivorous when young and tend to become more herbivorous as they age. Red-eared sliders do not produce saliva; therefore they must eat while in the water.
Behavior
They are almost totally aquatic, but leave the water to bask on hot sunny days. The red-eared slider slides franticaly off rocks and logs when approached - hence the name. Throughout the day they will climb out of the water, bask until dry and warm, then dive back in to wet themselves and cool off, and then climb out to bask again.
Hibernation
The Red-Eared Sliders hibernate over the winter at the bottom of ponds or shallow lakes. They will tolerate other small animals in their habitat, but will quickly dive underwater when approached by potential predators, making them difficult to catch.
Husbandry
Like most turtles, they have a strong bite, which may result in injuries that should be seen by medical staff as soon as possible; and like all pets they may carry some diseases, such as the salmonella bacteria which may occur in newly captured reptile pets.
Care
Red eared sliders are semi aquatic turtles that are very commonly kept as pets. Unfortunately, lack of understanding what they require means that many red eared sliders have died from improper care. While they are not overly demanding as pets, many unsuspecting owners have been told that it was fine to keep them in small plastic bowls. Needless to say this housing is completely inadequate and impractical - turtle owners need to invest a fair amount in the proper equipment to house red eared sliders. With proper care these turtles can live several decades, so turtle ownership is not a committment to be taken lightly. Red eared sliders are omnivores, meaning they eat a mixture of animal and plant material. Younger turtles are more carnivorous (eat more animal protein) than adults, though. Juveniles should be fed daily, but adults can be fed every 2-3 days.
Turtles can be fed a mixture of prepared commercial food and fresh food. Special food formulated for turtles can be used, but this should only make up about 25% of the total diet. The proportions of fresh supplements will depend on the age of the turtle, but can include live feeder fish, earthworms, crickets, wax worms, blood worms, aquatic snails, fresh greens (collard, mustard and dandelion greens, and dark leafy lettuces but never head lettuce), aquatic plants, and shredded vegetables.
Handling
As a pet the red-eared slider has much in common with other turtles. It is generally alert and curious, though it can display the same pugnacious personality as other species. With frequent handling red-eared sliders can become quite tame, and will tolerate being held. Some may even seek out human contact, though it is questionable whether the turtle is intelligent enough to recognize individuals. Some turtles who do not like to be handled will hiss and start to kick at the person's hand. Whenever this occurs, put the turtle back down, and try to pick it back up later Owners should not pick up their turtle for extenmsive periods of time. This often stresses the turtle. It is more preferable to play with and handle the turtle for about fifteen minutes per day, rather then handle the turtle for an hour once every four days. Most pet sliders, whether handled or not, will beg for food when they see movement near their enclosure. A well-cared-for red-eared slider can live for up to 35 years, although a lifespan of 10-20 years is more common.
Housing
The turtle must be kept in an aquarium or other enclosure in keeping with its size. The small portable containers often sold along with a baby red-eared slider are completely inadequate even for the smallest specimen. Red-eared sliders, and most turtles in general, are good swimmers and can hold their breath for long periods of time. Sufficient water is required in the enclosure. A common rule among keepers is to have at least ten gallons of water per one inch of shell. Another way that some turtle owners prefer is as long as their turtle can not reach the top of the water while standing on its hindlegs. However, for younger turtles water level should allow the turtle to be able to stand up and reach the top of the water, for there have been cases of turtles drowning at young ages. If the turtle seems like it is drowning when the water level is increased, then it must be taken out immediately. However, even though it may appear that the turtle does not want to swim at first, it can learn quickly. A basking area on which the turtle can dry out needs to be provided. A heat lamp is also strongly recommended for indoor turtles. If a heat lamp is used indoors, turtles should have access to it for three to four hours per day. The water should be kept at a constant temperature of 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit; colder water temperatures can cause the turtle to attempt to hibernate, which is impossible in captivity, and the turtle will thus drown. Water quality with any aquatic turtle can be a serious problem. Turtle feces can accumulate quickly, and the resulting ammonia and bacterial build-up can be seriously detrimental to the animal's health. A good aquarium filter can help alleviate this problem, as can a separate feeding tank, but frequent water replacement will be needed to ensure good health. For adult turtles (who may be 8 to 12 inches in length) it is generally accepted that a 150 gallon tank will suffice. Another possibility is to keep the turtle in a backyard pond or kiddy pool as long as it is enclosed, form the sides and the top.
See also
References
- Maximilian zu Wied-Neuwied: Verzeichnis der Reptilien welche auf einer Reise im nördlichen America beobachtet wurden. Nova Acta Acad. CLC Nat. Cur. 32, I, 8, Dresden 1865 (With 7 illustrations by Karl Bodmer. Also: Frommann, Jena.)
- Maximilian zu Wied-Neuwied: Maximilian Prince of Wied’s Travels in the Interior of North America, during the years 1832 – 1834. Achermann & Comp., London 1843-1844 (Translation by H. Evans Lloyd).
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