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Irani café

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Irani cafes, only a few decades ago, used to be an indelible part of Mumbai's cosmopolitan heritage. But the competitive pressure of modern sleek coffee cafes and fast food joints have left the Irani cafes behind. Many of them have closed down or are changing into pubs and restaurants or have moved out to other cities in India.[1] The younger generation of Iranis’ with higher education and better skills have become interested in other more lucrative vocations in India and abroad, and they do not wish to carry on with the legacy of the Irani cafés of their parents. The result is that in the 1950s, there were 350 Irani cafes and today, there are only 25 left.[2] One of the most popular eating places is the 102-year-old Kyani café, a heritage landmark in south Mumbai.

History

In an article in the Indian Express on “Irani cafés: Inheritance of loss”, Naomi Lobo has traced the background of these cafes as: “When the Zoroastrian Iranians came to India in the 19th century, they had no riches and were in search of a better livelihood. Mumbai (Bombay), at that time, was already home to another Zoroastrian community, the Parsis. A couple of Iranians worked in Parsi homes as caretakers and met in the evenings to discuss the life they had left behind, and their future prospects. One evening, a man served tea to everyone and charged them a small amount. The result: A business was born, of serving tea. And this was the beginning of an Irani café.”[1]

Today

Now, Hyderabad city boasts having the largest number of Irani cafes, which are very popular for Irani Chai (Tea).

The creative menu of ‘brun maska’ (bread and butter) and ‘paani kam chai’ (a special Iranian tea with less water), or khari chai (very strong tea), Mutton Samosas, and the delicious Kheema Pavs, all fresh, delicious and unique; akuri (a scrambled egg preparation perked up with spices), fragrant Berry Pulao, vegetable puff, Veg/Chicken Dhansak (a spicy broth acclaimed for its nutritive values with lentils, pulses) and Biryani, cherry cream custard, cheese khari biscuits, coconut jam and milk biscuits and the legendary Dukes Raspberry drink are staple fare in many cafes in Mumbai. The Parsi Bhonu (meal) is available at most Irani restaurants.

Many of the Irani cafes still offer a mind-boggling and innovative spread of sweet and salted biscuits like Rawa (semolina) Coconut, Til Rawa Coconut, the traditional nan-khatai (sweet, crisp and flaky Irani biscuits), Madeira-Cake (tutti-fruity biscuits), etc.

Writing for the Hindu Business Line, on “Mumbai's Irani hotspots” [1] Sarika Mehta says: - “The classic format of these cafes is basic with a subtle colonial touch; high ceilings with black, bent wooden chairs (now cane in some cafes), wooden tables with marble tops and glass jars that allow a peek into the goodies they hold. With huge glass mirrors on the walls to create a feeling of space, visitors are greeted with eagerness and a whiff of baking. The speed of operations is impressive and service quite hassle-free.

Quirky poem

The mention of Irani cafe is incomplete perhaps without quoting a quirky Nissim Ezekiel poem based on instruction boards found in his favourite Irani café in Dhobi Talao, Mumbai. “No talking to cashier/No smoking/ No fighting/ No credit/ No outside food/ No sitting long/ No talking loud/ No spitting/ No bargaining/ No water to outsiders/ No change/ No telephone/ No match sticks/ No discussing gambling/ No newspaper/ No combing/ No beef/ No leg on chair/ No hard liquor allowed/ No address enquiry/ — By order.” [3]

Noted People

  1. Mr. Aflatoon Shokriye, second generation owner of the Kyani café Mumbai
  2. Mr. Farooq Shokri, of Kyani café Mumbai
  3. Sharook K, partner of the Sassanian Bakery and Boulangerie, Dhobi Talao, Mumbai
  4. Boman Kohinoor, the owner of the Britannia & Co restaurant and one-time partner of Bastani, Mumbai
  5. Zend M Zend, owner of Yazdani Bakery, Mumbai
  6. Mr. Sarosh Naushir Irani, Mr Bomi and Ms Perrin, of B Merwan & Co bakery, Mumbai
  7. Mr. Haji Darvez, who now runs a chain of Irani cafes in Hyderabad
  8. Mr. Ramzan Ali Jouker, owner of Madina restaurant near Charminar in Hyderabad.

Footnotes

  1. ^ a b Naomi Lobo (2007). "Irani cafés: Inheritance of loss". India Express. Retrieved 2007-12-25. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help)
  2. ^ Jayshree Bajoria (2005). "India's Iranian cafes fading out Last Updated: Wednesday, 27 April, 2005, 16:38 GMT 17:38 UK". BBC News. Retrieved 2007-12-25. {{cite web}}: Unknown parameter |month= ignored (help); line feed character in |title= at position 33 (help)
  3. ^ "Sunanda Sudhir". newsblog.aol. Retrieved 2007-12-25. {{cite web}}: Cite has empty unknown parameter: |month= (help)
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